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About Jack94


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  1. So long as you're happy with whatever you decide that's the main thing. If the extra hassle isn't worth the money for you then that's fair enough. It's a shame your zed ownership is ending like this but good luck with your next car
  2. If the dealer will give you the same price whether the car is on standard Rays or LMGT4's it'd be a no brainer for me. Definitely worth covering the courier cost or taking a trip to pick up the Rays Mikey has mentioned, you'd end up with around an extra grand in your pocket. Also I'd take the private plate off and get that up for sale if you haven't already?
  3. Paint job looks great but isn't the Nismo decal upside down?
  4. Are you running standard wheel/tyre sizes? And are your tyres all fairly evenly worn? When I first got my zed I had a similar problem which turned out to be because the tyres on the back were brand new and the ones on the front were close to the limit. The stability control system is pretty sensitive and the difference in rolling radius between the axles was upsetting it.
  5. I've got the Invidia Gemini paired with Torqen HFCs, it's the perfect level of noise for me. Not so overly loud it's offensive, no drone but sounds brilliant when you put your foot down. Ark Grip is another great option, not sure how it compares to the invidia on sound levels but it's a popular option because of its great looks/quality. On the louder end of the spectrum you could look into tomei, they use titanium rather than stainless steel so their stuff is much lighter. Depending on your budget you could also look into the Motordyne Shockwave.
  6. +1 for Autosol. I use a little on a microfibre cloth every time I wash the car, it takes barely any time/effort to keep the tips looking like new. Sadly nothing is going to keep them shiny for long though because as soon as the engines running the carbon will start building back up, especially if you've got decats/HFCs.
  7. You can get both belts from one of the traders on here (Torqen, Tarmacsportz etc) or from any Nissan dealership for about the same price (£40). They're dead easy to change- jack the front of the car up, remove the engine undertray, slacken the bolt for each tentioner, remove the belts, fit new ones, tighten tensioner bolts, re-fit undertray, job done
  8. The bite point is just high on the 350z, so if that's your only "issue" there's probably nothing wrong with your clutch. If you were upgrading to aftermarket parts I'd see the point but if you're sticking with oem you might as well wait until it starts slipping to replace it. The original clutch on mine has seen 65000 and still going strong.
  9. I seriously doubt there would be any difference whatsoever, let alone one you'd actually notice. If there's nothing wrong with your current Y pipe I wouldn't waste the money.
  10. Also never used you guys for anything, simply because you're too far away from me. Only ever heard good things from the guys on here though so I'd happily let you look after my zed if you were closer.
  11. It's not available straight out the box but it can be done thanks to @cs2000 and his electrical wizardry.
  12. I would be interested if mine hadn't already had an Uprev tune by the guys at Horsham.
  13. Got an air blower or pressure washer? If so you could try and blasting it out, that's what I normally do.
  14. Good points but there are some brands (e.g. Invidia) which have joints to allow movement without the need for flexi's. Like Davey has said, sadly even without ever scraping it's usually the flexi's that fail first due to their design.
  15. I'd probably go with Stillen personally because it doesn't have any flexi joints, which are usually what tends to fail first.





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