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About DeeJayDready

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  • Birthday July 30


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  1. Yikes... It's crazy there isn't a UK-based distributer available to avoid all that nonsense.
  2. I think I'll have to pass. They do look good fitted by the looks of things. But £80 is the price of a brand new set from Nengun, and they'd be the version with the hole in the O (40220-RN810) rather than the solid circle (40220-RN800), which for consistency reasons I would prefer. Couldn't see me paying more than £50 for a set of wheel nuts (even new ones) to be honest, it just seems crazy... But if anyone is looking rid of a set of these in decent nick (ideally the 40220-RN810 style) for £50, let me know. Anyone know what the deal is with the two different Nismo logos in general?
  3. Yeah, if you could check the length. I wouldn't want the long length ones as presumably they'd stick out. I'm still in two minds to be honest. I don't mind the current ones to be honest. But I do have a feeling those would look nice. How much would you want for them?
  4. Are those the 34mm 'standard length' or the 50mm 'long length' set? Is one of them different? (i.e. doesn't say 'nismo' on it)
  5. Yeah, that'd probably look pretty tidy alright. I imagine the black would stand out less and would show off all the centre holes better. Do you have a pic of what they look like fitted on standard LMGT4 G35 wheels? If @ZMANALEX or someone had a spare set in good nick I could be tempted.
  6. Finally got the underseal done last week, as the weather seemed perfect for it... First I had it thoroughly 'MOT Washed' underneath to get all the crud and concentrated evil out of there. Then took it for a nice spin in the sunshine / baking heat, to dry it out. I bought 5L jerrycans of both the Bilt Hamber Dynax-UB & Dynax-UC, so there was plenty to work with. When all was said and done there was still a little over half of each jerrycan left (to use on the Hyundai Coupe TSIII next month), so the estimate of about 4L (2L + 2L) per car was about right. The UC drys clear so it was used arches and sills. I think that's what was applied to the box sections and up into any pre-existing drainage holes as well. The UB drys black/brown (and is slightly more durable), so it was used on the main chassis. My guy is genuine and easily paid. It took him about 3½ / 4 hours to prep and underseal the car (i.e. cover up some paintwork, remove the wheel-arch liners etc., get it up on the ramp and apply the wax. £150 for the labour in the end + £101.36 for the Bilt Hamber wax. Pretty happy with that as it seems a good job, and I still have more than enough wax to do the TSIII. Total = £251.36 (with tonnes of wax to spare)
  7. Just a heads up that there seems to be another 50% Off sale on discs & pads at Euro Car Parts at the minute in case anyone is looking.
  8. When I ordered mine from EuroCarParts there was a sale on. Got the lot for £284.47. What that guy's selling costs nearly double that with no guarantee. I'd pass...
  9. Yeah, that's what I went for. These are the proper stock parts. Just note that you need 4 discs, but only 2 (sets of) pads. I initially ordered 4 sets of pads not realising a set covers both driver-side and off-side so had to cancel and reorder.
  10. So, after a fitting that didn't go at all to plan at a local auto electricians, I eventually got sorted by Aaron from 'Source In-Car', formerly of The Iceman, who did a fantastic job in no time. Pretty chuffed with the job and the unit. A quick firmware update and custom wallpaper later, and I'm in business!
  11. 1 10170036A Brembo Brake Pad (Front) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 1 10180011A Brembo Brake Pad (Rear) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 2 10470098A Brembo Brake Disc (Front) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 2 10470099A Brembo Brake Disc (Rear) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007
  12. So today I spoke with a guy from Bilt Hamber, my friend who's used several of their products on his MX-5, and the garage who have the ramps and compressor kit and who'll be doing the work, and I've now ordered up 5L of Dynax-UC and 5L of Dynax-UB. I'm planning on doing my lady friend's Hyundai Coupe TSIII at the same time, hence the 10 litres - the general consensus seems to be that it could take about 8L to do both and given that they only come in 5L jerrycans or 750ml aerosols, that was the way to go... The UC drys clear and supposedly best for the bits you can see like arches and sills, while the UB drys brown is for the main undersides and is even more durable and long-lasting. Fingers crossed it's a good job, but I do feel confident in the product. It seems to have a good track record of kicking ass in any of the accelerated performance tests people have done against a range of similar products (like Waxoyl etc.). Now I just need to discuss how thorough a job will be required. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-uc
  13. So the Pioneer AVH-Z5100DAB that I'd been looking at suddenly appeared on eBay (via Argos) out of nowhere for £308 a couple of weeks ago. Maybe a newer model is about to be launched or something? But prior to that, you definitely couldn't get a new one anywhere for less than £380. Amazon are still selling them for £450. I only spotted it yesterday, and naturally took the bait at that price. Cheers for the tips regarding the cabling folks. I'll let you know how I get on. I may even be best running a USB>lightning AND a 3.5mm Aux lead through to cover the bases? I've an iPhone7, and it looks like it will fit in the elbow cubby nicely with a lead connected. I'll probably want a bit of slack left on the cable(s) anyway, so I can take the phone out and have it in my hand while it's still connected.
  14. So I finally treated the Zed to the alloy refurb! I spoke to Nu Luk & Canavans and got quotes from both over the phone. Nu Luk do a paint + power-coat for £360, or £486 with diamond cut . Canavans was £320 - £360 for power-coat or £560 with diamond cut. To their credit both discouraged the diamond cut option as they just start corroding again straight away, and unless I want to undertake the meticulous weekly job of maintaining them (I do not...), then I'd be better off steering clear. Both places where great to deal with, and for anyone in N.Ireland I'd happily recommend both (as I've had work done at Canavans before), but this time I went with Nu Luk, as much down to the fact that they're closer to Belfast as anything to be honest. Have to say, I'm very pleased with the results. They did a great job on getting the metal back to its best (only the few faintest hints of tiny dimples here and there, but you have to really look for them). And they applied the decals as well. I don't regret my decision not to diamond cut in the slightest. The fact that not diamond cutting them took care of the centre caps as well was a great bonus too.



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