Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

635 Excellent


About RobPhoboS

  • Rank
    Z Veteran
  • Birthday 08/08/1980


  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yep, I've seen a few of them with umteen watches that they'll buy up and sell on a year or two later (with Brucey bonus). I couldn't do that as I'd not have a clue about them, other than - oh, that looks nice
  2. I want a Seiko, although I don't know what one just yet. I think I have about 15 different watches in wishlists (all affordable). Some mates have ridiculous pieces (PatekP/Hublot etc), however I don't really care about the inner workings of them, just the design. Basically the complete opposite to cars for some reason
  3. I have whiteline bushings in the diff, my subframe was the stock Nissan bits I'm on AD08R tyres, I've not driven it in anger in the wet but it hasn't been twitchy the last 3 track days (I did 3 in a row Silverstone/Donny/Anglesey), imho that's more to do with suspension geo and damper settings if it's twitchy (it'll depend on user input and conditions too of course). These modifications just help lock the driveline down at the rear and reduce issues with wheel hop, and being able to transfer the power down. So yes it's transfers the energy but where it's meant to go (once again, imho). Note I also have a Kaaz 1.5 way diff too
  4. Ask Adrian about the diff support, I also have one of those - that's a mod that I think most of us should have as the poor thing is only held on by 1 bolt at the rear without it !
  5. It's the same as what they said, the 'stay brackets' will need to be unbolted (I bought a replacement set as my ones were like croissants), and I've not looked under the 370Z, so I don't know what else you may need to remove. Just ensure the car is on axle stands and you use the jack to support the diff.
  6. TBH this is the link you want to read thoroughly: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/482664-suspension-101-a.html Anything you're asking or thinking of asking has been asked many times So please, have a read of that with your preferred wake-up juice. In short: If you lower/raise the car from stock height then you mess up the geometry of the suspension, and how it was intended to move. It's up to you if you want to have it all working optimally. BUT I will tell you right now, you can't just change 1 thing and think yes that's sorted it, unfortunately it's a cascading affect once that ride height has changed. If you're only driving it on the road, I'm sure most of it doesn't matter but typically you want to adjust the camber/toe front/rear. If you look at the aftermarket, there are varying factors, cost, durability, intended use etc Once again, you only really need to go that route if you change the height, or if something OEM won't quite get to the adjustment you want.
  7. I got a set of these about 2 months ago from @Adrian@TORQEN and I have to say they're very much worth having! Moreso if you track the car. The installation isn't quite as straightforward as 30 mins and you're done. It IS easy though. The time will increase if your bits and bobs are a bit rusty under there, so take your time and care. I had several bolts that were completely knackered and needed to use one of those rounded bolt/nut removal kits (the rust was severe!). I ended up replacing a bunch of rusty stuff under there, so have a look first. Feel free to ask any questions!
  8. Once again many thanks for the SPL parts and this big shiny beasty ! (I'm not a fan of chrome/bling but I have to say it does look good) Hopefully it does what I expect it to do. DE + Cams + this = more power waay beyond stock.
  9. You're welcome, there are quite a few videos explaining knock-back but it's only something you're likely to really get on track.
  10. Get a couple of impact 'wobble sockets'. (I've got a pair of US pro ones which do the job fine)
  11. All pads have it, not these specifically (well from my experience), it's the single piece disc that doesn't help. You can get knockback springs or 2 piece discs.
  12. I nipped up (yeah 5 hours) to Anglesey on the weekend for a trackday yesterday there. This time armed with some AD08R's, and surprisingly dry, sunny weather ! Opentrack did a great job of giving us 2 different layouts, initially the long version then after lunch the cool one with the corkscrew bit. The Yoko's performed very well indeed, zero problems with them and quick to stabilise pressure (34 hot). And once again these DCT-70's are extremely good, and this time I could lean on them a lot harder (a little continually too much at one point with a big lock up hehe). Zero issues with fade, and always there for you. The only thing with all pads you seem to get is knockback, so you some times just need to prime the brake pedal (a quick tap to get pressure behind the piston again). So @Adrian@TORQEN will hopefully have a set of Stoptech 2 piece floating discs soon which should improve that. I'm using TYP200 fluid and haven't had an issue with that stuff, just need to change it now (I think 3 or 4 track days is fine, then probably best to put fresh in there). As mentioned before, the pads are very dusty so make sure you clean off the wheels when you can. All in all, I'm still very, very impressed.
  13. I just wanted to say another thank you to again @Adrian@TORQEN You've become my 'dealer' More bits and bobs to come, and I'll add it to the relevant threads in due course
  14. My one will be available in a week or two if you aren't happy with that one.
  15. RobPhoboS


    I have a pair of fronts only with 1 week old Pilot Sport 4 tyres. As usual, they need a refurb (I'm down near Junc 8 M25 though), anyway I'll post everything up on a separate thread soon.



  • Create New...