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About jktitties

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    Z Newbie


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    North West

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  1. Oh my god. Did you originally have the whole car resprayed Black? Can I ask what the paint code was? Y our car looks amazing, that black is so dam deep!! I am in love!
  2. Hey guys, looking for these parts for my 2008 350Z HR. 1. Looking for a Japspeed K1 system without rust, good condition plug and play and good tips without damage, don’t mind if they need a clean up and not expecting it to look brand new. 2. Also looking for an aftermarket Y pipe with flexi seals in mint condition. Anything but the standard ebay ones for £85 as ive heard the flexis aren’t good. I am looking for the set that flows better with stronger flexi seals if possible as pictured below. I’ve seen them sell together used for around £195 on this forum in good condition so that’s what I’m aiming for but of course open to discussion Shipped is probably better but could pick up in north west near Manchester, blackpool etc Thanks!
  3. thank you for this heads up man, was super helpful! Yes typical JDM lol this is the first I've heard of this!
  4. Thank you. I'm just going to go ahead and order a new seat of control arms and return the new ones I got. I'll ask the seller to confirm they're 14mm instead of the 16mm I have now. Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it. Was lost with that one.
  5. That’s amazing thank you very much! I appreciate that a lot, I had no idea about those differences. I will have a look online and try to find either a new set of arms that have 14mm. If not I’ll try get a replacement part for the ball joint. Thanks a lot I really appreciate that and will post updates as I go along.
  6. So the bushings went on the front lower control arms and banana arms, so I bought a new set of both since it’s about the same price as sourcing and replacing the bushings in a shop. The banana arms went in without a problem, but the garage noticed the hole in the aftermarket control arms was bigger than the hole in the OEM control arm. This is the section which is without its own bushing. They concluded it would not be save to install the part due to how different the holes were and the risk it could cause with vibration etc. I’ve attached photos of the OEM vs the aftermarket one which is CNC billet. The seller has sold hundreds without any bad reviews so I didn’t understand why mine didn’t fit. When i researched online I saw people selling “lower control arm ball joints” but I wasn’t sure if this would help since the OEM piece is cast with a smaller hole. I have a video too I can try attach if anyone wants to see. I already searched through the threads, plenty of information on the 2 bushings on each of these arms but nothing on the hole diameter. Garage smashed the old ones open so can’t reuse them. I’m looking to understand why what I have doesn’t fit as opposed to buying another thing straight away. Hopefully I can make it work. But if I have to then I have to, Ive sourced some LCA with the ball for £130 new on Ebay. thanks for your help!
  7. Sorry my bad! I didn’t realise I had gone into the wrong section
  8. Hahaha that rotary life! Definitely want one one day!!!! Wow that is amazing man. if it is your first Z you are in for one hell of a ride. I was so excited buying my first Z. And second, and third! Thank you buddy I will!
  9. On it mate! Having a look for some used cobra decats now to last me until the TT build! Saw the berk HFCs, they look nice Want to be a thot and try to spit flames, to has to be straight pipes for me atm! ps i will move to the build thread just replying to messages here
  10. Guess who's got a set of Injen Long CAI on the way! Well excited for these to get here! (pic for reference). Purchased from Torquen in their black friday sale for around £407 which is ace. Stillens look cool but I've read the comparisons on here and I know a lot of people preferred the Injen's for minor reasons. I'm sure both kits are great! Also need to get something fabbed for my 2.25" true duel as it's rattling against various things under the car (tight fit) if anyone has any advice it would be deeply appreciated! Debating buying off-brand headers with decat. They're for DE but will fit (Hard to find HR parts), it's only the flange from header to cat which is specific to HR/VHR I believe. (from my research!). Not sure if the quality will be what I need, but in the dyno section I heard really good things about swapping the stock headers out. I would do a spray the heat coat on them unless I can get the welding equipment! Link to product: https://bit.ly/2RkRWcz There is A LOT I want to do to the body so for things like exhaust, as long as it's reliable and non-restrictive, I'm not too bothered about named brands. Although the canisters at the back and the 5" exits do look good! HR vs DE SOUND. Have to be honest about this. Hard to say, but DE sounds WAY better than the HR in my opinion. I miss driving my DE so much, it's garaged whilst I'm driving the HR. DE sounds smooth like a trumpet and at 4K+ revs it genuinely sounds like a symphony, at least it did for me with Cobra HFC and cat back res exhaust. I call that car the rocket because it sounds like you're sat on a rocket engine at all times. The HR sounds like a V8. It's not a typical RB VQ or other japanese sounding engine from the 90s. It sounds harsh and mean and less pure. That's great andd I TOTALLY get the attraction to that! but I like the trumpet - it sounds unique to the car and people would ALWAYS compliment the car on it at the odd meet. It was the best exhaust note out of all of my friends cars I use to go out with. DE running Cobra HFC + Cobra cat back HR running stock cats (looking for low cost temporary decats) and 2.25" true duel. There is definitely a significant difference in the engine note. DE and HR have different firing patterns so I think it might partially be down to that. HR is 1,2,3,4,5,6. Just trying to get a better sound out of the HR for now and hoping the decat will do that. It doesn't sound bassy like the cobra system. HR sounds raspy. Exhaust below has ok fitment but seems to rub and vibrate against things which is loud and bad. This is what I have on it now - it ends too early at the back so is hidden by the bumper, the outer tip doens't look that good in person IMO, and it's rattling against stuff. It looked so pretty lol. Note mine is with the blue tinged smoked tips, not these tips. At this point I am really debating my decisions. Why turbo a HR when it's so hard to get spare engines in the UK, when I could buy a blown DE RevUp for 500, build that outside the car (rods etc) and drop it in the DE. Or sell my DE and buy one with a blown engine, I'd be doing a new body either way. But I can't do a new body on both cars! Very conflicted right now so will be holding onto both cars for a while I think! HR definitely feels more powerful than DE and it's addictive! I just MISS the trumpet! SMELL Does anyone know where I could borrow an Ozone machine? They use them inside rental cars to eliminate customer smells between rentals. My HR has a weird smell, everyone says it smells nice but I hate it. I've used febreeze, shampoo'd carpets, used those things you leave in for 15 mins with AC running, nothing has helped much. I'm a bit lost, but heard good things about the ozone machines!! Anyway once headers decats and CAI's are fitted I'll be off for a tune! Will of course share numbers with you lads!
  11. Lol! Your car looks like a mirror in that picture mate Nice! The demon eyes look so sick man! And the black roof Yeah it's so annoying, I haven't even tried launching my HR because I know I'll run into something like that. Had it on one of my last Z's, why couldn't Nissan bless us with decent clutch cylinders lol. Thanks a lot man! I am definitely not a pro, just trial and error really I need to do it all to my HR since it's back on the road too lol. Thanks bro! LOOOOL! Tell me about it right! Thanks a lot buddy. Works in progress, when the HR is finished it will look very different! Thanks dude!!
  12. This is what I found confusing, I read the exact same thing everywhere and I was so confident, I even took it to a shop since they had a lift to fit it and it was so far off, really bad, there was no way it would begin to fit without multiple pie cuts done, at which point it’s twice the price of the part anyway. do you have any brand you could recommend for HFC on HR Mark?
  13. Hi, sorry to bump an old thread but wanted to add an update to this as I used it as bible and bought a part that doesn’t fit from my experience, HR and VHR share the same flange to the headers, but, the angle of the piece is different. We found the exhaust ended up hitting the prop shaft hard with the 370z decat installed on the HR. We had to go back to stock cats as it would require a lot of welding to get it to fit. Just a heads up of my experience! Wouldn’t do this again, would just get HR cats instead.
  14. This was my paint restoration journey! I'm definitely NOT a professional detailer! Just someone with OCD I'll include what worked and the mistakes I made. This is how it looked when I bought the car: Here's the list of what I did to the paint: Spray with water Spray with snow foam Wash using 2 bucket technique Wash with water Dry by hand Clay Bar entire car with AutoGlym Rapid Detailer (can probs use something else but I heard good things about it for lubricating the clay bar. clay was cheap from ebay, 5 for £10 I think, they're bright blue). Quick wipe down with microfibre, should be dry already I used T-cut on a Dual Action Rotary Orbital with a firm smooth sponge, 5" or 7" I think. I did the entire car in small sections. This removed most but not all of the surface scratches which was fine for me. Doing it for longer or using harsher compounds would have probably got me to nearly 100% new but that would be too corrosive on the clear coat and I want to keep my clear coat lol. Here's a pic whilst I was doing it, this was my first attempt and I did a better job the second time This is what the paint looked like at the end of the full process (not there yet). It looked perfect in the day time, it was only under harsh light at night time close up you could still see a few micro scratches to the clear. 10. I wiped off the T-cut residue with a microfiber. This happened because I used too much and the first time the sponge on the DA was too soft. I didn't have to do this much when I redid it properly. You could probably try the Autoglym super resin polish but meh, T-cut has been around forever and I had a bottle sat in the garage. 10a. I had really bad stone scratches on the bonnet and front bumper, so using a nail art sharp tip paint brush (lol) I went in to a small bottle of touch up for my paint code purchased from ebay and individually filled in each of the stone chips. It's not as impressive as a new paint job, but I would rather have some tiny body-coloured bumps on the front than bright white stone chips. I did this way after the first time I cleaned up the paint but this is where it fits into the full routine, after the T cut and before the wax. 11. I used 2 waxes. The first was the SIMONIZ Original Hard Car Wax. That was tricky to use but melts into the sponge with some heat. Buff out before it dries as it's so hard to remove once it sets. Buffed this into the car in small sections really massaging it in softly with a bumpy sponge on the DA. I would not recommend any buffers but the Dual Action as I previously damaged paint really easy using a drill attachment. Worth the £65 investment trust me! They're so handy! 12. The second wax I used was Turtle Wax Original Car Wax Liquid. This one does dry faster so you have to work quickly. Some people just use one wax and I'm sure that works perfectly, I like to start with hard wax and move my way up. I wouldn't do any of this stuff by hand. I've done it before and it just takes three times along. Definitely worth getting the DA imo. 13. I cleaned off the excess Turtle Wax dried up liquid with a microfiber and then used AutoGlym Rapid Detailer over the car a panel at a time and massaged in with a microfiber. This step was super fast because no machinery and I find it just gives it a little extra shine as well as a little extra protection. Fin. That was everything for the paint! The reason it took me months was because it was my first time using the machine and there was some trial and error with how much pressure to use, I went too light to start with and it didn't get enough of the scratches out. I've done the hatch, roof and bonnet twice to get it how I wanted it. Took a long time but spreading it out it wasn't bad and it looks like a whole new car from when I first got it. Nissan paint from the factory isn't bad! Warning tho it shows up dirt so fast now with the paint being super shiny compared to before, it needs cleaning 1-2 times a week just being sat on the drive



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