350Butcher

I know what you’re saying but I wasn’t being fooled by presentation myself so much at looking at the numbers and the wet braking stood out for me with budget taking best part of 30m more to stop than the 46m total the best on test managed (at only 62mph), bear in mind the people who install these type of tyres will also have budget pads too and you could be looking at doubling stopping distances over oem equipment. Whenever I’m in the scenario where traffic suddenly stops, especially on motorways, the first thing I do is look in the rear view mirror to make sure I don’t need to dive out the way for mr budget behind me!! These products just should not be on sale in my mind, there should be a minimum standard these products should meet as there are in plenty of other things.........that won’t kill you or worse someone else either!!

Been saying it for years but this type of information is what the Police should be preaching and putting out to folk and try to put these lethal tyre manufacturers out of business...........instead of still banging on the decades long "speed kills" campaign!

Really nice to see some real brakes for sale on the forum!! I had Alcon's fitted to my Evo 5 and they honestly pulled your eyes out your head.........good luck with the sale and a lucky owner! If anyone does need any brackets and maybe disc bells too made for these to be installed to something other than a 370z then give these guys a call.......top end guys, make brake kits for Aston Martin special projects and Koenigsegg so you're in same hands http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/

Honestly, the best thing you can do here is not ask a forum about tyres.......too many opinions, with very little supplied in the way of facts or evidence. Not saying anyone/every one is right or wrong but as tyres can be so personal and every ones experience and ability levels are different the advice is as a result all over the place. Stick to the main big brands, run a mile from cheap budget tyres and you'll be absolutely fine.

And manufacturers know their tyre will be fitted to everything out there from M3's to MPV's so it has to offer very similar traits and performance benefits across the board......within specs of course

100% the ones fitted to Ferrari/Mclaren are designed specifically for those cars but those manufacturers work alongside each other and all that data and tech regarding every aspect of the tyre from tread patterns/carcass construction etc all gets fed down the line and run out in the "lesser" p zero (in this case) to little me with a humble Focus........who wouldn't want company's like that having input in the rubber on their car and not to forget with the Corsa and Trofeo R......Pirelli definitely know how to make good tyres. As you have said tyre reviews and others opinions make it very hard to choose, one persons ability and view will be a completely different level to another/ the review in question might well have been funded by one of the tyre manufacturers taking part etc etc and like you (and I'm sure everyone else) once I've found something that works I tend to want to stick to it! Just to play devil's advocate you'd have to admit by your own logic that unless the p zero you'd tried in the past wasn't fitted to a Z and was in fact on something else then you might just be missing out on the best tyre in the world for your Z!!

I don't believe it is a big claim to suggest that a tyre that performs well on one car would be good on another at all, obviously there are many variables from cars weight to how the engine delivers its power, widths for aqua planning performance and so on........I'd say its a bigger claim to suggest the same tyre (in correct specification for the chosen vehicle) would give a totally different performance when fitted from one car to another. I have run p zero on my DE 350z as well as my current Focus estate, 2 completely different cars in almost every way and on both their performance was plenty good enough for fast and safe road use in all conditions. Would Ferrari and Mclaren really use Pirelli if they were rubbish? Would they ruin their chassis for the sake of being paid from a tyre manufacturer? Or did they make that relationship because they're good? I've never read a review of these marques and the article mentioning anywhere the chassis being let down by the tyre its on...............and they do mention from time to time about cars that do come from factory with poor tyre choices Same story with the Yoko AD08's I've run on my Evo and Z's again totally different cars and yet the same great performance from the same tyre in correct spec for the vehicles...........so should you ignore tyre reviews because they don't use your car.........I don't think so, a good tyre is a good tyre. Regarding the OP's issue........I'd go with geo being out, bushes/sus worn. Be interesting to see what's found when it goes in. Hope you get it all sorted

With the greatest of respect I’d rather take the experience of a full time motoring journo and racing driver regarding the quality and performance of my tyres. Evo do tyre reviews every year, they’re a really good read and agree or not it’s fact from some seriously fast guys.

So much hate for a tyre that I currently have on my focus st and have run before on road cars and always got on with. To unsettle these on the road you lot drive a LOT faster than I do!! I know it’s a 2017 test but Evo ranked it second against opposition that I read people saying are miles better than everything else. It was so rubbish it set fastest outright lap times both in dry and wet conditions............terrible, lethal tyre all a sudden 2 years later?? Really?? https://dsonqtq9c1uhr.cloudfront.net/document/global/280/190/95006-Evo-TyreTest2017-1505470066031.pdf

Sticking with the DE engine, you want to follow what Rob's doing with his car as he's putting up some genuinely good and truthful info about his modifications and the gains on offer in both terms on numbers and subjectively changing the driving of the car. I'd definitely swap out the rods and not just change bolts as the rod itself is weak and will be your limiting factor.......there's weight savings to be had as well as the strength benefits. Look forward to following your progress with it when you've got your plan and ready to get building

GTR is a brand in itself and has given Nissan a ton of exposure so I'm not sure waving goodbye to that would be a great idea. Especially if the plan is then to build another 4 wheel drive, high hp car to replace it. I know hybrids are the way to go and that the results of combining electric with petrol engines gives incredible results however massive torque isn't really great for being a great drivers car so the whole lot needs to be mapped correctly to give a steroided up n/a feel and therefore you're not needing to go all wheel drive purely to contain the torque on offer and you can keep it a purer drivers car again by remaining rear wheel drive and a honest modern day Z replacement that drives great and has a proper sound track still. Been reading about the new Gordon Murray's T.50 and that ticks all the boxes for a true great drivers car without being drawn into a HP/Torque war and headline grabbing numbers........only wish I had £2.4m to put my order in!!

Not sure on numbers but Mk1 seem a lot more limited and by a mile the best looking!! I do think that the right n/a manual cars in general will hold their value better as electric and restricted vehicles will become more the norm in only a few years.........scary and very sad! Just a thought but will Nissan even bother replacing the 370z or just end it altogether?

Firstly good luck with your build, as you say £ to Hp the trades not good but £ to driving pleasure I think n/a tuning is the way to go! Like you I think 400hp is the dream target however don't get too obsessed with the numbers as their is so much rubbish written about hp gains especially from the states, just accept you'll be making huge gains over stock otherwise you could be very disappointed! The plan you've listed above wont work as the blocks are completely different. The journals on the VQ37 crank are larger than the DE uses, you could get the block line bored to enlarge them however I think you'd may well hit issues with running the oil pump etc The VQ37 block's deck height was also increased over the DE's so you'd have to work out rod lengths and piston pin heights to work with that. It can all be done but you're not going down an easy route there. The later 350z HR engines use the same block as the VQ37 so it makes the conversion easier. (assuming you'd then use the very good VQ35HR heads) The crank is a drop in and you could use the VQ37 rods but the pistons don't offer the valve clearances you'd need so a custom piston would be required. Using a HR engine in a DE can be done but that itself would require a few modifications to the car itself and obviously the ecu loom......think Mark at Abbey carried this out on his car so could fill you in with what's required there but overall I'd say a 3.7lt HR engine conversion is the way you wanna go. Re cams I went with the Tomei 272 10.8 cams purely as they are the maximum you can run for piston/valve clearance, they are still a mild cam although a great upgrade over standard specs. If you're doing a build you'd go with the 282 11/11.3 Tomei offer or as you say try and speak with JWT Not so poor man stroker kit after all!!

I know all too well with our 7 month old what you're saying! Makes it very hard to make a case for having it when it's not getting used........even harder still when its nearly £50/month in tax to sit in the garage not turning a wheel! Also understand putting safety higher up the list of priority's with the new car. Would you consider the weird saloon version they did of the primarily hatch version? Weird but so rare kind of cool.......quite like it!..............and Tommi Makinen did a good job with it on his 'Ring lap too!! (worth a watch on YouTube)

Got to admire it being done properly. Well done. The look is crazy!! What shop installed the kit and carried out the paint job? Looks quality