RobPhoboS

I have a couple for sale here btw - new/used: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107093-brake-pads-poly-bushings-arms-etc-for-sale-new-used/#entry1604324 I can't really answer that because it depends on some parts. Some arms I bought had metal bushings on them already, so just buying a whole kit doesn't make sense if you are changing parts after lowering it. You'll have to plan out what you're doing.

Jeez, careful using a flipping hammer on the poor thing. Just use a pair of mole grip pliers with a bit of rag on the cap so you don't tear it apart.

Totally agree - you just have to be careful as to what you select and where. I've gone from rubber-poly-metal. Downside to metal is the slight harshness and occasional rattle over some surfaces.

Nice info there, and annoying with my DE lump Although Michael's car is a DE iirc, and he's my inspiration ! I got the road engine mounts, I didn't notice anything extra but I had the Torque Solutions gearbox mount and Whiteline diff mounts already. The gearbox one brought the most vibration but altogether, the shifting is tight as fook now (+ Torque Solution single piece billet short shifter). Subframe will be done later in the year for me, probably in winter I imagine. Which set did you opt for ?

Can I pay monthly ? Best wheels (imho) for the 350z, I would if I could ! GLWS

I'm on the vibra engine mounts + a stubby chassis to engine mount, very good, almost zero movement at all now. Yeah the restriction, more so for us DE than you is pretty hamstrung. ITB's would be brilliant in the end. I think the only bushings left on my car that need doing are the subframe and the radius rod ones. I'd love to do the porting myself, although I need to get a head to practice on first of all, and some serious guidance from a friend that does this on Ferraris/Lambo's etc Have you got a rough idea of when you're hoping to be back out in it ?

It'll definitely be pulling above that RPM now, I'm sure ! How's your build coming along ?

Lightly restored, I don't get what the difference is ?

I used this before: http://amzn.eu/3vTPhf9

Doesn't seem to work for me

Cheers for that, I really need to update my ones again at some point !

My car won't get on with noise restrictions like that sadly. Ah well.

This sounds beyond a DIY job? Only if you can't use a tube of RTV and a spanner. Sorry isn't the timing chain tucked away inside the engine? There's an inspection 'window' for the main tensioner, so you can get a rough idea of what's happening in there He's pointing at it here in the beginning:

This sounds beyond a DIY job? Only if you can't use a tube of RTV and a spanner.

Brake fluid Gearbox oil Diff oil Inspect timing chain tensioner Compression test Leak down test (depending on comp tst) Unless instructed, don't bother with any engine flush, do a double oil change (drop old oil, put cheap new same grade in, run for 20 mins or so, drop it and change to proper oil and filter).

Actually that's pretty cool indeed ! I like that you can lock out the throttle completely, or have it in the valet modes too.

I forgot they did this presentation too:

Stoptech vid from Drive: My memory was hazy on it Good vid.

If I find the video I'll post it.

Well here's my take on it and how I'd do it. Do the usual, lines, fluids and good discs, get track pads and keep the stock ones to swap over when done at the track. If the calipers still suck, yeah move on and sell the other parts as someone will always want to buy/try. There's nothing wrong with a mono-piston block and in some cases it better.

What pads/discs have you used ?

I also use those wipes but the Zano stuff is better (imho)

Youtube it. Easier anyway.

Ah so no rattle on start up/idle ?

Video the sound, it's simple to do and easier than us stabbing in the dark at it. Could be timing chain tensioner, and if it is - and you're around 100k miles, do the whole thing not just the tensioners. If the chain snaps - you'll be crying.