RobPhoboS

I like it, you can definitely hear the cams doing their thing but like you say, needs the tune and to hear it moving around. If you end up down this way let me know, I have a good way for sound

I prefer separating work/music from gaming so am solidly in the console (xbox) gaming side of things. I did this about 6 years ago. If I had the space, I'd probably use the PC for racing sims but since I don't, the joypad is what I'm stuck with. Like yourself, I can't be bothered updating it every couple of years for very little improvement, sure it might be fractionally prettier but if a game is crap, it's crap Cheers for the heads up on the XIM4, I had no idea we could do that now ! (like others, yeah FPS with M&K is better) I'm keen on racing games with VR but once again that'll feel great with a wheel\seat set up and can't do that now. I feel this thread, like other things in life will be divided by what someone has invested more money and time in, it'll get rationalised that way rather than objectively.

Cheers guys, I already have the bushings done and definitely Super Q So you didn't need to change any bearings, or add shims ect ? So the seals would be these parts: 38342-P9010 x 2 (Output Shaft Seal) 38189-P0117 x 1 (Pinion Seal)

Couple of guides to rebuilt it:

valet mode - or this thingy: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/115061-torqen-were-now-sprintbooster-authorised-dealer/

How many track days have you done with the OS now ? Annnnd - how much material do you think is left ?

You probably missed my other thread about seats n rails heh, all of that stuff is cool from my side but I guess useful for anyone looking

I am looking at some point in getting a Kaaz 1.5 way diff Super Q (I presume the 2 way is a waste for me, not drifting). I prefer grip over slip, doing track days. I've looked at a few guides to give me the rough idea but I don't know what extras, if any I require with this specific diff, or if there are other modifications to be done ? Cheers for any help on this

So it's done like this: And the other side with the red\female buckle bit goes through the side of the seat, thus potentially requiring an extender. Not like this: The belt is useless like that. Hopefully that kind of illustrates what I meant.

When I rebuild my one, I'm changing them out regardless since they are cheap for up-rated ones or OEM. Seems stupid not to when going to that effort.

Cheers for the advice It would more likely be a 4 point roll cage (so the hoop is behind the seats) rather than an out and out full cage IF I ever did go that route. A friend was with her brother, driving their dads GT3RS which had a full cage, terrible weather conditions and a collision happened, he was in a coma for about 4 weeks as his head hit the bar by the windscreen ! (I'm guessing he was using the normal seat belts) I would either go with 4 point ASM, or 6 point, and obviously use the belt as normal (maybe with an extender so it fits properly). I'll post up what Schroth advise as well.

Hopefully this won't turn into some ridiculous heated debate but from my limited understanding, you aren't meant to use harnesses unless there is some kind of roll cage fitted. (not to confuse harness bar with roll cage) The theory (I guess in testing too?) is that if you are using a harness (without the cage) and the car rolls, there isn't enough structural integrity (usually) in the roof/pillars, so you end up being that support via your head\neck\back. I've already contacted Schroth to see what they offer for us 2 seaters, as they have some nice products for cars that have back seats, and want to use a harness without all of the extra stuff required. I'm hoping that they say a harness bar + their 4 point ASM belts will be fine. Although since enough people here also have buckets, harnesses etc I thought it was worth asking too

Obviously it depends how the first owner or two used it (regarding engines that aren't rebuilt) and serviced it ! My DE drinks it up, compression test ok - but likely to be valve stem seals for me. As to how much, I' don't quite know as I got side-tracked part way through checking it weekly, so once I drop it again this weekend I'll keep an eye on it (not that it helps the OP). The point is, if it does use oil, how much is it actually using. If it doesn't use oil, great you get a gold star

Yer do have a bigger sump and Oil cooler however I'm sure the oil cooler needs more work, It's not getting the temperature down much. What oil did you go for? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk I went for Mobil 1, good price on Opie at the moment, I've not used it before so I don't know how high the quality is but better than my usual stuff I think. (Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO FLEX XTL) I'll go onto Pro S and will stick with 5w30 as the cooler seems to work nicely. Ideally I'll start sending the oil away for analysis makes more sense rather than just guessing.

0.5lt seems alright to me for a DE but for a new build, no idea. Driving hard will use oil, as you are typically holding onto lower gears for longer, so yeah it'll use it no matter what. As to how much specifically, hard to know. Don't forget smoke and oil burning can be caused by valve stem seals that need replacing. Were they replaced ? Also if you do a lot of hard driving, think about having an oil cooler and an oil pan spacer since it's not much oil in the OE system. Did you run the engine in properly ? (I'm assuming they directed you to)

Yup I'm just changing my oil too, 2 in track days just done. Phil have you got an oil cooler + pan spacer/sump ?

One thing is sure, if we do go back cap in hand to the EU, we are going to bent over and not even greased up...... Hopefully that's not even a possibility ffs.

Same $h!t, different name - nothing will change ultimately. Where's the Monster Raving Loony Party ?

So it's £37.50 per tub ?

Sorry to hear about your doggy The car is looking very nice ! (we're almost twins on that front ) I'm using CL RC5+ pads on the track, and swap them over to stoptech road pads (amazing bite now the discs are worn in). I love the CL pads, and will try out the RC6 pads next but I don't run them on the road, I prefer having the 2 separate pads for their jobs (same with tyres when I can afford it). They aren't cheap but they're sintered and won't disappoint, I'm going to have to route in some brake cooling ducts as started cooking up the fluid, and looks like I have heat spots on the discs

I did the same thing that Erni902 did too when I got them as I read elsewhere on the forum (another brand) that they can do this. I didn't want to risk it and did the sealant too

Yep, a vx220 caught fire, an rx8 self blew up on the first hot lap and a very unlucky guy chopped his finger off whilst shutting his door or boot! :scare: :scare: Who organised the day ? Damien ?

Ah that's really great you're enjoying them too ! Especially in a completely different universe of power to me I thought I'd also update this too since I've done 2 more track days, both at Snetterton 300 in the last 2 weeks. On the sighting laps I left the GT1's in my road going settings, which is around -21 for the front, and -23 for the rears. Once we've done those, I let out about 7psi from the tyres, dial them up to around -8 front, -10 rear. Do about 5 laps to get some heat in the tyres and see how it is out there, then come in again, drop more tyre pressure and then set the GT1's to -1 front, -2 rear. It's genuinely amazing how even a few clicks can make a noticeable difference to how the car responds. Once it's up to nearly full hardness (ooer), I can't feel the need to want any more than that, especially with the SPL bushings, there's just enough pitch from rear to front when you're on the brakes but not so much that you've unsettled the balance. When nipping off to fill up with fuel, I pulled over pretty quickly as the hard settings are too much for our roads, 30 seconds later and it's nice and comfortable again! I'm a totally novice track driver, and hoping to get plenty of track time and tuition this year. My hope is that as I get better I'll be able to explore some settings with geo, corner balancing and subtle changes on the suspension so that the car is responding how I want it to. At the moment my brain is focusing on lines, braking points and other cars, before I have the capacity to sense the subtle stuff. It feels great to me but I know I need to start exploring the limits, turning the traction off etc but I'd rather take it step by step than to think I'm a hero. (the wheels are changing colour again, very similar but needed a fresh coat) Thirsty car on the track ! Managed to darken the colour of the front calipers, started cooking the brake fluid just before lunchtime, so some cooling ducts will be added soon:

Definitely not, the Devastator would be awesome. It's more the experience I've had with how they behave on track, especially when there is loads it gets very irritating pulling over whilst 8 of them wizz by lap after lap, then they go flying off the track etc.

I've got one too, just over at Snetterton in case anyone else is around ?