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Kryptek49

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About Kryptek49

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  1. Didn't realise I'd missed the deadline! If anyone can't make it please let know and I'll pay for your tickets (+1)
  2. I've just finished a speaker & amp install so might be able to give you a rough idea. I've got the exact same head unit as well. Yes you can just upgrade the speakers. You'll need to buy/make a set of spacers as the new speaker will be too deep to fit. I found that the stock spacer didn't fit my 6.5" speakers so I had to make my own out of MDF. The spacer needs to be at least an inch thick. To get the most out of it you will want to install an amp, otherwise you won't be utilising the speakers to their full potential. If you don't want to do that, I'd be tempted to bypass the Bose amp completely, meaning running wires from your head unit to the speakers. I put new wires in for the front speakers, which is a PITA as you have to drill holes in the plastic connectors that go through the doors. Once you know how to do it though it's pretty easy. The rest of the wires are very easy to run, just pop of a few panels, and tuck them all in, it's really not that bad of a job as long as you don't mind spending a weekend doing it.
  3. Now making the speaker spacers: I bought 18mm MDF, but you need at least an inch thick to clear the window (depending on speaker depth). I plan on gluing the 2 together, and hoping 36mm isnt too thick it hits the door card
  4. Nothing to heavy, my amp only puts out 200W RMS bridged @ 4ohms, so that limits my Sub choices fairly heavily. But the Zed is a pretty compact car so I don't really need anything large to get a lot of bass . Looking at this at the moment: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JL-Audio-10W0v2-4-Car-Subwoofer/dp/B002PY5EBY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=10"+subwoofer&qid=1554720920&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Thoughts? I also want to mount it in the stock sub location, I'll fabricate a box for this but I'm currently unsure on how to secure it properly.
  5. New amp in, head unit fuse is no longer blowing so all good there! I had left the original wiring attached to the door speakers, which was causing some kind of interference despite the bose amp not getting any power. I've now removed these and everything is working perfectly Next up - a sub install + fitting some new Alpine coaxial speakers up front on Tuesday. I'll replace these with components in future, and possibly move the coaxials to the rear speakers. All sorted now though, so I'm happy!
  6. Okay didn't get much time to test everything tonight, but the new battery is in. Weird screechy noises coming from the speakers when the cars on, and when turning it off it does it as well. The 15A fuse for the permanent live to the radio has blown. Replaced it and turned the radio on and it blew again. I'll disconnect the amp to see if this is the cause tomorrow
  7. The cold air might give it away IIRC, mine turns on as soon as I turn the car on, regardless of if the dial is set to off. I'll double check after work if no-one else can confirm it.
  8. The power wire came loose so could have touched anything tbh, I really should have been more careful. So if it had touched one of the speaker wires this would have killed the amp? But if it had touched ground I might be okay? There was a distinct burning smell, I didn't hear any crackling (speakers were popping though so could have missed it I suppose).
  9. Looks like a good unit, thanks. I never plugged in the sub, so I'll check if that works later. I'm pretty certain I shorted the sub though, after installing it I twisted it round so I could get to the gain adjustment dials and must have put to much pressure on the live/ground wires in the back as when I turned it back round they were loose... I'm assuming they touched each other, but don't know for definite yet. Amp fuses weren't blown, and the inline fuse next to the battery is fine as well.
  10. Well @*!#... Any recommendations on a replacement amp? Don't need something super powerful - just a 4 channel amp with enough power to drive a decent pair of speakers. Preferably under £100, I don't mind buying used
  11. Nope, all you need to do is pull out the centre arm rest and run the phone cable alongside the existing wires. 1 - Remove air-con controls 2 - Remove gear knob 3 - Move seats all the way forward and remove the 2 screws on either side of the centre console behind the seats 4 - Unplug any wires around the gear knob 5 - Remove centre console (If you've got a DE, you may need to remove a single screw from the middle somewhere) You can then run your phone cable down the middle and have it poke out of the bluetooth bit. Should take you around 20 minutes in total. Be careful with the rubber handbrake cover though, as this is not removable without breaking it though (which I found out)

350z-uk.com

370z-uk.com

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