RobPhoboS

I know you're new, and welcome ! but definitely search, it's usually been asked before Good tips/images here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/115219-bumper-clip-bracket-repair-alternative/page__hl__undertray Either use the search on the site, or a far more powerful way (as it goes back yonks): Go to google, and paste this in: site:350z-uk.com undertray (for example) I've got a couple of zip ties on my one where it happened

Great video and tribute right there, well done Tragic that you've had to do it at all but I imagine he'd certainly approve of that mad machine you guys built !

Yep there's loads and loads of good channels, I don't have a TV either

Although not really my thing - this could be handy for the people that are more into styling as he covers a lot of what people ask for... I guess all the noobs will miss this post but hey ho https://www.youtube.com/user/Shinai737/videos Examples:

That would be brilliant if we can get something sorted. Just one thing... NO CATERHAMS !

Yup, if they're good they'll sort it.

Brilliant, it makes for a far more memorable, funny trip although I'm sure it'll add some grey hairs too

You might as well see how you get on first but I you may require the rear aches rolling. As Ekona said, leave TCS on and see if it cuts in - I don't think you're going to spin off into a field, well as long as the tyres are good

Cheers for the heads up guys, I'm not worried about mot stuff anyway I'll keep this updated with photos once I have something to fit!

Cheers guys. I'll get sub-frames that are low (basically sitting on the floor), which accommodate for the driver side weird wedges, if they aren't good then a chap I know will be able to do something with them. Then I'll use these side mounts which ben used: Hopefully that'll give me enough movement to mount them close enough.

Just saw this thread, cheers for the pics on the seat mounts, definitely useful ! I also had a bit of smoke, good compression for the age\mileage so it's likely the valve stem seals. I used some Wynns Stop Leak, and didn't get any more smoke

Definitely a mixed bag right there ! Duly noted but anything to add more specific to my questions ? Or just order the low sub-frames, and bolt directly to it and hopefully enough forward adjustment with the side mounts ?

So it's quite powerful then !

Right straight off the bat, I'm already booked in at GSM at the end of the month to go and try a bunch out but I'm just trying to figure things out so I have a clearer idea of how I'm going to proceed, and lots of you have done this already. (as I can order before, or on the day) I currently have my sweet cheeks on the stock leather seat and use a CGlock thingy for the seatbelt, which does a fair job and I just about fit with my new lid (old one rubbed on the roof). But you know what it's like, more track days... and I find the leather seat uncomfortable for my back. I'm 6ft, around 100kg but I tend to have the seat quite forwards and upright, reclined a little bit when I've got the lid on. Ben and Harry both have the Bimarco Futura's in their cars, and are quite big lads but say the seats are excellent, although GSM have warned me that ' we wouldn't expect it to fit the vehicle'. I'm told from the guys it fits but it'll touch the door card, I guess it needs to be a bit closer to the tunnel. Ben is using a OMP mount (allows for some side movement, and serveral holes for forward/back position) and a custom sub-frame. Obviously it's bolted in, so you either fit or you don't. I know someone that could do the fabrication work, or I can import one from the US (similar to the Planted Technology frame). Harry is using an M2 sliding rail mount, which has a little bit of sideways adjustment I believe but doesn't have door cards, good if others are going to use the car or if you drop various crap and can move the seat These are the seats that fit the budget but perhaps not the car ! Bimarco Futura (595mm total width) Mirco GT 3D (590mm total width) Sparco Rev II (585mm total width) OMP Champ (590mm total width) Tomorrow a mate should be able to measure his GT3 seats as I fit fine in those, so I may not require the larger type of bucket seat for big butts. Then for the mounting I'm a bit stuck too: Seat + M2 rails - possible width issues, potential height & lid issue Seat + sub-frame + side mounts - might need some custom fab work Seat + sub-frame + side mounts + rails - possible height issue with lid Lastly it's the harness, I lean towards a 6 point harness but I guess it will require some meddling somewhere to get the crotch strap things in ? I can't really afford to splash loads on it, so if you have any suggestions please bare that in mind

That's awesome stuff I was considering heading over this weekend too but I imagine it'll be very busy ! (got Snetterton booked for Fri)

I have a pair for sale if anyone needs them: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107093-poly-bushings-for-sale-superpro-prothane/

If you bought a cheap ebay one, return it for a refund and buy a proper one.

I took my ones off and used my bearing press when fitting the SPL bushings. BUT... One of them didn't fit - so I made this, threaded rod/sockets/washers and yeah, you could technically leave it on IMHO:

Sounds like he's on stock kit.

That's good thinking right there. Maybe but rear discs don't get all that hot unless you have been giving it some beans, which is unlikely on 30mph tootles to work. And the handbrake is shoe-based so that won't be the issue. I used the word 'possibly' as he didn't state how he'd been driving. Anyway, he should try out a proper bedding in process first

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, you could take most of that stuff off and inspect it properly. Replace with better parts from the breakers, or new if needs be. I prefer POR15 rather than Waxoil but anything like that will be better than leaving it alone. Worth using some of the Bilt Hamber products for rust removal too.

BTW, it's usually toe that causes tyre wear at the edges, not strictly camber. I usually go with half a degree less on the rear compared to the front, approximately. (ie -2.5 front, -2 rear) As long as you have the adjustable parts, have a play. The place I tend to go to will dial it in, I'll go and drive it and then comment on it, we can adjust it further if needs be. I'm set more for road/track rather than all out track work.

Watch this... Read this... http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths It's free and easy to do, so always worth doing, use your common sense of course and don't bring the car to a stop or you'll be doing the same thing over again.

They don't warp! (unless you got them from lidl ) Just go and do a bedding in process but about 15-20x, not just 10x slow downs. My friend thought his e92 m3 discs were warped on tue, getting crazy vibration through the car when braking. Did some bedding in, and part way through the track day at Spa yesterday they had gone back to normal. (just to prove a point) As long as the hubs were clean and you torqued everything up correctly, it'll be deposits from the pads. Worth checking of course Possibly because you got them hot and left the hand brake on/foot on pedal without letting them cool down.

You don't ever want to put cheap headers in anything but a 4pot, least of all our ones.