Colin747

Could they just have been over tightened?

The panel gap on my rear lights seems to start off normal and then gets progressively smaller towards the rear of the car, is there some sort of rubber washer etc. that may be missing that's causing this? My car: Normal:

Mine has an upRev (DE) and peak power is at 5600 RPM, I believe mine drops off as I still have the stock exhaust system in place. I set the shift light to come on at 5500 RPM so I know I'm at peak power.

That's great, many thanks for your help. The can I have at least has a long 8" nozzle on the end so hopefully that'll be of some help.

Many thanks for your help! Do the rear lights need removed or do you just need access to those rectangle holes circled?

I've not heard that before, mind if I ask why that is?

The only reason I ask is when I was getting work done at a bodyshop they seemed to be under the impression that if you strip the boot out there would be some sort of access there which you could spray the waxoil through, but looking at this photo of a stripped boot I can't figure out if there actually is.

Those seats are outstanding, how well would the Alcantara wear on a seat?

If someone came up to me and asked my opinion on something (as the OP has done by creating this thread) I would give constructive criticism. As I've said we're all appreciative of the work you guys put in and this shouldn't be taken as a personal slight by any means.

I agree with LRF4N, the replies I've seen so far seem to be constructive criticism and have stated their appreciation for the work that the team puts in to the upkeep/updating etc. of the forum.

Sadly I have to echo what a lot of other people are saying in that it seems harder to easily skim/lack of flow. It's something that's hard to put your finger on though and as someone who works in software dev I can appreciate that it's hard feedback to work with as there isn't a clearly defined problem but it just feels awkward to use...which is probably of no help haha The place does seem dead in comparison to the old skin but it seems your hand was forced in this upgrade.

I got my 350 aligned a few months ago at a well known local store and long story short they ****ed it up. My alignment is now corrected but in the mean time a brand new set of Pilot Sport 4's have worn unevenly. If we take one of the tyres which has worn 4mm 6mm 4mm (left, centre, right), will all three sections wear at a normal even rate (Xmm/Yweeks) or will the 6mm section wear faster than usual to "catch up" to the 4mm sections?

Is there a guide anywhere on how you could apply wax oil to the rear arch cavity yourself?

I'm sure people will have more detailed answers but as a rough answer: 1. For the additional cost in Tax, is upgrading to a zed with a HR engine worth it? - General consensus is yes and it doesn't really add up to much more if you break it down to a weekly basis and think that way. Plus, you get the better engineered engine (I think there may be oil gasket issues on some) and a slightly better interior (I wouldn't get your hopes up there though). 2. Performance gains through modding. Is there more scope with the HR engine than there was with the DE engine? - There are more aftermarket parts available for the DE engine but the HR is better for forced induction. I suppose technically there are more gains to be had with the DE, but this is likely to still be less power than the HR unless you start doing cam work etc. (Horsham have a thread of a 330hp DE that's had cam work, they said an HR pulls at 310hp on their dyno - so that's a fair bit of money/work to exceed the HR). I believe the HR can hold multiple maps though, would need to confirm that with someone. 3. Lastly, are the differences between a HR zed and a DE zed, significant enough to be a deal breaker? - I wouldn't say so, it's more lots of small changes. Updated head/tail lights, slightly better interior, bonnet bulge, etc. If you were definitely going to FI then I'd go for the HR otherwise I'd just buy the best condition car regardless of the engine. I'm a tad odd but if it were me I'd prob go for a RevUp car (one without excessive oil consumption problem if possible) as apparently the HR got a tad heavier so the extra power isn't a huge difference. So with the RevUp you get some extra power without the extra weight (the weight issue could be exaggerated/made up so happy to be proven wrong).

I'm planning to get the cavity of my rear arches waxoiled but was wondering is there anywhere else that would be worth doing at the same time? (the underside has already been done)