ZMANALEX

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When your battery is dead, the battery that you are trying to jump it with is not only trying to start the car, but also charging the flat battery. So leave it hooked up for 30 minutes and then try again. However, best to just be patient and charge the battery fully. Then check the fully charged battery to make sure that it is holding its charge.

Charge the battery. A jump will not work if your battery is stone dead.

Just noticed that this is a facelift wing ( Ebisu) You require Kuro. Sorry, Alex.

Unfortunately not as I do not have any suitable boxes I am afraid mate.

Okay, then just take it out and measure it mate.

Not sure of the size, but I have replacements in stock if required.

Pointless discussion as the difference will be minuscule and as been said you won't have a compression tester capable to see the difference.

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Perhaps this is what you are looking for: 1 Protector-strage outer 1 0.002 kg / 0.004 lb 972A0CE400 '04, November — '07, January

Yes, running 200 miles with "contaminated" faces can cause DTV.

Sometimes peeps do not notice a slight wheel balance issue which can be exaggerated whilst braking through a specific speed. However, if it is not something silly then I would be leaning towards DTV. If you ran the car with the inner face of the wheels powder coated and only returned to get the PC removed after the vibration started then I would guess that it is too late. You can try another serious bed in process, but you may have to get the discs resurfaced professionally and all other surfaces cleaned up. Give Marcus a shout at: http://www.discskimmers.com/index.html

Got to be wheel balance, pad deposits or DTV. Sometimes it takes over 1000 miles for DTV to develop.

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Yes, 3 kits left in stock at the moment. Just drop me a PM if I can help further or just post up here.

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https://www.oponeo.co.uk/advice-and-tips/tyre-size-calculator#replacementsCalculator

Should be a perfect fit but will be dependant on if lowered and the size of tyre.

PM on its way mate.

PMs received and replied to.

Garages are in the business to make money. As soon as they come across a job that is more bother than it is worth, then they will body swerve it. The 350 roof faults are not the easiest to diagnose correctly and fiddly to fix. It is a specialist repair, however finding one who is prepared to take on the job may be difficult and almost impossible to find if you want an estimate. I am afraid that it is one of those jobs that will take as long as it takes so you are basically giving the garage an open cheque book.

Lock a couple of nuts on the stud and screw out to break the seal or just get the angle grinder out.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum