RobPhoboS

If you just drive the car normally, I'd almost say use whatever works for you, change it a couple of times a year if it's cheap (it'll break down under harder use). If you hit the track, definitely spend more on some decent stuff and change it every 2-3 track days.

I'm only fitting one seat jumping350, cheers for the thought though! This was the other idea I had, although I'd still need someone to weld a tab for the seatbelt fixing point. 2 x 5mm thick, 80m wide Aluminium bar (is that ok?) Use some imagination here to replace cardboard with metal Yes, the left inner side will be taller but with my mounts they are quite tall so I should be able to get the seat level. This way I can get the mounts as close as possible to the tunnel, and it'll fix down onto the bar. Looks like FBT did here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97520-the-trackcar-is-dead-long-live-the-trackcar/page__st__60

I don't have a photo of it here but if I could get that off so it's flat on top (as it's 4.7mm thick steel), I'd have a problem with how high the seat is I think as it won't go down further with the design of it.

Still no luck even with the Buddyclub mounts that Rich kindly lent to me to try out. It could have worked if the seatbelt fixing point wasn't welded directly on top of the mount. As I could have taken off the supplied 4 mounts to the seat, and put the side-mounts ontop and shifted the seat over to the left more. Hopefully heading over to someone that can fabricate a frame for me, what a ballache eh

Same here, in fact I used to detest them ! That was until I spent several days in a GT2 travelling across Europe and hitting up a couple of tracks... Amazing sports cars.

If it's done as a joke - that's epic

Finally ! Started watching your channel(s) quite a while back, great seeing people working on various cars - so definitely keep it up

Just because it popped up earlier, and it's the same seat...

Thanks K, that means I have to split the 350z lot in 2 Do you know the pitch sizes as well? I can measure my tow hook for you on the weekend if that's any use ?

She's Sh!7 the bed, she has to clean it up ! (sorry for the ghastly image ) Why the hell should you sort out someone else's mess. It would be different if someone hadn't had a loan before and didn't have a credit score or what have you. You did the right thing

The ONLY annoying people on track days are the ones that don't move out of the way, either because they aren't using their mirrors or they have some weird ego thing going on (slow you in the corners, then speed up on the straights) The limited few I've done, I let everyone past and just concentrate on my lines first, slowly building up some speed and learning how the car responds

Bushings The only other one I'd add to that list is compression arm bushings if yours is for typical daily driving. Poly bushings in certain places bind and release, thus slow down response time (especially in steering feel). Used in the right places they're great. Ooh and just a tip, Whiteline tend to be softer than others.

Exactly as Ekona said, the trouble is there are combo's that work, and don't ! If you're going for the same seat as me, yeah definitely pay attention to what I end up with I certainly wish I could weld stuff together as I'm sure this would have been sorted by now. I'm just confused as to how the guy in the video used the same sub-frame, mounts and seat without it clattering into the door card. I wouldn't recommend the overly long Sabelt side frames I have unless you're tall and need the seat all of the way back (they're 490mm long!), I should have gone with the normal sized 90 deg ones instead. I now have 2 options, the above one mentioned and a second option with thanks to Rich260 - so hopefully that will do the trick, of course I'll post up what I find too. As I have the whole weekend, I'll spend some time taking measurements which will hopefully help out anyone else in the future.

You need 'pay4later' on your site

If its a hard start, it could also be a cam sensor on the fritz. Just to bare that in mind too. (don't buy a cheap ebay one in this instance)

See you there !!! I'll be there in my old boat and an NSX-R Urggghhhh.... Let me count my pennies . Would love to make it if i can. Top job Rob........and an NSX-R is pretty awesome!! My brother will be there in his little VXR220 and my friend with his M3 CSL too so a pretty good line up Willis.........you know you want to Is it too early to be praying for dry tarmac and sunshine all day!? Damn, I jumped the gun - I think it's the week later now as my friend that's coming with me\booking has his anniversary on the 28th However, I might try and do both if I can. The trouble is, I need new rear tyres right now too, and to book my Moscow flights

See you there !!! I'll be there in my old boat and an NSX-R

Yo ! Back on the road pads again I need to make some brake ducting, I emailed Stoptech about the heatspots I created. They've suggested skimming them, bedding them in fully fully fully - and the ducting will certainly help out. It seems that you are starting to get pad layer transfer on your rotors, this will possibly result in brake judder in the near future. It looks like that the CL pads you are using are not capable of coping with the heat you are generating when braking, resulting in them burning/depositing pad material on your rotor. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behaviour that caused the trouble will bring it right back. They feel absolutely fine but I'll go ahead with this process or it'll just happen again. I don't know the particular downside to it (anyone feel free to chip in) but I can only think that the disc will heat up quicker in those spots. Just to re-iterate that this is down to me either not bedding them in fully with the CL RC5+ pads, or just a lot of heat generated on track with those pads (or a combo).

Honestly that should be the LAST thing on your mind out there especially as I'm guessing you've not been ? It's not like a 'normal' track and will punish even highly experienced drivers (not even just because of the track itself, other driver errors, dropped fluid, debris etc). Take it easy, let people past and enjoy yourself - get home as you arrived ! I don't want to see anyone on one those 'ring vids driving like a spaz into the armco

Unless someone has put the facelift bar on a pre

Is it hard starting or just normal when it does ?

If it's the OEM suspension, and past 60k - then I'd put money on the shocks being done for. My one's had blown, I didn't have a clue as the car was new to me. It was only when I took them off, then the spring and compressed the piston - it didn't budge ! But getting up to higher speeds - small problems\issues become MASSIVELY magnified.

You're welcome to try the DD's Rich, my ones are 2.5" dia if that's any use ?

Ah I was just thinking how tall the front left (55mm), and rear left (42/45mm) heights are and having enough clearance above it after putting the slider on.

Glad you are doing these as I couldn't find one in the M22 size !