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Everything posted by polaris

  1. New bonnet struts and a little engine bay detail. Need to figure out a way to get the plenum nice and clean. Bonnet Struts Engine Bay Before Engine Bay After
  2. Technically, assuming 350Z prices lag slightly, the recent GBP/USD crash should benefit you if you buy now. Also, you'll essentially be hedging against inflation and currency fluctuations as the value of a 350Z should increase long-term (3-5 years). I'm no economics expert but that's how I understand it. For some accurate data I tracked using Fuelio: Average mileage per month: 484 Average cost per month: £213.38 Average fuel consumption: 24.51 mpg I travel mostly short distances except when I head into work roughly once a week. I drive how it's supposed to be driven but I don't rag it. Road tax is the killer at £660 a year with insurance coming in at £800 which is reasonable for my age.
  3. Like @Azurez33 said, double check where you can. Check all the injectors, plugs and coils. Don't just glance and say 'ok', crank it and look for a spark on all 6. If still no luck, then do a bit of research around NATS failure. See if the symptoms match yours. Maybe a hard ECU reset? It would really be helpful if we had a video of the car cranking! Also, is it an import? How many miles?
  4. I see what you mean - the wear is nearly identical. I'll definitely get it sorted. It's now on the list! Thanks for the recommendation.
  5. Regarding three of your replies @spxntaneous_Z. I'd look again. I believe that Nissan specialists can run further diagnostics if he wants to pop down to a garage. If it's NATS immobiliser failure (it can happen) then you can bypass it with an UpRev map (£449). Horsham Developments are the people for that job. Read more here. Quoting that website: EDIT: Regarding... I'd pull the injectors and check them. No harm in it.
  6. Remember: air, fuel and spark. Ensure you have those three key ingredients first before you do anything.
  7. Time for a bit of leather care. The photos don't do the difference justice (due to image size restrictions). Leather Cleaner: Gliptone Liquid Leather Cleaner Leather Care: Autoglym Leather Care Balm Brush: SONAX - Leather & Upholstery Brush Applied both products using a clean microfibre. I agitated the leather cleaner using the brush. Seat Before After Bolster Before After Headrest Before During After (it was slightly wet when I took the photo, no cause for alarm)
  8. I've found them mate, but I appreciate the offer. I wasn't clear in my previous reply, these were the type I needed. I've already tried them and they fit perfectly. I was just comparing to the other types I had.
  9. I'd already tried that type and a slightly longer version (for the front bumper) and neither fit. I bought these instead and they match with what came off the car.
  10. Answering my own question here but whatever. I've just found the "Head Lamp Cleaner" assembly on 7zap.com. I clearly wasn't looking hard enough! EDIT: Additionally, I've also found this - It's for the 370Z but looks identical to the one I've got.
  11. That actually isn't the clip I'm looking for. I've tried that type and a longer version (both recommended on this forum) and neither fit. The clip I'm looking for has three "prongs".
  12. I don't know what you mean by "standard"? I know for sure that there are at least two different types of plastic front bumper clips. The type you sell, the type I bought, didn't fit, hence why I asked.
  13. Hi all, Does anyone know where I can find the schematics for the UK 350Z variant? I'm currently using 7zap.com but it's clearly for a different model as the headlight washers on the front bumper are missing. I've checked the other available schematics and I still can't find it. More specifically, I'm trying to hunt down the part number for the push clip in the photo. It's from the front bumper but, like the headlight washers, it's missing from the schematics. I would just chance it online, but I'd rather be sure before I buy. Thanks in advance
  14. Cleaned the MAF sensor today just for the sheer fun of it (apparently, they should be cleaned every 50,000 miles). There was actually a tiny bit of muck which I managed to very satisfyingly blast out. I did another PSF reservoir change. For anyone else thinking about doing it, you'll need roughly 225ml worth of PSF to fill up the reservoir to just under the cold maximum.
  15. Decided to run a can of BG 44K Platinum (£22.50 from Amazon) through the system. It's nearly a 16-year-old car so I thought why not. I've listed my current fuel stats (tracked with Fuelio) below and I'll compare them once I've travelled a similar distance. This testing wouldn't find itself in a peer-reviewed journal but no harm in it. Current fuel stats: AVG: 24.62MPG over 2,657 miles BEST: 30.15MPG (over a full tank)
  16. I used one of these kits to suck out all the fluid in the PSF reservoir. I believe the reservoir only holds roughly 1/3 of the total volume so I'm not getting it all out but I wanted to keep it simple. In a few weeks, once new is mixed with old, I'll do one last change which should remove a bit more old fluid. I can confidentially say that the steering is now much smoother and lighter. Only downside now is that each pothole gives more feedback to the steering
  17. Thanks Dave, the juddering is slowly disappearing which I assume is air being worked out of the system. A quick drive around some bendy roads and following your advice did the trick.
  18. Slowly changing the 16 year-old power steering fluid with genuine Nissan Power Steering Fluid (KE909-99931). I'm doing it piecemeal over the course of the next few weeks to ensure most of the original fluid is changed. I've completed two PSF reservoir changes so far and the steering already feels much smoother. Though admittedly, this could be placebo talking. This was partly changed due to an issue with the PSF bubbling/boiling after a semi-spirited drive so I'm hoping this will sort it. See a video of the problem here. After changing the fluid, with the engine on and front wheels in the air, there is a slight but noticeable juddering when turning the steering left to near full-lock. Weirdly, this refuses to repeat itself when turning the steering full-lock to the right. Any ideas? If so, why does this only occur to the left? See update below. UPDATE: The steering now judders slightly at low speeds (<5 mph). I'm thinking a bit of air in the system or possibly the fresh fluid is less viscous and thus letting air in somehow? I never started the car when replacing the fluid to avoid running the PS pump dry but I did alternate the steering full-lock left and right to squeeze out as much fluid as possible. As always, I appreciate any advice. After numerous Google searches, I have concluded that there's air in the power steering system. Thankfully, this is an easy fix by alternating the steering full-lock left and right several times with the car on the ground. I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back! Old power steering fluid (assuming 2006 original): New genuine Nissan power steering fluid:
  19. Just a quick update: I spoke to a local engineering shop who offered to weld/mill out the 4 sheared brake bleed screws for £100. Only issue is that I now need to take 3 of the 4 calliper's off to give to them... fun times.
  20. Think I'll have to take the caliper off? I'm thinking: disconnect brake line, drain fluid from caliper, weld nut, remove, sorted.
  21. You could eat off that underbody, how is it so clean/rust free?
  22. Yep, replacing both screws on each caliper. The last brake fluid change was back in 2019 so I reckon someone just ridiculously over-torqued them. The service manual states 13.5NM but I've found these titanium screws require at least 20NM to stop brake fluid from escaping. Could be due to a slightly different screw shape or damage to the caliper threads. I could trying welding a nut on...
  23. A while back I sheared off a brake bleed screw trying to bleed a caliper. I wanted to get this sorted quickly so I decided to replace them all with stronger titanium bleed screws. Despite the fact I applied copious amounts of WD-40 Penetrant and lightly tapped each screw with a hammer, three more sheared off at around 50NM At least the new screws looks great... Any ideas on the best way to get these out? I was thinking drill out as much material as possible then hit them with a high-quality screw extractor. Might re-tap depending on the quality of the threads. New titanium bleed screw and genuine Brembo dust cap: Old Brembo bleed screws: The worst outcome:
  24. Most likely. If annually serviced (assuming it's moved a bit) then it'll be fine, could do with a good long run though to break in though if it's been sitting
  25. The "old car + low mileage = crap/won't work" axiom doesn't really apply here as 9k miles at least means the engine has had a run in. Who expects 18 stamps with 9k miles? Madness
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