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About Silverthorn

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  • Birthday November 16


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  1. @davey_83 I'm quite suprised as well to be honest I can't say it was as easy getting through the gravel car park to the exit afterwards though
  2. Stupid ride height? Check. Hideously impractical? Check. God-damn awesome? Check.
  3. @davey_83 It's an 'Aircup' system rather than a conventional air ride system so I still drive the car at this height. The cups can only lift the car at speeds below 10mph so is only useful to get over a bump or something like that before returning to its usual height. Function-wise, it shares more similarities with the 'nose lift' on supercars than a conventional air ride system. It's the perfect balance between having a car stupidly low while having a little bit of practicality. Obviously I still have to drive just as careful as I did previously as the second I get to normal road speeds I'm stuck at my ridiculously low ride height it's just helpful getting to car shows and on my drive as even the bridge over the track at Silverstone was pretty awful last year, let alone what it'd be like now! Driftworks made a video about the cups which can be found here. But yes the tyres on the front have been flipped. They lasted a fair while considering the alignment is done by eye. Once the world is back to normal I plan on taking it to get the toe all sorted. Such a shame I've got it all clean now though as I'm desperate to just go somewhere on a drive and take some photos
  4. Aaaand the boot is complete. The car is now ready for the non-existent car show season
  5. With the ol' Corona kicking in over the past few days it was the perfect time to get a few jobs done on the car; first of which was of course installing the Stanceparts Aircups. The install overall wasn't too difficult, just quite time consuming if you want to do a tidy job of running the air lines, wiring etc. Also, due to an interference issue between the rear top mount studs on the chassis and the top of the aircups, you have to drill out the studs on the chassis to thru holes and press studs into the top mounts of your coilovers. This took me probably longer than it should as a lot of the drill bits i owned wouldn't even touch the stud, even the Cobalt ones! In the end i just ground the top of the stud down from inside the boot and then punched the stud out of the chassis. Then a 10mm Cobalt Drill Bit to open up the holes to 10mm for the studs. With regards to the studs i used, they were some M10 x 1.25 Wheel Studs from a Yamaha Banshee ATV that i pulled in using the corresponding nuts and some washers. Worked a treat! No idea why Nissan didn't adopt this method as they're so much easier to work with. Air lines were ran under a cover under the car alongside all of the other lines. Wiring was ran through the interior, behind the passenger seat and then through the centre console back to the boot. Absolutely 0 wires or lines visible from anywhere on the car, no matter how hard you look I originally intended to hide the tank under the boot floor but with the sub in place and a few other bits and pieces i figured it'd probably be a whole lot easier to mount it in view. I also never use the boot so the reduction in space is of no concern to me. I made a boot floor out of some 6mm MDF and traced the original carpet to generate the template. all of the other ancillaries are mounted under the floor out of view to give it a bit of a cleaner look. I'm just waiting on some carpet now to finalise the install. Overall I'm very happy with them just for the fact that i can finally park on my own drive again! Much safer than leaving the car out on the road where it'll no doubt eventually get its wing mirror knocked off by some useless driver. I'll also actually be able to get into most car shows now! It was getting a bit ridiculous owning what is essentially moving towards just being a show car when i can't even get into any shows with a slight bump... I also picked up a set of 9cm pink 326Power Wheel Nuts from a guy on Facebook. Got them for a pretty good deal and look loads better than my old rusty steel 'tuner' nuts. After all this, and to celebrate being able to park in my own drive, i thought I'd bring out my new DAS -6 PRO Plus Machine Polisher to give it a quick go. It's amazing what a difference the upgrade has made. This, partnered with some 'Hex-logic' pads and Menzerna Compounds has done wonders for the paint. A good few hours were spent on the bonnet and wings alone and they came out close to flawless. My old machine polisher was great for making a car shiny but when it came to actually removing some of the deeper scratches it wouldn't cut it (excuse the pun ). After using the DAS and inspecting the paint under a small LED torch the amount of visible scratches have reduced by around 90-95%. Very pleased! ^ I didn't bother polishing the front bumper as it's in a sorry state at the moment and needs to be resprayed, again. But check out that FITMENT!
  6. Nothing hugely interesting but i figure some people may be interested. Just re-insured with Greenlight for £899 (£315 cheaper than Flux), fully declared at only 22yo. I've FINALLY dropped into the sub-£1k bracket! Happy days! I've now went and celebrated by finally purchasing a set of StanceParts Aircups from Driftworks for the front & rear of the car. I might finally be able to get into car shows that aren't as smooth as a bowling green. So you know what this all means; time to go looooower I did also grab this quick shot of the car in Cabot Circus the other evening. Looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself
  7. Silverthorn

    9.5 j wheels help

    A 245/40 up front with a 275/35 rear will give equal sized sidewalls so might not be a bad idea imo. I assume, based on the 245/40's, that the fronts are 8.5J?
  8. As per usual, another impractical mod has been made to the car... The 25mm spacer I had on the front had a small crack so wanted to sort a replacement. A friend of mine has a pair of 50mm spacers sat around that I could have so instantly started trying to squeeze them on the front. A week or so later and I've made a jig and chopped 30mm out of the Hardrace UCA's so that I can get enough camber to tuck the tyre inside the arch All welded back up and resprayed in black. Not a single issue so far and it has shifted the range of adjustment to what I'd actually use so win win. No need for me to fork out 1k for some T Demand Arms now I've also chopped up and fitted some sideskirt canards to the rear bumper just to try and continue the line of the aero along the side of the car. It's definitely helped a bit but the rear still needs a bit of work imo. It's just not aggressive enough! In an ideal world I'd get the Fly1 Diffuser but 1k for some fibreglass is outrageous imo so I'll no doubt look to replicate it myself some other way. Popped up to Leicester this weekend just gone to see a few friends through work, one of which is pretty keen on his photography and wanted to take a couple of photos of the car. They came out pretty awesome imo. Loving the look of it now especially in that second shot, damn @: seth_pargeter @: landscrapes_foto
  9. Was hoping you'd set up another project thread once I found out you'd purchased this. Looking forward to seeing how it progresses; no doubt it'll be just as awesome as the 350
  10. @Umster Cheers for your input mate I am leaning towards the K-Sport kit I think. In the grand scheme of things they're not that expensive in comparison to going discs alone so they'll most likely be worth it in the long run. I'd imagine I'll go with the 6-pot 356mm version just to be on the safe side clearance wise. They'll 100% fit with my current wheels but I want to ensure that I won't have any issues if I ever go to 3 piece wheels.
  11. @valy I look forward to seeing what you do with the 370. No doubt it's going to be stunning
  12. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has any experience and/or recommendations when it comes to 2-piece discs for their Akebono's? Having had a look online I can see a few decent options but the prices seem to be through the roof in a few cases. The Z1 kit looks to be a fairly reasonable price coming in at a little over $1000 or so for 4 discs but I can't seem to find anything in the UK that can come close to that price. More than happy to import them as I figure the total after postage and import tax will probably be around £1200. The Torqen 2-piece discs look to be pretty good as well but I can't seem to find a price for those on the website strangely. Are they still available for purchase? @Adrian@TORQEN Realistically I don't want to be spending much over the £1100-1200 mark as anything over that and I may as well just buy a K-Sport brake kit at £2.5k as that will include the discs as well as new callipers and I can then no doubt recoup some of that cost by selling my Akebono's, pads and discs. Any information would be greatly appreciated. And before anyone says, I know that I do not 'need' to upgrade to 2-piece discs, neither do I 'need' the K-Sport kit as the car isn't tracked. It is purely for the fact that I'm powder coating my callipers soon and would like to do something with the bells of the discs as well. Ridiculous I know But it should look pretty interesting when complete.
  13. @Umster Cheers mate, appreciate it! This year I'm going to really try and get to as many shows as possible as I've been slacking this past year or so. Going to submit applications for some of the indoor shows (fitted, gravity, players etc.) as well as attending the usual shows like Japfest Silverstone and Japanese Performance Show. I doubt I'll be attending any shows at Castle Combe (not with my car at least) as they've been a bit of a let down recently. It seems everything outside of the 350zUK stand is a bit mediocre and I tend to lose interest in the show by about 11am but that's probably just me being a but snob-ish





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