RobPhoboS

Well I expected some fitment issues, and I sure got them The runner/slider hasn't arrived yet which probably would have helped with a part of the problem but not the main one. I could do with some ideas pretty please, as you'll see my mistakes below... Seat out Bracket test fit Side mount test ... hmm bugger, holes don't line up. It's a minor problem that I can work around. I spoke to my step dad and asked him what would be a way to get around this. We thought just elongate the offending hole, then put a piece of stainless steel or aluminum bar on top of it. That bar would have 3 holes, one for the middle bolt that attaches to the frame then 1 bolt either side to secure it down. Cruddy example of what I mean: However, this doesn't matter really as I'll use the runner when it turns up. But it might help someone else in the future. At this point I decided (rightly or wrongly) to just line it up to the most forward it could go and drill a new hole so that I could at least fix it to the frame, however as you'll see that didn't really help. Test fitting the seat with just a couple of bolts to see how things line up/feel. So the minor problem here is that the side mounts in this orientation means the legs stick out causing the front right bolt to be covered - so you'd have to fit the frame down first, and the bigger problem on the left the leg of the side mount fouls the front box mount. So you can't bolt the frame down when it's orientated with the extension facing forward. I'll just swap the mounts so the shorter side is facing forward when I use the slider. Now forgetting all of the above, the real issue fixing it like this is that the seat is offset to the right. So the pedals and the steering wheel are just off to your left, which means the seat shoulder sticks out quite far and there's no chance of closing the door ! Ideally what I need to do is get the seat closer to the transmission tunnel, it might still touch the door card but you'd be able to shut the door at least. Obviously I can't move the seat any further to the left because it just hits the sub-frame raised bits. I found a new video on youtube where a chap in the USA used the same seat and sub-frame but didn't have any issues with the shoulder hitting the door, and yes he's showing the passenger side (our driver side), I've ask him how he managed that so waiting to see what he says. Idea 1: 4 pieces of aluminium thick tube (so it has a hole in the middle for an M10 bolt to go through), mount the slider onto that raised slightly (as the runner will have a bit of height too). 2x 4mm\5mm thick aluminum bars (same length as the side mounts) with holes to mount to the slider, and offset holes so I can mount the side mounts and get the seat over to the left more. Any suggestions as to what else I could try would be hugely helpful ! Harry sent me a couple of photo's of the M2 mount, it would certainly move it to the left a bit more but not by much I guess:

That's why I'll say what I said earlier, it doesn't really matter what someone else thinks, try it by used or rental then you'll know for yourself if it suits you You might have a user that just shoots and uploads/prints or others that spend several hours in photoshop perfecting the image. Highly subjective! I'd always try to stick with a 'fast' lens (or low F stop) unless it's a big ass zoom.

I'd just like to add, your sensor is a cropped one so that 50mm is technically an 80mm on a Canon camera like yours. Just a warning, as some people over look this, so if you really wanted a 50mm you'd need a 30mm-35mm (roughly) which will give you what you were looking for.

It looks like everything arrived at my folks place yeserday, so I shall be trying my best to fit this on the weekend And just another thumbs up for GSM I've not had anything but a great experience, so I can't understand what happened with the others here ?

Rich, I can recommend a pair of decibel devil's if you're doing track days. I've not done a comparison video yet, I will soon.

You can read and listen to all the advice from here, other photographers, websites, youtube and what not BUT... At the end of the day you need to try it out and see if it fits your needs with coverage, depth of field and artifacts that cheaper lenses have (but might not concern you). So I recommend a couple of things 1: Hire a couple for a weekend. 2: Buy used (from a good ebay seller or shop), if you don't get on with it sell it on, very hard to loose money (I've always sold them for the same price I spent). Example http://www.lensesforhire.co.uk/ https://www.hireacamera.com/en-gb/stills/lenses/ Good luck !

Does anyone want me to measure and make a 3d model of the sub frame I bought? Might help anyone making their own.

I think I'm going to try Anglesey or Donington next, maybe Combe as a few of you like it. So far I've done Silverstone (GP + national), Snetterton 300 and Woodbridge, from those I think Snetterton is the most interesting, very technical and the Z can put along nicely. Woodbrige is like a bond villain hide out, mixed surfaces but is handily always on Saturdays and very fair price (I'll go back a few times). Silverstone GP is like z21 said, made for powerful cars with some aero. I like the track, even though it's completely flat but I guess I've been there a bunch of times so it's familiar. And I have been out at Brands GP a few times, which is awesome however my biggest gripe is that the GP circuit prices are an utter rip off unfortunately. I did drive around at Spa a few weeks ago, shared an E92 M3 out there - wow, that is a scary but exhilarating circuit. The best thing about it is that it's near the 'ring, so doing a one then the other would be great again

I wondered what your favourite circuits/layouts are that you've driven (pref in a Z), maybe a top 5 ? These are the main ones I know or know of: Abingdon Anglesey Bedford Autodrome Bruntingthorpe (?) Blyton Brands Hatch Cadwell Park Castle Combe Croft Circuit Donington Park Goodwood Knockhill Llandow Lydden Mallory Park Oulton Park Pembrey Rockingham Silverstone Snetterton Thruxton Woodbridge

(imho) This sounds like a mechanical issue and nothing else. Initially it could be that the nuts aren't torqued up to spec (112nm for 350z) - ALWAYS ensure they are done up to that, not under or beyond. Don't let anyone just use and airgun\impact wrench or f'ing tight. It could also be that there is some dirt between the mating faces or something blocking the wheel(s) from a secure fitting (that'll magnify with speed). Or potentially something on the suspension has perished (bushing) and just happened to coincide with tyre change. I've had something like that before where the compression rod at the front knacked the ball joint when changing something else. (crap timing) Whatever the case, hopefully it's just something simple and easy to sort

I just thought I'd say that I've ordered everything, the sub-frames arrived from the US on Monday and the other parts will arrive at some point soon. My experience with GSM has been great, no problems, called me back when busy with customers and really helpful in the store, checked with suppliers on availability etc

Yeah I really didn't like the sides that fall away, I can't see the point for me - my legs just flop out and will rest on the transmission tunnel again. I'm pretty sure it's going to hit the door card where the shoulder flares out, obviously I won't know until it's here which is why I'll keep this updated (fingers and bits crossed).

Ah yeah. OMP WRC-R (not XL) 2nd place was Mirco RTS 3D I think I tried out every single seat possible

Discs aren't warping (read that article), and very, very unlikely that they manufactured duff discs, unless super dooper cheap crappy thingys.

My only issue at the moment is how tight this seat is going to be against the door card at the shoulder. I am envisioning a hole cut in the door

Cheers for info, so I presume taking it apart to set it up to 60% would be a wise idea then (I guess it has instructions)? I'll be doing this around August, and yeah I track the car

I'm soo glad I went to the store to try out the seats, I found a winner and it wasn't even on my list! Definitely do this if you can, you'll be surprised at how vastly different each can be. I'll update the thread in due course with install pic's.

True , I always find test drives a bit limiting with the sales rep rambling on !, just want to be thrown the keys for 30 mins ! , never happens though ! In that case when you call or in the dealership, be firm and explain you want to drive it properly, not just tyre kicking

No experience of either BUT I'd say book a test drive in both, well out of London to get a better idea of what they are really like.

I've got no real idea if they are knackered or not (doesn't feel it). I guess I can always get the Z1 kit if needs be.

Upgrade it to Grammar Pro.

I like it, you can definitely hear the cams doing their thing but like you say, needs the tune and to hear it moving around. If you end up down this way let me know, I have a good way for sound

I prefer separating work/music from gaming so am solidly in the console (xbox) gaming side of things. I did this about 6 years ago. If I had the space, I'd probably use the PC for racing sims but since I don't, the joypad is what I'm stuck with. Like yourself, I can't be bothered updating it every couple of years for very little improvement, sure it might be fractionally prettier but if a game is crap, it's crap Cheers for the heads up on the XIM4, I had no idea we could do that now ! (like others, yeah FPS with M&K is better) I'm keen on racing games with VR but once again that'll feel great with a wheel\seat set up and can't do that now. I feel this thread, like other things in life will be divided by what someone has invested more money and time in, it'll get rationalised that way rather than objectively.

Cheers guys, I already have the bushings done and definitely Super Q So you didn't need to change any bearings, or add shims ect ? So the seals would be these parts: 38342-P9010 x 2 (Output Shaft Seal) 38189-P0117 x 1 (Pinion Seal)