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evilscorp

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  1. Wasted too much time making this, but gave me lots of practice screwing up tig welding. not as nice as the tomei ti exhaust at the back... dont worrie I swapped the standard cat for a new one... which now got so warm on testing something started smoking. ordered a ford heat shield to try protect the passenger footwell as they dont make oem ones anymore.
  2. MOT was booked for today.... it didn't make it. Test drive yesterday shows the tune is way off and undrivable, tried a few things but just cant get it happy, still have a few things to check but I can't get my wideband to not read full lean, it was installed correctly but has already killed or had a bad AEM sensor. Going to try get it ready for a transporter to dynatune before MOT next month. Nissan make it nearly impossible to remove the airbag warning light.... and ive run out of time/patience.
  3. Just to update, its a solid cast so can be cut down without issue.
  4. Look on Z1 motorsports, basically have all the internal parts and usually decribes which model they come from (mostly 09/04 + gearboxes have the same bits inside give or take a few things) ** Well they used to, seems its a bit scarce now of parts**
  5. Anyone know if the uk finn'd diff jacking point (the knob) is hollow or solid cast? Looking to cut mine down as its too low to the ground on my 200sx and I cant get my jack under it/potential to catch on speed bumps/debris. I intend to cut it down half the size.
  6. Not updated in a long time but car now starts on its new brain, a few beep boops and the injectors are no longer dumping fuel out the exhaust, which was also not fun to learn to tig weld on. I intend to make a high cell cat or buy a 200cell one off ebay once I get it mot'd tried not to warp the metal by finding the biggest bolt i could.
  7. Welcome along, forums have always been the best way to search for good information.
  8. That rust isnt bad, but I would start to get on top of it, wire wheel and then usual underbody treatments. however I would probably take the braces off and get them powdercoated for better protection. As for the subframe its totally normal for a blind man with no care for how much filler rod to have done the rear subframe. They are alu so as long as there are no cracks its fine. You dont have the same problem as old s-chassis with steel subframes cracking the 350z one is beefy enough.
  9. 6'' lift is a lot, this would probably require a full adjustable arm kit as well to keep the geometery setup correct. you can probably get about 1-2'' with bc suspension or similar setup but air suspension and top mount plates and other mods would be required to lift it that high, also the angle of your driveshafts will be out and they also might be streched leading to chance of failure. Bigger tyres as mentioned above helps but it comes with its own problems, tyre scrub on wheelarches, reduced steering angle etc... For an injured back I wouldnt take the risk and buy a different car.
  10. evilscorp

    Fuel Sender

    https://youtu.be/nW5gaFfEKSo Something i found out the other day, not sure if its correct but mine does play up occasionally... but I don't drive it often, 1:30 in.
  11. How are you measuring speed? GPS signal to gauges? Or do you have a hall sensor hooked up somewhere. Looking good.
  12. Was in magazine back when it came out, don't know if I still have the issue, japanese performance or banzai.
  13. Dyna Tune- East Kilbride, TDi North (I think)-Cheshire, RS Tuning- Leeds, Then ABBY Motorsports and Horsham Developments Further down South, Is my geographical list of Uprev tuners that KNOW 350z's. Other companies will have mixed results and I don't know or recomend any others for 350Z tuning on the OEM ECU. Have a search on here but thats all I will say.
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