RobPhoboS

Great diff for the road ! It's what I was going to use as well but I think due to me wanting to get more track days done I'm going with Kaaz, I don't know if I can stretch to the OS.G.

Much appreciated ! It was primarily because I had 2 weeks off work, and wanted to get my hands dirty and see how things are in there. It was remapped many years ago (2012 iirc) with Jez at h-dev using the uprev software, so for now I'll go with another remap (either with H-Dev or Abbey). After this next up is the diff, and a few track days to see how it feels again. When I get around to making the breathing of the car match the cams (this will be a fair amount anyway), if we think going down an alternate ECU route is the way then I'll see what the options are. TBH this time next year it might be at a similar point again but doing the pistons/rings/honing etc

Thank you very much guys ! I've got some other duties this evening but I will certainly post up more, including the various links (I wouldn't have attempted it without seeing various posts and vids)

Where are you based ? (as we'd rather point you towards your nearest Z specialist). What year/version is your Z ? I don't know what is causing it exactly but you can do this... Go to google and search like this: site:350z-uk.com high oil pressure site:my350z.com high oil pressure (US forum) Just write the search term after the website, you'll get far better results than a forum search itself.

I've started editing my 3rd post to keep it clearer and less erratic. If the photos are too small, let me know and I'll update them, and of course fire away with any questions or criticisms (as long as it's constructive I welcome it !).

Deleted

Sorted! I just found it hiding in the upper oil pan.

Happy New year to you too mate, you've helped me out hugely too, I'm very grateful for that sir! All the best for the new year!

Ah man, you legend! I'll send you a pm now, and I'll keep on looking too as I don't want this thing rattling around in the engine.

Hey I'm praying someone has a spare valve keeper collar thing, one of my ones shot off, I didn't realise they could! I'm trying my best to find it now.. But if someone has a spare please do let me know! Happy new year guys and gals, I'm spending it under and around the car this time haha

EDIT v1 Right, I guess I should explain a little of what I'm up to, some plans and how things are going. The plan is to replace the valve stem seals, oil pump, water pump, cams, springs, shims and timing chain (+ o-rings/seals/lifters). The car is staying NA, and I have zero plans to sell and buy into something else (I'd like a Cayman S but everything will cost more). I'm not looking to make some kind of mad NA lunatic motor but to keep it healthy for track work and a bit more poke at the top end. Which brings me to the point, I know as it stands after this work that for it to work more cohesively I'll need a set of long tube headers and some work to the upper plenum/intake (ie AIR stuff). Bottom end work will have to come at a time when I can do that, at the moment I can't (I wish I could). I also wanted to learn more about the heart of our cars, so yes it's for fun too. I had a couple of weeks of at Christmas as the office was closed, so I was on a deadline to try and complete this before heading back to work... Best laid plans and all of that. I already had a couple of parts kicking around for this time (valve covers/water pump/JWT valve tool). At the end of November I put my order through with @Adrian@TORQEN, all parts were in stock, except for the cams of course. Here's the list of parts: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/camshafts/3983-350z-de-jwt-billet-camshaft-set-c8-272-deg-12mm-non-revup-a3505-n00c8.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/valves-retainers-springs/1562-350z-de-ferrea-viton-valve-stem-seal-kit-vs1012vs1014.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/oil-pumps/1030-350z-de-nissan-oem-oil-pump-05-06-mt-rev-up-engine-upgrade-15010-ac70a.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/timing-chains-tensioners/12636-350z-de-torqen-timing-chain-complete-kit-c-z33-tc-kt.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/oil-pans-spacers/16801-350z-nissan-oem-upper-oil-pan-o-ring-15066-zl80b.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/gaskets/16688-350z-de-nissan-oem-timing-cover-gasketo-ring-kit-non-rev-up-engine-only-nonrevtmngcvr-kt.html NOTE: I did, slightly by mistake order a non OEM timing chain kit, looking at both old and new I can't see a difference, the new chain is 30g heavier. I'm happy to order an OEM main chain but I'm struggling to see the difference. There was a bit of a shipping nightmare unfortunately, the C8 cams were missing from the last shipment before Christmas. Yes my heart sank as this is a big job and it's all to do with timing (no pun intended), as I get back kind of late most days etc etc However Adrian & JWT went way beyond what I expected, actually it was incredible ! He contacted JWT Thur evening (our time), on Friday JWT had another set ready and sent out - they arrived on Christmas Eve (from San Diego) !!!! I have to do some arse kissing here because I'm sure you guys would understand but Adrian has been stellar, easy to communicate with and very helpful, I really do appreciate it ! (also @ZMANALEX also came to the rescue later on too with valve lifters) I effectively had a 5 day delay due to the delivery issue, Christmas, and a mates wedding 2 days later. I was looking to finish up on the 3rd of January so that I could it remapped again before going back to work (however, there are always some unforeseen things). I'm going to list out all of the tools I've used, as well as links to threads or videos that helped me. I've saved all of these off-line, so if anything vanishes I'll have a backup for you if you need it. I'll keep updating the thread, it's not a walk-through as such but might be useful for anyone stupid enough to try and do this (pic of tools soon) I nipped to the local garage so they could evacuate the AC system firstly. Get the bumper off, turn the car the other way around, get it on stands and prepare... to drain a lot of fluid (that never seemed to end, even when parts are coming off later) At this point the biggest issue I faced was disconnecting the power steering lines as they go through the radiator core on my car. I used hot water and a syringe to help soften the rubber. The rest kind of just takes good observation and checking for connectors. Remember to bag up and label your bolts. Extend that breaker bar ! (well, not that much but you get the idea) then impact it off. 'Shiiiieeeeeeetttt' - yep, we're going in. Get a couple of paper clips, colour optional, compress the tensioners and pop them in to keep them locked... Note: I had loosened the cam bolts as per FSM before the caps came off EM-77 Getting ready to use this baby don't forget... TDC 1 + some 6mm thick rope (no power in the garage for a compressor) - don't use the 3mm stuff in this photo, it takes ages to feed into the cylinder. Use a magnet to get these out, and of course note everything down as the size (written inside the lifters) are VITAL ! Remove the springs AND shims (at the bottom) I required a 2nd smaller magnet to get down beside the valve and the head casing. I grabbed this from Halfords as the pen version was out of stock but it's actually handier ! On the 2nd cylinder I did, one of these shot off because I didn't realise they would pop ! The 1st cylinder didn't do that. It took about 4 hours to find. I randomly found it at the bottom of the upper oil pan That thing could cause a big problem, I used a borescope to look in the cylinders about 5 times as well Old springs, shims and stem seals If you're a bit cack-handed, get a proper stem seal remover tool. Just put a little fresh oil on them and they pop on You can push them down with a socket Yep that blue rope, Toolstation about £3.50 for more than you need and it's clean and wrapped. Old OEM springs/shims and new JWT springs/shims Install the new shims, springs (paint down) and follow the FSM EM-82 And begin the process of measuring and taking notes. I put the valve lifters back in where they came from for consistency, doesn't really matter tbh. Ignore the markings on the caps, I initially mixed up the naming but they were all laid out in the order they came off. Once again you don't need to write on them either, they have stamped letters on them and shown in order EM-82. It hurt my brain trying to work stuff out, so I just cut out bits of paper with the ones I had first of all. Then whichever ones aren't within spec, get ready to order some (I have a few spare now). Put them back on and measure again. Yes it looks daft but far easier to read. In my case I had to order a few, @ZMANALEX sent out several very quickly. Unfortunately I still need at least 1 more that Adrian is supplying, as well as the 2 upper oil pan seals...which I didn't realise I'd need (my mistake), so that's set me back a week or so now. For my 2004 DE I need to remove the upper oil pan in order to take the oil pump out. If you have a rev-up (iirc) you don't need to do that. Lucky gits. So yep, disconnect the steering rack, support the engine (crane or support bar), remove the engine subframe. I put this back on each night with a jack holding it up to remove the stress on the support bar. Take care prying this thing off, it claimed my seal splitter but died for the greater good. Remember those Philips head bolts on the oil gallery gaskets? Well, 17 came off but of course one had to start rounding. Ensure you get some new Hex head ones (Torqen). Cleaning off the RTV sealant is time consuming. WD40 (and Tardis, or Goo Gone) helps soften it, and using plastic razor blades make fairly quick work of them. I think I might try a dedicated chemical solution next time. Well that's where I'm at for now, just waiting for a delivery and double checking I don't require anything else. Way back at the top I said about the non OEM chain, I'll post up a couple of pics but I can't see a difference. Cheers for looking/reading !

No worries. You'll be fine, and no they shouldn't wear out at all ! It's only the opposite end of the bar that eventually starts rattling, so yep it's worth pressing out and putting into the new ones (if that's exactly what is knackered).

Back in Feb/March @Sly@Kaizer Motor Kaizer Motor rebuilt my gearbox after a couple of failing parts (5th done, and R going). Whilst they were doing this I thought I may as well upgrade the clutch and flywheel, and considering I had no idea what state it was in I'm glad I did. I knew I wanted the JWT kit as I've only read positive feedback from it, and considering the car gets tracked I thought this would be a good way to go. You'll find more reviews I think on the US forum, for ex: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/263013-jwt-clutch-flywheel-review.html https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/178849-review-jwt-clutch-and-flywheel.html @Adrian@TORQEN kindly got the kit out to Sly, including a StopTech slave cylinder: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/clutch-flywheel-packs/1895-350z-de-jwt-jim-wolf-technology-clutch-and-flywheel-combo-1200kg-clamping-force-l3503-ncf-ktp.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/ancillaries/1672-350z-03-04-stoptech-premium-clutch-slave-cylinder-13842017.html My car has Vibra-Technics (road) engine mounts, Torque Solutions gearbox mount and Whiteline diff mounts. Unfortunately I don't have any photo's of these parts as the guys had things fitted and ready to go when I was able to get there (lots of snow back then!). However I do have the old clutch/fw in the garage so I can show you the condition of those. As soon as I fired the car up and set off down the road I could immediately feel the difference. It's far smoother to operate, and rev matching is still nice and easy but perhaps you need to be a tiny bit quicker on the blipping due to the flywheel. Yes the flywheel is quite noisy as expected when idling, however this is normal but you don't have to go that route as you can choose a quieter one if desired. https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/clutch-flywheel-packs/664-350z-de-jim-wolf-technology-jwt-clutch-flywheel-kit-nodular-iron-26lb-flywheel-900kg-clamping-force-l3503-ncfsd.html I did get one track day in at Anglesey back in the summer and it performed without a hiccup. As the track was new to me I wasn't really paying a whole lot of attention to my car (aside from braking/tyre pressure). I'm sure anyone else with the JWT kit will attest that it feels a hell of a lot nicer and engaging (sorry) to use over an OEM set-up. Any questions, fire away.

Let me know if this thread is a bit jumbled up and I'll start a fresh one. review in progress + photo's to come Meister R - GT1 (2018 version with SDV) Meister R have released several versions of their GT1's, and unfortunately their website currently doesn't show the development they've taken over the last few years to get to where they are now. I really do hope they can spend some time either making a video showing this or something on the website, as I'm sure people looking to spend a fair amount of cash on suspension would like to know the tech behind it all. They now have a 'Staggered Digressive Valve' updated from 'Double Digressive' since the version I initially bought, as well as 32 stages of damping adjustment (I think it was about 26 previously). I had to do a little googling to find out more about this, here are some links for ref: https://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=377409 https://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=575091 My car is currently set to a few clicks above softest for normal road driving. I can say there is a noticeable difference, and as mentioned several times my car is largely on SPL metal, spherical bushings and Eibach ARB's. It definitely rides smoother than the previous iteration I had but of course it's not a RR Phantom, and due to the bushings you still get the occasional wincing moment from typically low speed, small cracks/potholes in the road. I've not felt the need to increase the hardness of the dampers, they control the car in a great manner and you certainly don't get any bouncing like on other coilovers I've seen/experienced. In terms of my needs I wanted a more compliant feeling on the road, which they have achieved, and on track they were ideal for where I am with the car. I've not had the pleasure of a track day just yet as my funds are a bit tied up with a few things, in the new year for sure. Also I'll say it again just to drive this point home. Customer service has been unreal, exceptionally good and very helpful. I'm glad I didn't go down a route of a coilover made and built in another country as it can take weeks of waiting, in my case after sending them back it took around 1 week.

The new centre punch I got yesterday (an 8mm one) seemed to make an impact. So I'm slightly hopeful now, will try on the weekend to drill them.

My Z and my old MR2 did the same, it will pull itself along (note my JWT clutch/fw is new and did it on the old OEM one too). IMHO there's nothing wrong unless you've got the usual tell-tale signs of a worn clutch.

Probably a combination but doing this part anyway, too late now I have a separate thread for it, so will of course show my findings (doing timing chain and other bits and pieces).

Hey Mark, long time no see ! It's to use with the JWT tool, I have one pre-drilled but the other 3 that the seller included aren't (it's a pity to do it!). Granted, it's not like I'll be in a rush but will save a bit of messing around.

Which is the same for any painted surface, take care I'd really recommend watching some videos from here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJCQ0X5E5Ig https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTsUSDD0Zzk

?

I appreciate the advice ! I bought quite a heavy duty centre punch (8mm 120g), I'm hopeful it'll do the trick. If not, I've asked the guy that did my seat as he has a pillar drill. Unfortunately he's always busy AF, so I'm not sure he'll get the time to do it (as I need it by next week ideally). And of course this time of year is quite difficult.

I'll go an grab a normal centre punch today, hopefully it'll work. I've got a weighty mallet to whack it with If the vice can't hold it properly, I thought perhaps my locking pliers might do the trick on the floor (with some wood underneath so the drill bit doesn't hit the floor). Thank you

I need to drill a nice big'ole in these (a pity yes) - but I'm wondering will a standard centre punch do the job ? (got a recommended one if so ?) The 'automatic' one didn't even scratch it.

Imho, the camera body itself really doesn't matter ultimately. Just get a decent lens or two for whichever brand you go with, because they will last forever, or you can sell them on if you fancy something different.

So that's likely to be the other end of the arm/rod. Unfortunately the other end is a sealed ball joint type of bolt. Search for 'banana arm rattle' or 'compression arm rattle', and you'll see plenty of threads, it's common but quite hard to diagnose. It's more than likely to be this, so buy new ones and have the old super pro bushings pressed out, and pressed into the new arms. If you leave the stock rubber bushings in the new arms you're likely to notice slower steering responses typically. Check out the sponsored sellers, I know Torqen has a range of them not just the Nissan made one's. Any problems, just ask as I've done my ones a few times over the years. Out of curiosity, is your car lowered? Re: caster It's up to you, and depending on your cars caster if it needs more or less. If it's within spec just make sure it's pressed in the same orientation. SuperPro have a pdf iirc on their website.