RobPhoboS

For sure I still want them serviced just as they're nearly 20 years old 🥴 And I just want to make sure they're in good condition before another remap. I had presumed that it was going to be around £165-ish anyway, and he seems like a good one to use.

Funnily enough I had contacted him as well last week about having my set serviced but the price is more 😆 £22.50 per injector (includes full testing, spray analysis, cleaning internally, flushing the debris from within, final flow testing and balance matching the set) The kit of parts is installed at a separate cost, likely £15.48 for a 6 cylinder kit containing new upper and lower Viton seals. The return postage would be £15.00 within the UK. I still want to have it done, just as they've not been serviced before.

No offence to you but for the love of ICE - DO some research, and don't rely on forums ! You get one shot at doing this right. 😂 You'll have to decide what's best because you'll get conflicting info from well intentioned people. I rebuilt my engine at home 3-4 years ago, and had to break\run it in on the road, whereas 350Butcher had it on an engine dyno (not chassis). This is what I followed, listened to and did - is it correct/perfect - too late now 😆 https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/quick-tech-performance-engine-break-in-the-right-way/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yRudUHeSng (3 parts) I really like Lakespeed Jr, so have a search for him on YT (works with Total Seal piston rings now), huge amount of knowledge and very humble speaking to others: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJw1_levGew I used: Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Mineral Engine Oil (call Opie Oils and see if they can help needs be). Oil viscosity (running in, and after) depends on your build and clearances on the bearings (don't assume stock is correct). After running in, drop the oil and carefully open up the oil filter and inspect it. You'll likely see swarf, so ensure that you have enough of your normal oil and filters to run it and drop it again to help flush it out, repeat as required, it will bugger off eventually. It's totally down to you how long you run it and drop it again (I verged on the paranoia side of things). It's one thing I didn't see many industry people talking about much. I use this for cutting the filter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09J2M1WVX/?th=1 Good luck 🙌

No it won't. Have a read of this or check youtube for what they do: https://fluidampr.com/engine-vibration/ It is better for the engine, and worth doing depending on age/mileage.

It's been ruddy ages, hope all is well for you and the team too ! ❤️ I will certainly be in touch after we've moved 😅

Just to chip in, if anyone is on the fence about them - I've got an old Vipec ECU that runs on the Link G4+ platform, it's seriously good and the UI of their software is friendly. Their forum is really useful, and plenty of active users willing to help It's well worth learning a bit about them, and in this instance I'd recommend Evans Performance Academy over HPA (or both to plug any gaps).

Well that sucks ! But you're kind of lucky too in some respects. You're only going to know the state of the heads & parts once it's taken off, and checked over for leaking/bent valves (plus checking pistons for any contact). Ideally you want to know exactly what caused the failure, rather than just blindly replacing bits and pieces. At 190k miles, yes definitely replace all of the timing stuff, water pump, and at least strip and clean/inspect the oil pump too if you're going to keep this car. No harm in replacing the cam with a good used one. If you're going to do it yourself, you'll definitely need a decent selection of tools, some cover and you're going to need to have the heads resurfaced and valves checked/cleaned by a professional. So yeah, either fix it yourself (and get the right tools), get someone else to do it, or sell it as is and take the hit. 🤕

Cheers for letting me know!

Hey Alex - just checking if you have a RevUp lower half plenum ?

Depending on your exhaust tips, I've got a couple of Decibel Devils for sale (just need to amend my 'for sale' thread) - of the 2.5" variety. I recently just bought a 5" DD for my new exhaust too. They do help, even if it's a few db's, can get you by the day and take 2 mins to fit. I've not done this circuit yet but it's one I'd like to try this year once my car is sorted.

Great to meet you timww1966 I hope she enjoys the exhaust as much as I have ! The DD's are still for sale but I'll start another thread for those I think.

My car is a 2004. I'm not sure what the stock HR y-pipe is like, as that's what this would connect to. Assuming that the end of the Y-pipe is a 2 bolt flange, 3" and centrally located, I imagine it should fit. However, I'd recommend you do some research first to double check

The future looks more and more planky to me 😭

If someone has their old, spare 2004 air box kicking around, please pm me. I'm going to hack it up if it suits my needs, so not worried about the condition really. EDIT: Found one for a reasonable price on ebay (no not one of the cheeky morons trying to sell one for £150 + ffs ).

It'll be piston rings, and most likely valve stem seals too. So either, keep adding oil and change it regularly, rebuild it or sling another one in.

SOLD TO: timww1966 (minus DD's so will post them up for sale separately) I've just changed my exhaust, so this is up for sale now. Ideally someone will buy the lot, and then will have a choice of resonated, or non-resonated, as well as having the 2.5" Decibel Devils for track days. The tips quickly come off (10mm bolts), and the DD's are inserted, will help reduce several db's for track days. £380 for the lot (postage tbc) (New they're £610 non res, £650 res. Res pipe £250 iirc, DD's £60 ea) I'm more than happy to take extra photos if needed, I just gave the pipes a quick clean up this afternoon and didn't spot anything bad. No weld repairs or holes. I'm based near J8 - M25 (about 10 mins from that), so ideally you'd come and collect. I do have a box from the new exhaust, and it may well fit inside, I'll try to find out today. Don't forget, you'll need 2x new 3" gaskets.

Will definitely come along to this one Hopefully car somewhat sorted by that point

SPAXY: Let me know if you do sell your current wheels, I probably can't afford them but boyoboy do I want a set of those !

Great to meet you Vlad, thanks again!

I'll just say it again, if it's not clear to anyone reading this... THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE MODULE

https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/121590-350z-370z-full-tcs-vdc-disable-with-memory/ It's the mis-matched wheel sizes on his car that freaked out the wheel speed sensors. The module disables tcs/vdc.

This isn't due to the module. The wheel speed sensors are getting messed up info. 'ICE mode' in ABS can be triggered by the difference in wheel sizes on any car (not just Z) , and yeah it can be really dangerous. It really should be more well known. I wasn't really aware of it until recently when searching about some ABS delete options, and saw a bunch of ice mode issues on track for people. You may need to edit your post bud

I've updated this thread rather than start a new one, thus some old photos but parts are still in my garage. Thanks again for looking

Eeek, apologies didn't spot this ! Yes sir, I rebuilt the whole thing and have done a couple of track days since. I will do a proper thread, promise. However, need to plug in a new (to me) Link ECU/Widebands and get it mapped again, as at low RPM's its not happy and stalls out when coming to a stop/reversing sometimes.

Looks like we get things like this but quality varies (of course): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK4734-Cobalt-Spot-Drill/dp/B001SG1USG/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cutter-Remover-Separator-Welding-Pieces/dp/B08DRR4RZR I know sometimes places like Machinemart/Screwfix etc sell stuff that looks the same but I've found that the quality is better with some stuff: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht685-spot-weld-cutter-set/