RobPhoboS

Most of my links are spherical bushings, I keep an eye on them but tbh they're fine.

Well, finally remap day ! I decided to head back to @Jez @ H-Dev as he originally mapped the car for me after I bought it from a forum member here, late 2012 (that's the red plot). Back then I had changed the exhaust (decats back), and a plenum spacer. Wow, the difference now is stark ! Yep, as expected a little loss lower down but once it picks up - VTECH YO ! I guess at this point it's phase 2 for the breathing, and for the next installment it'll be long tubes and potentially some fannying around with the intake manifold. I wanted to at least optimise what the cams can do as the engine is stock. Once the pistons/rods etc are done, I can see where it can go regarding hp/rpm. But even for now the difference really is bigger than what the graph indicates.

Manufacturers quote engine power, not engine power plus drive train losses. So 308 or whatever is the engine, not the power at the wheels.

This is all simple stuff. I'm using slotted StopTech discs from @Adrian@TORQEN, I use the car on track quite frequently and they've held up very well. Probably cheaper options but your decision of course. Tyres, ensure you have an alignment check every 6 months in the future, the check is free at various places. I've no idea about your car, so if it's all stock there is only a very limited amount they can adjust. But do post up an image of the current reading. Wheel bearing is another easy thing, check the traders or wherever you want. Anyone with a bearing press can do that, just ensure they clean the mating surfaces before inserting the new one. The brake 'pipe' - well what do they mean exactly ? Post some photo's please. Once again, if it's just the brake lines you can get new braided ones. If they mean the hardlines are corroded, then this is a different matter because changing that for another will take someone with some patience to swap out. It's not hard but time consuming !

I was trying to find some of your posts too, I'm sure I have the bookmarks saved on my computer at home. I'll have to have a dig around but it was a couple of the engine tear downs/builds at the Z'Shed. I've just got a few minor things to amend: Adjust the steering yoke again by about 1 spline. Find out where the washer fluid is leaking from. Double check the oil cooler lines aren't weeping. I've driven about 140 miles in total now, just keeping the revs and load low. I think I did about 5-10 miles on the millers running-in oil: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115257-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-mineral-engine-oil.aspx It was pretty smelly and horrid looking when it came out And now I've put another new filter and this back in, keeping an eye on it's consumption over the coming weeks: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-115239-millers-oils-nanodrive-cfs-10w-50-nt-full-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx I've already largely decided on the bottom end bits for next Christmas

Some of these aren't 'how to' but a useful bit of reference. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/601910-diy-how-to-install-cams-and-valve-springs.html http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/Valve Clearance Calculator/index.php (quite useful if your maths suck) Channels with various vids: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCadOLfGM1xXklgwEjzKYJNA/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/simplydriftt/videos Radiator core support: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKhW2wRJbzY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKnAXaXCOzo You don't need to separate everything, just primarily (on my 04 at least), disconnect the power steering lines on the inside of the engine bay, and of course the AC (after evacuating it). AC lines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMMoi25Dpws Power Steering: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_D3YFyA024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_D3YFyA024 Coolant filling/bleeding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KajR7MTY84E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VH1y1k4IZI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFY3iduvjxM (about 19 mins in) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fjjdomygfk (clear info in the 'description' part too) Valve Covers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyBWwgSLEcM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrQOnKUhw58 Engine guts stuff: Go to Christian Lopez's channel, it has 90% of what you need, he did an excellent job going slowly and showing you what's involved. (cams/buckets specific) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeZxxJA-pPQ Timing specific: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3WCcCa2dto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApLFUgESFTw https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-replace-your-vq35de-timing-chain/ These guys used WAY too much sealant towards the end but once again, it's useful to see. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1UnTHKkP3Q Clutch bleeding: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/601603-how-to-bleed-clutch.html Useful ref pics: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/104807-brads-full-engine-rebuild-done-in-running-mot-passed/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81874-another-engine-rebuild-at-the-zed-shed-new-update-p4/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/118434-my-na-de-build/ These are the main ones I can think of for now.

I forgot to say that I used some of this as well before I took it apart. Redline Fuel System Cleaner (300 miles apx) Before: After: I think it did a pretty decent job, I may run another bottle of it. Just a few oddsNsods to sort out before having the remap done, and as promised I'll start doing the resources compilation too.

Great advert (aside from only writing the price in one spot that's not obvious ) and what a great example ! GLWS !

It could be several things, so it's just logically working out what's going on. Aside from spark plugs it could be a failing coil pack but you need to test each one (check YouTube). You can buy a cheap tester online to help diagnose if it is. If you're going to do some work yourself, get a couple of suitable torque wrenches, one for engine stuff (so like 2nm-24nm), and one for wheels/bigger stuff (20nm-200nm appx). If you don't have it, get the fsm: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/ And as you're newish to it, make sure you are using higher octane fuel (vpower for ex).

Since you're in Scotland, message ZMANALEX he probably has used ones. New OEM Nissan ones will be pretty expensive I think.

'I am only selling this piece of motoring mayhem because I don't use it enough and my daughter wants another horse!!!' Uh huh

Red_rider: 'Decent' - no (although that depends on your expectation of the word) You may well be able to find a (dog) example of a Z unless you happen to be lucky but I think perhaps you should read more posts, look/read before you leap. Search for the typical things that need maintenance and then how much it costs to sort out. Unless you have a decent budget (time/tools or reputable garage) for the work it'll undoubtedly need...be careful and see a few examples first.

Same here, you learn something new every day ! Good info chaps

Hi Martin, Many thanks again, just arrived this morning

I guess it doesn't matter too much as to what you go for as long as you can adjust height and rebound/comp (to suit). Just bare in mind looking at people's reviews, most of the time they're coming from completely knackered shocks to new one's, so they're obviously going to feel better. Plus not many people will say something is crud if they've spent hard earned money on it. There are a huge bunch of drifters posting on YouTube, so worth looking at them too.

Going back through your posts and photos is excellent, which reminds me later in the week I'll pop up the resources I used too.

Many thanks ! I have a lot more reference photo's as well, so anyone is welcome to PM me to ask if there's is something they are looking for. The bits that had me stumped for a few mins were the alternator/pulley brackets, as there is a certain order that it must go back in. Unfortunately I couldn't find that in the FSM. And lastly the 1 plug I couldn't figure out but Keyser came to the rescue ! I was using RTV from a 40g tube, however it's pretty hard to squeeze out. I tried using a little syringe, it works out much better although I should have bought a longer one. (and yep I filled a gap I missed after the pic) These 'wobble' sockets are amazing ! They came to the rescue a fair few times where you can't get a good angle. This might help for ref, just where the brackets go - note, put the power steering one and torque it first before the alternator This is the connector that I couldn't find the home for. It's on the end of the horn wire and I couldn't spot where it went. @Keyser Suggested it was above the AC tube thing, in front of the rad but behind the plastic core, and he was right (of course). It was possible to click it back into place after removing the alu crash bar, so not difficult. I'll post up some photo's of various tools and bits I used later this week. I really hate the hose clamps, I'd like to change them all out, either to refresh them or a different design. Total bugger to work with at times so I'll get proper hose clamp pliers anyway. Any recommendations for pliers or new style clamps would be excellent ! I managed to fire her up last night ! Ran the cams in for a bit and took her for a very short, 2nd gear drive around the block (2-2.5k), just to get a little bit of temp in the oil etc. I've just got to re-align the steering yoke, 1 spline out and bleed the clutch And then I'll go for a longer drive (keeping it in the 2-2.5k rpm range) before dropping the running-in oil. Torqen, JWT, 350Butcher, ZMANALEX, Keyser have been absolutely awesome! Many thanks again for the help chaps ! I've got to say that choosing products from JWT was better than I had expected too. I needed to ask a few questions, and they've given me some nice detailed information that I couldn't find online. I can't imagine some other companies doing that, and I wouldn't really expect them to after they've sold their product. I've still got a load of stuff to sort out over the coming months, and I'm sure this time next year I'll end up doing the 'rings/pistons

Yep, you are correct ! Flaky little blighter now unfortunately, so I'll be replacing it and the power steering cooler when I can.

Spot on mate! I only had to remove the crash bar and had enough wiggle room. Thank you very much, I owe you a donut or two (ref pic for anyone else, I'll put it in my other main thread too)

Ahh, I did have a look at that too. I'm going to blame my lack of beer for not seeing it if that's the case Many thanks, I shall get out there shortly and hopefully come back with good news!

Literally the last plug that I'm trying to work out where the hell it goes I certainly won't have the horn without this! It comes off of the back the top left (looking at the engine) horn but I can't see anything else it could go into. Inside the black shroud it has white plastic insides, and a bit of orange (if that's any help).

Meister R GT1's. You're better off giving information on how much you want to spend, what you intend to use the car for... (track/daily/fun/drift etc)

Doesn't sound like you're burning loads but I'd recommend using a high quality oil. I like Millers NANODRIVE CFS, and whatever grade you are happy to use. What year is your Z ?

Only a small update for now The FSM shows to use RTV here, well from what I can see ? But I've seen people fill the gap on the right/left of the P shape, which seems wrong to me. I copied @350Butcher by using the guide rods, reduce the RTV being smeared. I hate doing the RTV, I'm perpetually scared of too much or too little ! Just for comparison, old Nissan chain on the left, new OEM version on the left. Note, it's 30g heavier. It looks the same to me Timed, just waiting for a couple of gaskets now, oh and 1 bolt. No 13 on the rear timing case decided to spin then snap

Alex, do you have a Shell tanker following you too ? Hah, I'd dread to think how much those bad boys drink !!