RobPhoboS

Maybe they can walk to China and let those guys know, via India fristly.

This is very cool btw, and ties in a wee bit:

Is the 'ghost cam' for a lumpy idle ?

Thanks for letting me know ! The only problem I have is that the machinists I'm using don't have a line bore machine. So it would be easier for me to use the standard oem bolts if I have problems with the ARP main studs. They didn't say I would, just that it has a chance. Yes that's right the C8's (I've been using them since Feb) but I was having some issues with my car's power dropping off, after a initially good dyno. Looking at the main bearings, something got in there and caused some damage! The valve seats also had some pitting from particles of grid coming through the intake at some point (most likely on my old intake setup). If I get a chance this weekend I'll start my thread too, although the photo's at the moment will just be the dismantling point

That would be excellent to know, as they aren't particularly cheap Our builds are quite similar, I'm also using the same pistons but Manley connecting rods, JWT cams/springs but yours is more fruity in comparison ! Did you use ACL's 'race' bearings or the standard ones ?

Ah glad you posted again as all of my stuff is currently at the machinists ! With your ARP main studs, did you have any crank bore distortion ? Or did they line bore it for them ? I have the ARP studs as well, and it's something I can't find any info on regarding our block if it typically causes some clearance issues or not.

Everything in my shopping basket, and some nice new front upper camber arms

I have an Milwaukee right angled impact ratchet thingy for tight spaces: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07BBQRN99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And for most jobs I've been using a Kielder 1/2 drive impact wrench, a few on amazon have complained but I use my one nearly every weekend since Jan 2017 ! Kielder KWT-002-03 Also they offer a service for £40 https://www.kielder.co/collections/spares/products/fixed-price-repair-service-kwt-012-impact-wrench Top tip - no matter what you buy, always get 2 batteries ! I'm impressed with both but do look at the warranty you get. I really like Kielder for offering a 3 year warranty and the servicing which in the UK

Fantastic stuff ! I shall get my thread going too, a few little bits and bobs should arrive today

Dont forget to keep taking and uploading photos as you go along!

Be very careful with that engine. The bearings suck !!!

I'm not selling or buying but I'd go to a Cayman S for that rough price range. Depends what you want it for?

Heh good to have the contrast with the Z ! It's my fathers old Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin, hopefully it starts up and works. It'll be good for winter driving, just to get to the gym and see family. I should be good to start around the end of the month, all being well !

I'll be pulling my one apart soon too, just need to collect a 2nd car next weekend (hopefully) to run around whilst this happens. So there are at least 3 n/a builds happening on the forum now

Definitely get some pics of the new place up mate, it's looking great !

Not a full set but I have front wheels with 1 week old MPS4 , and worn but legal rear tyres (not rear wheels unfortunately): https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/124037-350z-bits-and-pieces-for-sale-tyresdecatscams/

Nice one, I'm ordering my last bits and pieces too very, very soon! Would you be able to PM or post up you compression/leak down results ?

I'm on a replacement set (as per review you probably saw), no issues with the updated/revised seals they did (I think it's v3/2018 design). I do check fairly regularly due to what happened with the old set. I initially had the v2 design and had signs of weeping on the front right shock, and it was definitely knackered. However they were fantastic with support and sorting out the other set. Also as mentioned a plethora of times, I have metal/spherical bushings so I find it to be fairly harsh on the surrey roads (which are generally in terrible conditions) but that's not the fault of the GT1's. They do a decent enough job of smoothing things out, and would be nice on oem or hard race rubber bushings I'd imagine. I like them, and have no desire of upgrading as the next step up is more than double I think (like 350Butchers - which are amazing).

I can't read it aside from the first paragraph and that was enough.

Yep, he did say that the dyno figures that out, and you can go see the difference it calculates. As to how accurate it is, we're not totally sure. However, yes it's quite a difference in conditions! (more so for humidity iirc) I guess technically the C8's fit and work but like all aftermarket cams, not optimally out of the box. I didn't expect the difference to be quite like this, granted the rings clearly aren't helping eh. Thank you for taking a look

Yep still stock fuel pump and injectors (I do plan on changing injectors but wasn't sure about pump). I was initially thinking that the timing could have been out by 1 tooth as someone on the US forum had the same problem, and almost same parts. They had it on the ex cam chains (no sensor for exhaust unfortunately on DE).

The problem is the size (that's why I was checking where you are). I don't think I can drop it off at a local place (shop), I'll have to see what the max parcel size is.

Where are you based ? (I have a Cobra that I need to upload photo's of to my for sale thread)

This is going to be a bit of a long post, apologies ! 2004 350z - DE - 135k (burning a bit of oil but no streams of smoke! - full bottom end rebuild this coming winter - funds pending) Dyno session 1 Over Christmas I did my timing chain (no issues before, just age/mileage) and I decided to do cams (JWT C8), springs, revup oil pump, water pump etc. On the first dyno session, aside from these things done the car had stock headers, stock intake, straight pipes, cobra sports y-pipe back (2x 2.5" to 3", then 3" back). Intake temp:10 deg (Feb) 310bhp (@fly) (it's a comparison to my first dyno there back in Nov 2012) WHP/AFR Dyno session 2 The next dyno session I had added the following by this point: Kaaz 1.5 diff Z1 'Race' intake with the large 6" velocity stack and filter Kinetix Velocity 75mm TB Note - the very first runs we did had the stock intake connected, we noticed it was down and thought it was odd. So I then installed the Z1 intake but the dyno was the same. So my initial conclusion was that the Kinetix was causing the loss but clearly started to extend the power curve further to the right. hmmm I had assumed (with a couple of other folks) that my car could breath in properly but not out, however it doesn't seem that was really the full issue. Intake temp: 24 deg (May) 292bhp (@ fly) WHP/AFR Dyno session 3 PPE long tube headers (JWT advised spec on these). HP Ignition coilpacks (decided to refresh them as I had original ones on the car). Fresh plugs. Motordyne XYZ-pipe with resonator. Intake temp: 25-27 deg (Aug) 300bhp (@fly) Pink line is from May, so you can see the PPE's have gained at the lower end at least. Knock detection disabled (was troubleshooting idea) Once again comparison to Feb (WHP) Ok, so we made the low end come up nicer now, and the curve itself looks quite nice - however, the numbers aren't, in comparison to my initial run of the year. Jez also disabled the knock sensor for a couple of runs too, just in case that was causing a problem, it made a few more hp but nothing obviously wrong there. This seems like either the Kinetix is struggling for some reason (but hasn't on other cammed NA cars - it stretches the power curve to the right), or something else has gone wrong (timing?). Engine parts as of August 2019: Uprev tune Kinetix Velocity plenum JWT C8 Cams & springs Z1 3" Race intake with 6" velocity stack/large filter Ferra stem seals PPE Longtube headers (spec advised by JWT) RevUp oil pump Motordyne resonated Y-pipe 3" back Cobra Sports resonated exhaust New waterpump/timing chain/gallery gaskets/o-rings etc Stock heads/bottom end (rebuilding in winter) Stock injectors HP Ignition coils I did a dry comp test back in Nov, the results were around 185-195psi. After doing the cams this year my compression was down to around 155psi. JWT said that the pressure would be down perhaps by 15psi but not to this extent. So maybe I didn't do the November testing correctly (I'm sure I did) but with this current one I know I did it properly for sure. I decided to do a wet compression test, followed a day later by a leak down test, here are my results: Wet Comp was about 7% more than dry (around 165psI). Leak Down (I'd imagine anything over 8% isn't ideal but I knew the rings are worn): So that confirms what I knew anyway, the rings are worn (no problem as bottom end stuff is waiting to go in). I couldn't hear any obvious air leaking or bubbles in the coolant overflow. Could that result just be a mix of the C8's/rings and the relatively low HP readings due to rings ? I've messaged back and forth with a few of you on here (plus JWT and the US forum), and your input has been hugely appreciated !

Yup, seems ok from the computer but definitely slow on the phone.