RobPhoboS

You'll have to be clear - MPS4 or MPS4S

Get MPSS whilst they're still carrying stock! They are largely gone now. Also what to move to as a readily available stock. Stupid fking company.

Well for those of us with 18" wheels - we're fk'd. They aren't making 4S for smaller than 19" wheels I've just been told by Michelin.

That's really cool to hear you've not left the Z world (which says a lot about these cars), and you've opted for the right colour

Just take it to Kwik Fit or someone like that, get them to do an alignment check - take a photo of the print out and post it here. (that's assuming you have the springs already on the car which it sounds like) It's free for them to do that btw.

It looks like Mines lip, I have the same style one from Tarmac. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/110000-new-improved-minesveilside-lip-03-06-pre-facelift-350z/

I wanted to stay in bed too but I'd committed some cash already, and then Mr GT4 gave me his sessions. I've had no luck with the weather but TBH probably better as it doesn't put me off.

So my 2nd track day was pretty cold again, 4 deg and had hail stones and heavy rain On the way up I saw a yellow Aventador going south bound on the M40, stationary, facing north bound with some fair damage to the front end... Then as I was nearing Silverstone I saw a 997 Turbo in a hedge Finally just before my first session I saw a poor Civic that had gone into the pit wall with severe front end damage. Confidence inspiring at it's best ! I initially booked just 1 session as I wasn't sure what the other drivers would be like. In the end I had 3 sessions, one back to back and one later in the afternoon, a friend in a Cayman GT4 backed out and gave me his ones. Actually overall the behaviour was largely good, styling of cars is a true indicator of bellendness on track so it was easy to avoid. I backed off, chill out for a few seconds and pedal on. I did find some drivers, like me were total novices but they were going very slow in corners and belting it up the straights, then I'm right behind them again in the corners. It usually takes a lap and then finally they realise and move. The last session was pretty cool, barely anyone out there and it felt like I had the place to myself so I could try out a few different lines. I managed 13.8mpg, I'll try harder next time ! Looking forward to the next track day, tuition is required as the youtube videos only get you so far. Driver61 being my favourite

I used Tardis on a MF cloth to help remove the silicone sealant last week for my oil pan spacer (and a dremel for half of the job with a soft wire brush, until it died ) Also regarding the Long tubes/Shorties - from what I gather from FBT on here is that it's more to do with gas turbulence/flow as I was completely stumped as to why there would be a difference between decat+shorties vs long tubes. As I mentioned before, is it worth you spending over double the price for long tubes and a few more ponies ? If I can, I will but funds permitting and it's not a job you can do quickly with the engine in - which is also why I'm not doing it until the engine is out. (I'm not being a dick, just trying to point out some bits that get overlooked before leaping)

Unless you found a crazy good deal or used set, don't bother with true coilovers, it's not going to make a jot of difference. Unlike good tyres.

Depends what you want to do ultimately. There really isn't any 'best' as it totally depends on you, how you drive and what you'd like to get from them I didn't want 'true' coilovers as I don't want to strengthen the strut towers, plus you have to purchase arms to replace the spring buckets. More faffing around. Largely others haven't done the welding but I would really want to if taking it to the track, for the road yeah I'm sure it's all cool. If you're searching, copy and paste this if using Chrome: site:350z-uk.com track coilovers (and change the search term to whatever you need) A word of warning...once you start messing with the suspension, it's a slippery slope to spending way more than you initially thought (especially if you're doing track days)

Ah ha, yeah something like that could do it, cheers sir (could probably get it welded to the tow hook bar)

Would need to be the right grade stainless steel, or something like that,not brass imho.

I went with Meister R gt1, kw v3 were my intention but Im very happy with the choice I made. Have a look through the forum,always lots of conflicting ideas just take your time.

I've been looking but couldn't find an adapter. If you find one, please post a link

I reset the trip, and fill up at 250-ish miles - usually around £50-ish until it clicks.

Yeah I've been watching him for a few months too, he comes across as a nice guy and good to see people working the cars. SJB Garage is also good, and friends with him too:

I remember when I searched before, as I've had the same problem for about 4 years - is there a shutter valve on this system ? I couldn't see it in the FL part of the service manual.

Just needs a bit of lube and shove it in.

I can't help with your question to how those companies are but I just wondered... Are you looking to have an ENTIRE system fabricated ? And for what specific reasons do you want one made ?

Yeah BUT the best way is to check, you should have the original tow hook in the boot, so try that on it first

Fantastic write up, and I'm sorry for your loss of a friend

Damn, the profile is a wee bit short for me

The long tubes work in conjunction optimally with certain cams, it's not just slinging it on and it'll magically make claimed power. You might be able to use normal 'shorties' on the manifold\headers, save £800 and only be 1-5bhp down in comparison. Depends on your budget. I'm trying to learn this stuff now, fundamentally so I don't pee money up the wall by not optimising components. You have to have a goal of what you want to achieve, then build around it. Obviously lot's of people have done this already which takes the guess work out of it luckily. You'll quickly see why most people that want power go with FI. I'm not doing it solely for that.

I've gone with 15/25 but my camber is F -2.4 R -2.15 so the front is still a bit tucked in but hopefully it's not tainted the steering feel too much, which is why I didn't want any wider up front.