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RobPhoboS

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Everything posted by RobPhoboS

  1. What are you expecting from it? I picked it up for £5, used it once, back to using sonax bsd every couple of weeks.
  2. Yup, that's why I didn't think we needed to move it, could have saved about 45 mins
  3. Sooo awesome ! What made you choose Tomei over JWT or BC ? We have the same engine mounts, they are really good and you can feel the positive effect from them
  4. No photo's at all, didn't have time tbh - once you stick your head under there, you'll see it.
  5. Sorted ! I ended up going through the big grommet thing by the battery as it was far easier. Technically I don't think you need to do this part but just in case... Contort yourself under the passenger dash, take off the 10mm bolt holding the white plastic thing that's blocking your visibility to the main wiring grommet. Unclip the grommet holder from here, you might need someone to turn the grommet from the engine bay side about 90deg. We pierced the rubber boot with a very thin allen key that was the same thickness as my sensor cable (I bought 5m which was the perfect amount for all wiring), ran it down to my sensor and made sure it's not going to get caught up anywhere. Back in the cabin I just ran it from under the passenger dash to the side of the stereo and up into the cubby hole. We had to tap into the cigar lighter as the piggy-back fuse thing was the wrong size. Hopefully that's ok for now, everything seems to work.
  6. Just sling some stainless steel wire wool in the bottom, have a look a few weeks later
  7. Yup they did, the lap before it was fine then they said something felt as you described on the cool down lap. Luckily it wasn't like Misha's experience in the video I posted.
  8. I just added an update to the main post I guess that's probably the easiest way to add my thoughts.
  9. I was at Snetterton yesterday, I had checked my wheels before the sighting lap, I noticed one of the guys with us driving very slowly around Coram heading back for the pits. I came in a couple of laps later to do my tyres, and he was saying something is up with the car. He'd just popped on AD08R's on his R26R, I asked if he torqued the wheels, he said no the tyre place did it... (you know what's coming next) Sure enough the front left wheel, every single nut was loose and could be spun with my fingers ! It was visibly away from the brake disc by about 3 or 4mm ffs. (oh and the other nuts weren't very tight either) He was VERY lucky considering he only got the car about a week ago.
  10. Some cheap ebay things are fine btw - but in this case, these sorts of sensors aren't.
  11. Take a look through here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/93-professional-traders/
  12. Pretty sure it'll be the usual compression arm ball joint that can't be replaced, you need a new arm. Our traders are cheaper than Nissan, so have a look. Note, I've had this before and one of the garages here couldn't work it out (they did say you can't always be sure when it's early on), so I just bought the arms, job done.
  13. http://www.350z-uk.c...ter-kit-review/ Get the Torque Solutions one (anything that isn't single piece will be utter tosh).
  14. The OP is only asking for toe settings: True true but some camber would be good. (esp over stock)
  15. Either way, aside from tyre pressure - it involves money, and as I said you can't adjust the camber on stock sadly. I'm not sure he quite understands our stock setup (not intending to be rude btw!!!). If he wants specific settings = adjustable camber arms front and rear and arb's etc
  16. Honestly it's just the exposure Strudul Although technically right now, they have changed colour, and in a couple of weeks will change again Many thanks guys, the next part of the write up will be with the CL pads on the discs for a track day. Then after that, my thoughts with the ST pads back on for normal duty and some B road drives. Regarding swapping pads, it doesn't take long and the noise alone is enough for me to spend 20-30 mins doing that. There really isn't one pad that can do it all which I'm fine with, and track pads are expensive but will last longer like this and I have the bonus of keeping a close eye on the condition of both sets.
  17. In short would I recommend this kit - yes Pads are only suitable for the road, not track (as it's stated on box/website). If you want to read my waffle... I was given the opportunity by Torqen to try out Stoptech Street Pads, and Stoptech Slotted discs/rotors, yes at a kindly discounted price but for an honest impartial review. And I do mean that, Adrian hasn't asked me to say anything other than what I thought. I'll be keeping the post updated as time goes on because I've only had them on the car for about a week or so as a complete package, and have had to switch the pads for a trackday this week. Of course if you guys have any questions or (relevant) requests, ask away. My car is a 2004 350z with the Brembo's, braided lines, TYP200 brake fluid on that side of things. These are the products in the review: Centric pins & clip kit: https://www.torqen.u...s-11742041.html https://www.torqen.u...s-11742056.html Discs - Stoptech Slotted: https://www.torqen.u...2642076slr.html https://www.torqen.u...2642079slr.html Pads - Stoptech Street Performance: https://www.torqen.u...o-30909600.html https://www.torqen.u...o-30909610.html My setup prior to fitting any of the above parts were EBC Premium Rotors (plain OEM type) that were skimmed by Marcus a little while back, and the pads I was using were CL RC5+ pads which are a track pad. For me these pads are fantastic but extremely noisy when they aren't able to get up to operating temperature, I found that frequently bedding them in would get rid of the noise but then 4 or so days later it comes back. With certain pad compounds this is just what will happen as the pad layer is removed from the disc after bedding them in under normal driving conditions. I have previously tried EBC Yellow Stuff, and Ferodo DS2500 on the road but not the track. I didn't have a problem with the Yellow Stuff, however I didn't really like the compressible feeling of the compound, so it was more of a feeling thing rather than an issue specifically. With the DS2500, it was a similar feeling and occasionally a bit of noise but these began fading on me after some spirited drives. I remember seeing a graph somewhere showing this but I was surprised that it happened on the road, which is why I then went to CL RC5+. I can't recommend DS2500, maybe the DS3000 is better but I'd now only look at their pure track pads if I was at all interested in the future. All 3 of these pads work from cold, the DS2500 a bit less so and they all created dust, however just over 2 years ago I coated my wheels with Plastidip and haven't washed them since so I can't truly comment on this much. Although this weekend I pulled the old coating off and will re-dip them again soon, so I should be able to say how the Stoptech pads do. For this test I thought I'd try out the pads first on my old discs, they were on these discs for around 2 weeks. Fitting was nice and easy, and you'll see the packaging is good with a nice bonus of backing pads adhered to them already. I got them on one late Sunday evening before driving back to London, so I couldn't do an ideal bedding in procedure, initially there wasn't any bite at all because of the material from the old pads - so bare that in mind. Once I got onto the main roads I thought I had better do some stops down from 60mph to 10mph as it was clear, I guess I managed about 5-7 of these before traffic started approaching. Each time you could feel it was improving so I knew that it would be ok if I needed to emergency brake. The first gigantic difference was the total lack of noise ! And once back into London I could feel them biting nicely at the start of pedal travel over the next few days, and once back in Surrey I did do a bedding in run anyway but honestly it didn't require it by that point. I liked the feel, and would say these are very good choice for daily driving with OEM style discs. About another week after this I popped on the discs, as usual my plans didn't work out the way I was hoping and ended up finishing around 3am due to other things happening that day. This was also a drive from one place in London to another, so absolutely no chance of bedding these in either, just a few pulls down from the speed limit to 5mph to get a little heat into them. Once again, no noise but not quite as much bite as before but I expected that as there wasn't any pad material on the discs. The next morning I drove down to Surrey, and did a bedding in run of 10x 60ish down to 10mph. Because the discs are new, I do feel this could be done again, so a 20x run which I didn't quite have time for. At some points I was laughing at how hard the car was pulling to a near stop, very impressive and it wasn't triggering the ABS (the RC5+ pads can do that a bit too easily). After a cooling down period I couldn't really get much of a run at anywhere due to Sunday drivers emerging thick and fast, ok technically bloody slow. I will get an early run out with these pads to push them progressively to see how they cope but so far so good, and wow it's nice not having squealing pads ! As mentioned in the beginning this review will be continued over time, however I'm happy to say that I shall run these pads and discs, then switch over to the RC5+ (or RC6) for track time. Check out these videos for an explanation of how and why to bed in the brakes. ---------------------------------------------- Update 1 31/03/17 I finally had a full DRY (in fact sunny!) track day at Snetterton 300 yesterday As mentioned before, I had popped on the RC5+ pads as this is their job. There was a considerable difference between these Stoptech discs and the flat ones I had before. They seemed to have more consistency in feel, yes the pedal travel had moved a touch by a few mm but nothing more than that throughout the whole day. Also I noticed that I didn't have any noise like I did at the other 2 track days with the flat discs. The pads didn't fade at all, as this is what they are designed for but being sintered they will nibble at discs over time. I had absolute confidence in the braking, and on the way home they felt just as good. I have probably over heated the front discs a bit, so maybe some cooling ducts for them will help in the future. And I'll pop the Stoptech pads back on after the fronts look a bit more normal. (taken after my last session) Front: Rear:
  18. There isn't much you can do stock.. so you need to spend money in order to get any specific settings. However...you can obviously drift without doing anything to the car.
  19. Hey man, glad to see you joined us here now, we're usually friendly and helpful! Your Z is looking lovely!
  20. RobPhoboS

    Baffled sump

    Either of these if you're looking for new: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/oil-pans/134-350z-de-greddy-high-capacity-oil-pan-13525905.html https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/oil-pans/152-350z-de-stillen-oil-pan-upgrade-401140.html I went for a spacer and cooler rather than the above, I'm tracking, not drifting. But the main thing is extra capacity and cooling (imho), and both or all are worthwhile anyway ! (you have more oil, you aren't going to suck up air because it get's a spacer on the pick-up)
  21. Thank you gents, I saw that Chris Drift also went behind the ABS unit, it didn't look easy at a glance. Did you go from the cabin first then out to the engine bay 350jimbobz?
  22. Still no luck yet, I had a quick look by the battery, I see a big bunch of cables going into a rubber grommet, I'm guessing that's one way into the cabin? Seemed high up.
  23. There's a video that popped up on YouTube this week showing you how to manually open it JUST in case you're stuck, have a search
  24. Definitely a fun car to have, especially as a company one too
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