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RobPhoboS

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Everything posted by RobPhoboS

  1. Hey Alex - just checking if you have a RevUp lower half plenum ?
  2. Depending on your exhaust tips, I've got a couple of Decibel Devils for sale (just need to amend my 'for sale' thread) - of the 2.5" variety. I recently just bought a 5" DD for my new exhaust too. They do help, even if it's a few db's, can get you by the day and take 2 mins to fit. I've not done this circuit yet but it's one I'd like to try this year once my car is sorted.
  3. Great to meet you timww1966 I hope she enjoys the exhaust as much as I have ! The DD's are still for sale but I'll start another thread for those I think.
  4. My car is a 2004. I'm not sure what the stock HR y-pipe is like, as that's what this would connect to. Assuming that the end of the Y-pipe is a 2 bolt flange, 3" and centrally located, I imagine it should fit. However, I'd recommend you do some research first to double check
  5. The future looks more and more planky to me 😭
  6. If someone has their old, spare 2004 air box kicking around, please pm me. I'm going to hack it up if it suits my needs, so not worried about the condition really. EDIT: Found one for a reasonable price on ebay (no not one of the cheeky morons trying to sell one for £150 + ffs ).
  7. It'll be piston rings, and most likely valve stem seals too. So either, keep adding oil and change it regularly, rebuild it or sling another one in.
  8. SOLD TO: timww1966 (minus DD's so will post them up for sale separately) I've just changed my exhaust, so this is up for sale now. Ideally someone will buy the lot, and then will have a choice of resonated, or non-resonated, as well as having the 2.5" Decibel Devils for track days. The tips quickly come off (10mm bolts), and the DD's are inserted, will help reduce several db's for track days. £380 for the lot (postage tbc) (New they're £610 non res, £650 res. Res pipe £250 iirc, DD's £60 ea) I'm more than happy to take extra photos if needed, I just gave the pipes a quick clean up this afternoon and didn't spot anything bad. No weld repairs or holes. I'm based near J8 - M25 (about 10 mins from that), so ideally you'd come and collect. I do have a box from the new exhaust, and it may well fit inside, I'll try to find out today. Don't forget, you'll need 2x new 3" gaskets.
  9. Will definitely come along to this one Hopefully car somewhat sorted by that point
  10. SPAXY: Let me know if you do sell your current wheels, I probably can't afford them but boyoboy do I want a set of those !
  11. I'll just say it again, if it's not clear to anyone reading this... THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MODULE
  12. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/121590-350z-370z-full-tcs-vdc-disable-with-memory/ It's the mis-matched wheel sizes on his car that freaked out the wheel speed sensors. The module disables tcs/vdc.
  13. This isn't due to the module. The wheel speed sensors are getting messed up info. 'ICE mode' in ABS can be triggered by the difference in wheel sizes on any car (not just Z) , and yeah it can be really dangerous. It really should be more well known. I wasn't really aware of it until recently when searching about some ABS delete options, and saw a bunch of ice mode issues on track for people. You may need to edit your post bud
  14. I've updated this thread rather than start a new one, thus some old photos but parts are still in my garage. Thanks again for looking
  15. Eeek, apologies didn't spot this ! Yes sir, I rebuilt the whole thing and have done a couple of track days since. I will do a proper thread, promise. However, need to plug in a new (to me) Link ECU/Widebands and get it mapped again, as at low RPM's its not happy and stalls out when coming to a stop/reversing sometimes.
  16. Looks like we get things like this but quality varies (of course): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK4734-Cobalt-Spot-Drill/dp/B001SG1USG/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cutter-Remover-Separator-Welding-Pieces/dp/B08DRR4RZR I know sometimes places like Machinemart/Screwfix etc sell stuff that looks the same but I've found that the quality is better with some stuff: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht685-spot-weld-cutter-set/
  17. Hopefully over the Christmas period I'm going to start gutting the rear of my car out, ready for a half/roll cage to be welded in next year at some point. And I'm just wondering for those that have done any spot weld drilling, what bits you used ? I see very mixed reviews on the little 8mm cutters with teeth, and would rather buy what works. Cheers for any help !
  18. Bit of a thread bump here. I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my rear right was considerably lower than the left. Had a chance to briefly inspect this with the wheel off over the weekend, the divorced spring locking collars were tight (both L & R). No leaking shocks, and everything else looks fine, albeit DIRTY The only thing I did notice was that the left spring, with the wheel off and the car up on stands, had a bit of a gap between the perch and the spring. I loosened the locking collar and lowered it down so it roughly matches the other side for now. The only thing I wondered is if the upper central thing with the thread on it (jeez ), somehow turned over time, causing it to lower itself ? Or just perhaps a bit of spring sag? Either way, I'm still really happy with them, and will either adjust them both higher, or switch in the spare springs/perches I didn't use when they replaced my original GT1's. Photo here for the bit I meant:
  19. Great thread dave_7 (I've been too lazy to start my own one, I really should do it at some point) I've not seen any 370z's out on track at all, granted I've only just managed 2 this year in my 350 (as I rebuilt my engine), so it's great to see a Nismo out there too. Unfortunately I went past enjoying it on the road, primarily down to spherical bushings
  20. Not that this'll specifically help but I think this guy is also going through the same kind of thing.. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC39KB7-StA774VHp9s4i04A/videos
  21. Back in 2017 I wired up an oil temperature sensor, and it was working without an issue (old thread here: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/114588-wiring-in-an-oil-temperature-sensor-for-the-inept/ ). The way it's wired up is tapped into the passenger side cigarette lighter wires (red/black), and the socket itself still works (ie phone charging), as well as the gauge working with ignition. However since then I've just fully rebuilt the engine and moved the single-wire sensor from it's original place onto the mishimoto sandwich plate. After moving it, of course it stopped working. So I bought a 2 wire sensor, that didn't seem to work (grounded it to the engine block), and then I bought another gauge kit just in case the gauge itself was on the fritz. Swapped over the wiring to the new gauge (comes on with ignition), and thought I'd test the new single wire sensor (that came with the new kit) out first by dipping the end into hot water, and nothing happens. Nor does it work with the old sensor that's still in the oil sandwich plate. I've got a multimeter, and can test away, although I don't know what I'm doing so any pointers would be really helpful ! Tested the sensor with the multimeter, seems to be reading correctly, and changed accordingly when dipped in hot water. So it must be something to do with the ground wire I guess. EDIT: Ended up buying a new gauge (Prosport Premium), everything works as it should do now. Well it did the other night
  22. Watching now as this is the tyre test I'm most interested in:
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