RobPhoboS

Only from dec/Jan tons left.

Wait wait I know what you're going to say. Tyres/pressure etc Yes, I've just put on new rear tyres - the fronts are MPSS, and now the rears are MPS4 (standard Rays). However, I noticed this happening with the worn down MPSS's before changing them too. Approaching some corners local to me, I know what speeds are 'normal' and going beyond those speeds are treading into quick, pushing and daft. Going at a normal speed of around 45-50ish the TC light is flickering and the brakes are being applied per corner, making the car wiggle a little bit. Also I noticed when applying the brakes quite hard from a reasonable speed going up hill on a dual carriageway , they were also triggering per corner and made the car very unsettled (nobody nearby of course). Initially I blamed the new tyres and the coating on them, however I'm sure I've done well over 200 miles now, and a wee burn out on a mates drive. Before the tyres went on, my OMP seat went in. At the moment I've not put the resistor into the connections to stop the seat belt light flashing (I have harness but also using the seat belt for driving on the road). I wonder if the TC/ABS is getting overly triggered due to this ? (it doesn't do this on road driving for me usually)

Absolutely mate, it's a vast, vast difference. I adjusted the angle yesterday, and on track I'll pull the cushions off as it feels like the best way. In hindsight, it wasn't an ideal seat due to the width, the comfort is great though. As least if I want to try another in the future the hard work is done! Now just this gearbox to rebuild.

I wouldn't want to use that as a harness bar.

As many of you probably saw my post here: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/115791-fixed-bucket-seats-fittings-optionsideas/ I was pretty stumped as to how to get the seat in by any off the shelf sub-frame bracket. The only one that may work with my particular seat could have been the Planted Motorsport one but you'd have to import that, and take a gamble. I was put in touch with Nick Garrett of Garrett Race Fabrication, from a very good friend that he does frequent work for. Typically on high end race cars, I had seen the completed work done on a Le Mans Ferrari 550 (1 of 2 iirc) to get the same passenger seat as my one installed. So I thought, yeah, he can probably deal with my 350z The main problem with this seat is the width, which is why I had to turn to someone that knows what they're doing. I've just got to have a play with the seat positioning side mount bolts, and put the seat belt through the sides. I'll also get a harness bar later in the year. If anyone is interested in Nick doing work on your car, send me a PM for now. He will have a Facebook page soon to show off all of his work (all sorts of fabrication inc roll cages etc).

Finally... I'll post up more detailed stuff tomorrow.

Thanks for letting me know. Perhaps if you do another group buy in the future, or dare I say it...do a Tarmac edition, count me in. Right now I need new rear boots, gearbox rebuild and custom bracket subframe for my bucket seat !

Sorry one more question, what's the price of the v3 normally? I've got other pressing stuff to sort first but always wanted one!

Great news ! I saw this and thought of you though

It's a lesson for all, don't use cheap little jacks - it's worth spending some money on one, and even then don't ever use them without axle stands. I'm not saying that a more expensive one wouldn't have done the same thing if the angle of it caused it to buckle. The 350z is a heavy car, it's not worth risking causing damage to it - or potentially something fatal to yourself :/ Hopefully it's not too much of a problem getting your tank sorted.

What was it you said in a pm to me a couple of weeks ago

Sorry to hear that but I have to ask, what Jack did you use? And what axle stands?

Just realised this is a massive ball ache, he's put soo many up but obviously we can't see them now unless you click on them.

Erm, I was following 2 mates in gt3 rs's...

Many thanks for doing the video, that's some cool stuff right there

CL RC5+ I'll possibly be going up to RC6 after an email enquiry with them but I need to make some brake ducting first, and fix the gearbox, and fit my OMP seat, and maybe install a new clutch and flywheel I really didn't like DS2500's on the road, I had fade a few times!

Just remember to keep the rake ratio between front and rear (so rear slightly higher) close-ish to stock. FSM 2004 FSU Page 21 Coupe Front: 683mm Rear: 706mm (Difference of 23mm) That's from the ground to the wheel arch.

I use TYP200, it's cheaper than the others and nearly the same spec as Motul, plus it comes in a 1ltr tin which is usually enough to flush out the old. Although it's possibly worth getting 2 tins just-in-case.

Are you sure you aren't confusing that with lightened pulleys ?

You definitely want thermostatic or you'll not get the oil up to temp during the colder months. And I do think it's worth having one, or an oil pan spacer regardless of track/drift - these engines could do with more oil capacity, and this helps.

Cool, I presume that is directing air towards the centre of the disc ? I really didn't like the DS2500 on the road at least, I had fade with those from spirited driving. Same fluid as I use now, TYP200. I'm currently on CL RC5+ (will probably try RC6 next) , I really need to do ducting as well as I managed to start cooking the brake fluid last time I went out on track. The reason in my case I believe this happened is that I created hotspots on the front discs, so I think the disc gets hotter quicker and then you're into the cycle of loads of heat in that area. (time to skim them, put ducting in for me)

Can you upload some photo's of the cooling ducts for the brakes ? What pads have you used on track ?

Let me know if you do sub frames separately hah, I'm having to go custom as the seat is too offset to the door!

Elongating the subframe hole is for toe, so if you need more than the standard eccentric bolt\nut then yeah do it and fit the Eibach bolt. Sounds like you are staying within the recommended factory settings so don't bother with it (imho). But having the adjustable camber arms is worth it (with locking washers).

I've had this problem for about 4 years or so. I did 2 track days a month ago... it's genuinely sorted it.