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polaris

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    Brighton, West Sussex

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  1. Ok, let's try this again. Big thanks to @Stutopia for sorting it out. It's been a while since I last updated you all on the Z. I always seem to be buying something or working on it here and there. First item on the agenda: sticky clutch pedal. I noticed my clutch pedal sticking in hot weather or in stop-start traffic so I bought a clutch service kit from Tarmac Sportz. This includes an uprated slave cylinder, HEL braided line and Motul RBF 600 clutch fluid. This seems to have sorted it as no more sticking! At the same time, I fitted a run-of-the-mill aluminium undertray from Tarmac Sportz. The new slave cylinder and line. As you can see, the original doesn't look a day over 70... As it stood. After messing about for three hours trying to bleed the bloody thing properly! Applied a thin layer of grease around the rubber boot to make it last that little bit longer (likely makes no difference). I realised I routed the line the wrong way so when I get the chance I'll sort it out. Fear not. Bought loads of Nissan OEM parts from Japan in preparation for 'the big job'. Who would've thought it's cheaper to get parts shipped all the way from Japan than to buy them in the UK? - Valve covers & gaskets - Rubber exhaust mounts (already fitted; see below) - Sun visor clips (both of mine had broken; already fitted) - Rubber oil cap filler neck - Fuel cap (the plastic line had broken on mine so I couldn't 'dangle' it off the filler cap; already fitted) - Red battery positive terminal cover (half of mine was missing for some reason; already fitted) - Gaskets: Throttle body, air intake manifold and upper air intake plenum Replaced all the exhaust mounts and gaskets (obviously not pictured). Nissan OEM mounts and original Milltek 3" gaskets to go with 8.8 zinc-plated bolts. Pretty sure I had a minor exhaust leak on one of the gaskets. My true ground-up project, a 1995 Suzuki Cappuccino, all stripped down in preparation for sandblasting early next year.
  2. I thought that too but I couldn't see any evidence that there had ever been tabs to begin with. Thanks anyway
  3. I'm back again with more questions. For some reason the connectors from the engine wiring loom don't 'click' into place on the VTC solenoids. The little tabs are there on the male VTC connector but the long tabs on the female wiring loom connectors are flat (I've tried to illustrate this below). It wouldn't be an issue if the connectors didn't slowly work themselves loose over time. To stop this I've just zip-tied them together. Anyone else had this issue? From what I've worked on previously on the Z, all the other connectors click into place. Zip-tied both connectors together Left (missing the 'click' tab) vs. Right (how I think they should be)
  4. Hello and welcome. Sony do some nice double DIN head units; I had the XAV-AX5650 installed in my Z. You can find it on my build log.
  5. A proper headlight restoration. Lights were sanded back and then automotive clear coat was applied. Done by a friend of the family so didn't cost me a penny. Really makes the entire car look better. Noticed the bonnet latch assembly was pretty dirty and full of old grease so I cleaned that up too. Fresh grease was applied to the contact points and moving parts. P/S Before D/S Before D/S After P/S After After After Before After
  6. For some tools it's worth it. My Knipex and Wera tools, for example, will last a long long time. Much more enjoyable to use also I've just had my Z UpRev'd, find more info here To summarise, you can't get much more out of them without going down the FI route
  7. 350Z's are metric. There might be some JIS screws but I haven't come across one yet. My Cappuccino, on the other hand, is full of them. Can't go wrong with a Halfords Advanced set. Think I bought the 175pc, good quality
  8. I'll take the Brake cover, mine has a broken clip. Is it in good condition? Happy to pay postage, let me know. Thanks
  9. UpRev tune today @ Horsham Developments. Final result was a hair over 300 HP. I thought it be best to get it UpRev'd as I'd done a few breather mods. I'm not sure how this compares to other 350Z RevUp's but Jez said it was putting out a good number. Car also feels much happier to build RPM in lower gears. Modifications: HKS air filter Berk HFCs H-Dev plenum spacer Miltek cat-back exhaust Flywheel Power (HP) Power (HP)
  10. Another busy week with the Z. The wear sensor on one of the D/S rear pads started grinding against the disc. I then realised that they were the OEM discs from the factory! Quite a large lip had developed from the many brake pads over the years so I knew they had to go. I don't like taking half measures so I went with some nice StopTech slotted discs and DBA pads from Tarmac Sportz. I also bought new calliper hardware (pins, cross springs & clips) from TORQEN. Big thanks to Chris @ Tarmac Sportz. He sorted me out with a great deal on short notice. All 4 brake dust shields are crumbling away. I plan to powder coat some new dust shields so they should last much longer and look the business. Products StopTech Slotted Discs (ST126.42079SL+R) DBA Street Pads (DB1521SS) Liqui Moly 3074 Anti-Squeal Brake Paste Liqui Moly 3318 Rapid Brake Cleaner Brass & steel wire brushes Dremel 442 carbon steel brushes StopTech Slotted Discs & DBA Street Pads Products I assumed the contact point between the wheel hub assemblies and discs was going to be pretty rough. Bought some brushes and carbon steel Dremel attachments to get them back to clean and shiny. The beginning Old D/S Brake Pads Either one brake pad was replaced and not the other or maybe it froze it place? Possibly the previous mechanic didn't properly clean, prepare and grease the pads? Old P/S Brake Pads Same story. Could one of the calliper pistons have seized up? I'll keep a close eye on the new pads. D/S Wheel Hub Assembly After cleaning Liqui Moly Anti-squeal brake paste Disc & calliper back on Brake pads in P/S Wheel Hub Assembly Cleaned and lathered up New disc on Same as D/S
  11. Looks like I'll get a set then! Do you notice any difference? Reckon I should import Z1's or just get Tarmac's? TORQEN also do a few different brands. What do you recommend? Thanks
  12. Thanks. I did consider a lightweight crank pulley but I read somewhere about losing the harmonic balance? Tarmac do a nice full set so I might replace them when I sort the tensioners.
  13. It's been a minute. I've been quite busy keeping the Z on the road. First, the A/C belt split right down the middle. I think the tensioners are worn but I didn't have new parts to hand so I cleaned them up the best I could. Replaced both belts with Gates. I'll also replace both tensioners soon. Split A/C belt New dual-channel belt technology Gates belts All fitted Nice and clean tensioner Second, I noticed the P/S radiator fan wasn't spinning and the D/S fan was a bit slow. I followed the forum guide to fix them but to no avail (funnily enough, the D/S motor stopped working and the P/S motor started working). Nissan wanted something ridiculous like £250 per motor but you can get near identical replacements on eBay for £40. The only negative I found was that the wiring is slightly longer. Failed fix attempt Cleaning the radiator shroud Spotless OEM Motor (left) vs eBay motor (right) New motors fitted
  14. Roughly a year since I bought my Z
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