RobPhoboS

Everything is ordered now! I'll upload a few photos once it's arrived. So regarding the engine being held, I've seen that the straps can go under the engine mounts as they aren't attached to the upper oil pan. I've also watched several videos of people doing radiators and the manual shows it quite simply too (bl-19). Although I'm not entirely sure if I need to discharge the ac system and disconnect the lines going into the ac rad? I'll link up various videos and posts that I found useful. I started archiving some as well due to image hosting sites sometimes clearing stuff.

The rear end isn't pretty, and I like a pretty rear end.

I can see hints of 918 on the front too. Although I have to say my favourite generations are the 997, and 968. Not massively fussed about new stuff.

I can only echo that as well from the last couple of years taking the Z on track with these installed. A few times at Snetterton I had forgotten to soften them on the way to get some fuel, crikey could you feel the difference once on the road ! I've also installed the SPL front lower suspension bushings, and the outer tie rods too. So I think there's just one place now without a spherical bushings, which is the rear radius rod (is that same as traction link?) iirc.

Over the Christmas holidays, I'm going to get stuck in and replace the valve stem seals. And along with that, timing chain, oil/water pumps, o-rings, seals, cams/springs/shims. My car has been burning oil for some time, and at nearly 129k it's not really a surprise. I do look after it, especially as it gets a bit of abuse on track, so it does get regular oil changes and plenty of fannying about. I decided to do some investigating on Saturday night to do a dry comp test, I would have done the wet comp too but I was cold and hungry Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 6 I'm well aware that a comp test doesn't really tell you much, so a leak down is planned. I stuck my borescope cam down into each cylinder, they all seemed the same (a lot of burnt oil) but this was on cylinder 4: A little pooling of oil on top. Ok not conclusive but perhaps oil that dripped down via valve stem seal rather than rings? I seem to have the typical symptoms too (bit smokey on start up, it can sometimes smoke a little down hill coasting in gear). Not quite as bad now it has some thicker oil but I have seen it in the past when I've stopped at traffic lights or have given it a little shove and there's some smoke until it's burnt off I think (as it's not continuous). (not Sea Foam billowing) Yes, I'm sure the rings are also past it, I'll have to do that when I can, costs do leap up considerably. Apologies to 350zButcher as I've taken up far too much of his time But I appreciate all of the help and inspiration too!

This may not initially make much sense... New/Old However, I somehow ended up replacing like - for kind of like - but slightly updated ! As mentioned I had one coilover that was leaking, and the Meister R team made an offer I couldn't refuse One thing I will say before I get to writing up a hopefully improved summary, their customer service has been astounding ! (in the very positive sense) I'll hopefully be back after the weekend with some better photo's.

No. It's a superpro poly bushing (with caster adjustment)

Hey guys, I'm thinking about doing my timing chain and all the bits n bobs over Christmas (inc oil/water pump etc). I don't have any audible sounds that would indicate something is worn but I wondered if it's worth doing. The only thing is.. I'm more than likely to be doing a rebuild on the engine in the new year. A few upgrades but more just to have a strong engine for the track use. I guess I can check out the tensioner window and measure it. I know some people are on 150k + without changing it. Any thoughts?

Definitely no pressure I did have to use the rewind button once.. Because a fkn Audi rammed me off of the track!

Right... Bare in mind I'm not great heh but have an alright setup. 23 other cars on track. All assists off (no abs/tc/sc). I did, 1 out lap and 2 flying laps, dry and then wet. I made the cars as close as possible regarding power, tyres etc. And left the suspension default, and only minor adjustment on tyre pressure. VXR: Dry = 2:44.142 Wet = 2:48.138 350z Dry = 2:37.289 Wet = 2:41.429 Quite a difference! A pity more road cars aren't in Project Cars 2 as I'd be able to set the date/weather better too. That was fun, the vxr with everything off does lift off oversteer like mad, and under breaking hah.

Actually, I think I can recreate it on Forza I'll give it a go later!

Ahhhh ok. I'll be under it again later in the week, so no problem !

My 5th gear graunch happened at Snetterton a while back half way during the day It just suddenly happened for me. I called up Sly at Kaizer and asked for a bit of advice he said it was fine to drive around and avoid 5th gear. I dropped it off to him a few months later and had the gearbox refreshed where needed, inc new JWT clutch/flywheel. For me 5th and Reverse baulk rings were shot, I can't quite remember if the Syncro had gone or not but they did a great job on the repairs ! But as I'm sure you've been reading, yes the syncro's do get worn out quite easily, even on the CD009 gearbox it can eventually happen. I would get the car warmed up and go to the garage and get a technician in the car with you to prove it, hopefully done under warranty !

I've got a spacer on my one, as we as a 19 row cooler/thermostat. I only got these for piece of mind on track, so if you're doing that too, both are worth it. I think the greddy sump is baffled iirc

I'm just under the car now... So the spring plate is over the spring of course but I'm slightly confused as to what you want measured exactly. It's over the spring bucket not the shock. I'm probably reading it wrong!

I just wondered if anyone has gone from the loudest option, to the resonated version ? And if you have, any description or things you noticed (on sound in particular). Many thanks I guess I'll find out next week I'll try and record some db readings too!

Hello mate, I can definitely do this on the weekend if you don't mind waiting a little bit ? I'm updating my suspension, so it'll be easy peasy.

Reminds me of this:

My stoptech discs are doing great after a whole bunch of track days too. I do switch between an aggressive track pad and the stop tech street pads (just in case you want to do the same thing, I recommend it).

I recommend grooved discs, esp if you go to any tracks. Stop Tech or DBA good call.

Rather than describe - upload a few photo's for us

Thanks again for your help ! Your geo is similar to my one actually iirc, I will need to have another one done in a week or so anyway (minor suspension change happening). Certainly not a bad idea regarding an HR. All I know is that I can't do it now, whichever route I end up going But I think it was something like this, on the back of a beer mat Ex: JWT C8 cams/spings etc https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine-parts/jwt/jwt-vq35de-c8-cams-p-8207.html for example + long tubes (probably ISR) +NWP TB + correct size intake tube + revup oil pump + replace any fooked up OEM parts in the engine, probably piston rings + re-tune ecu again All done in a weekend right ? In fact, I guess if I start my thread I can stop hijacking your one for ideas (apologies) That was the modified upper plenum I meant (for the NWP TB):

I'm just looking to either swap the pipe over or purchase this part from someone. The main pipe after the Y, but not the back box.

Ooooh VERY nice ! Have you got a build thread ? or are you like me I'd love to know more about it ! Please keep it up, and I think perhaps I should start my own one, not that it can hold a candle to this one ! In regards to your geo, what have you got it set to now (with all of the SPL parts on), and how would you describe the handling traits whilst on track. My car feels extremely neutral, it only seems to understeer once the fronts are hot, and only seems to oversteer if I'm on the power too early. Which reminds me, before I start on the engine I want a nice diff ! (ffs) You've gotten me thinking about buying a donor engine and rebuilding that over time. I guess it'll initially be more expensive but I could sell my old one or keep it for spares. I can see the benefit of doing this, I just have to wait a while to sort GF visa stuff out. Where did you end up buying your one from out of curiosity? I can't afford to do a monster build but just getting a bit more out of it would be cool. I seem to remember that it's the top of my DE engine that requires more work rather than the guts of it. So I guess a larger NWP throttle body/intake pipe to match + maybe a redesigned plenum intake (I remember the one on the US forum).

Always too much for me to catch up with on her ! Thanks for always sharing, unlike me - I'm rubbish ! I've not done the outer tie rods yet, sounds like a worth while purchase. As you know I've done nearly all of the other suspension parts to SPL spherical bushings too, I guess it makes sense to get that as well. Donor engine ? Which reminds me... I need to do the flipping timing chain soon, and er I should also get on with pulling the engine and fixing the oil burning issue...as well as slinging some nicer cams and long tubes in. Oh and the brake ducts. and some other stuff