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About Kryptek49

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    Z Dedicated
  • Birthday 26/12/1995


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  1. Removing the seats is easy enough - remove negative battery terminal, unplug 3/4 connectors under seat + 4 bolts holding the seat down. If you get an airbag warning light it's a pretty easy reset as well. Can't advise on the pricing at all, but you can find used front seats on ebay in the £2-300 range (for the pair) that are in pretty good condition. Obviously they'll be used and won't be perfect, but could be worth looking into if it's less than half the price?
  2. Thanks Alex, pretty simple really wasn't it! Took the terminal off properly yesterday, stretched it out and it all fits perfectly now.
  3. I'll give this a go, the main issue is just getting it seated in the first place though! I've even tried a new gold plated battery terminal I had lying around, and that didn't fit properly either.
  4. Weird - my negative battery terminal was also loose! Every time i clamped it down it would just slide right off. Turns out there was some oil on the connection which wouldn't allow it to grip correctly, I've cleaned it all up and it seems to be fine now, but I'm still not happy with either to be honest. I'll try a new bolt later
  5. I replaced my battery not to long ago with a Varta D47, and now the positive terminal doesn't seem to fit properly. It used to be fully seated, but now the top part of the clamp is not even on the terminal. I've tried expanding the clamp with a set of pliers, and tapping it on gently with a rubber mallet but none of this helps. On Tayna's website it shows the D47 terminals are standard fitment - has anyone else experienced this issue? Should I just be more forceful to get it to seat correctly? Thanks
  6. FYI my HR also has a noisy transmission - so please don't upgrade expecting the noise to be improved!
  7. Yeah @AlexRussell99 you free any other weekend?
  8. @Scarabrae and I are meeting up with our Zeds on Sunday 9th June, probably at Browns Cafe, Mundford - near Thetford, around midday. Anyone else local want to join us?
  9. No problem - these were removed at about 100,00 miles, no MOT issues, but replaced with HFC's
  10. The internals aren't exposed - just the outer metal of the cat which is very solid. The heat shields are only there to reduce heat, they don't provide any other function such as reducing emissions or being a structural part of the cat Here's a photo of one of my cats with heat shield removed for reference:
  11. I doubt the stock cat needs replacement - unless you're failing emissions on your MOT? The cats have heat shields round them, which can start to rattle when they corrode, you can remove them and shouldn't have any problems unless you park on dry grass a lot. I managed to remove the heat shield on my cat without removing them by just by jacking the car up, cutting through it with a dremel and pulling it off - I'm sure a garage could do this for you pretty cheaply if necessary.
  12. Fairly certain the car is off - the battery dial would be much higher if the car was on.
  13. https://www.calibrecarsales.co.uk/vehicle/nissan-350z-v6-2dr-in-colchester-essex-8f4ccece-4b31-4669-aaa8-aa3900d60041
  14. You're right - I bought my HR last year for £8,000 - 94k miles, decent condition, gallery gaskets sorted, UpRev remapped and Cobra exhaust. For 10K you should definitely be able to get an HR with around 50-60K miles, which I would definitely choose over this one. In fact here's a stock HR with 44k miles for only £250 more: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201905077706313?year-from=2008&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=350 Z&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=sponsored&radius=1500&postcode=pe304yq&maximum-mileage=60000&make=NISSAN&page=1
  15. All sorted now - removed the bracket from the top - clutch feels brilliant - would definitely recommend to every Zed owner!



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