Olly350z

A spirited drive isn't whats required as they will cool down in-between, you need to literally hold it at x amount of revs for several minutes so they are HOT and then test the emissions straight away. High flow cats are never a guaranteed way of passing emissions though. You're other option is find a friendly tester or leave a box of beers in the car? Mine used to always look the other way providing everything else was safe

You don't need to remove them to test them, removing the air intake will cause its own set of issues particularly if you disconnected the MAF. You mention the car is hunting, do you mean rev hunting? To test them, all you need to do is unplug them one at a time at the coilpack. You'll see the engine loom that runs around. With the car running and everything where it should be, unplug them at the connector one at a time, a long nose screw driver helps here. You will hear the engine note drop noticeably as its essentially dropped a cylinder. If you hear the difference,

An intermittent coilpack failure will be near on impossible to diagnose without specific diagnostic equipment, however what Alex has recommended will work providing you get lucky and it decides to misbehave I had a similar issue back in 2018 on my DE in which a coilpack was failing resulting in a totally random misfire which would come as quickly as it cleared, and I finally bit the bullet when it went into limp mode on a busy roundabout leaving me stranded. Euro car parts do (did, this was 3 years ago) a OE equivalent coilpack called Bremi. When I pulled all my oem p

Paid the Valeted due to an operation last week, not been driven in a month so thought I'd let her sit out and bask in the sun.

Yes, I fitted a similar kit to my 350z and it worked a treat. Certain kits say you should notch the subframe for greater adjustment but I never bothered. I was pretty low on coilovers and once properly aligned never had any tyre issues. Must've done a good 15K on them and they look good as new, see photo I recommend plenty of rust buster to soak the nuts / bolts in and a long extension bar. Not the type of job you want to be doing on the floor as you won't get enough leverage and end up stripping the nuts

The rear is adjustable, I'd imagine your toe bolts are seized hence why you still have toe on one side. Maybe time for a freshen up on the suspension

Do not manually adjust the throttle bodies with them still attached to the car. You'll bugger then instantly. I suspect your hesitation on idle is not related. Hesitation on pull away is a symptom of low oil pressure which HRs are known to suffer from. I would suggest taking it to a specialist, Horsham developments or Abbey Motorsport for a checkover. At least that way you'll get a very clear picture of the cars health without incurring an eye watering bill needing two throttle bodies

They're pretty slow stock, they're getting pretty old and more and more are becoming a spotty teenagers wet dream meaning there are some absolutely horrific examples out there. That said, they have one of the biggest personalities on the car market and that character will keep you smiling and turning back around to see where you've parked. Probably the best motorway cruiser I've ever driven while doing 30mpg with the cruise control on. On a B road they're nimble enough to have some real fun with enough poke to to give most things a run, but they will step out on you i

My man! Don't ignore warning signs like that again! I'm glad to hear you went to hospital and they've managed to get you back on the road to recovery. I wish you a speedy recovery and back to full health, we've got lots of shows the natter at !

So basically you created the very niche problem that nobody else knew how to fix so nobody else decided to comment so not to lead you in the wrong direction which you then got knocky about and then posted another reply pointing that out, before actually posting the answer because someone gave you the attention you originally wanted for the very niche problem no-one knew how to fix. Cool 🤯

The former Category D (Cat D) has been replaced by Category N (Cat N). This refers to cars that haven't suffered structural damage, but some safety-critical components such as steering, brake or suspension components may require replacement. Again, if properly repaired, a Cat N car can be legally returned to the road. A Cat S or Cat N marker can sometimes be given to cars with relatively minor damage. An older, low-value car might be written off after a light scrape in a car park, simply because the cost of processing the insurance claim exceeds the car’s value. The ame

I had the 370z side repeaters fitted to my old 350z, was super easy to cut and splice them in, literally two wires a side Get a bodyshop to cut the hole and you'll be set. Looks so much cleaner then the badge and standard repeater

This applies more to DE's and Rev ups rather than HRs

Some may disagree but to me, I hate to say it but that warm idle is too low. Nissan state that 15psi is minimum warm idle, so I'd strongly recommend getting it checked. Years back buddy of mine bought a HR with 34k miles on the clock. We knew the gaskets needed doing, and when done by Abbey Motorsport the results were night and day different. He never saw below 30psi at idle even after a blast.

Unfortunately this is one of the known faults with the HR gearbox, and the gallery gaskets for the engine. I don't mean this horribly but I assume you did your research before buying? While at HDEV I'd get your oil pressure checked as this known fault effects most HRs. More good news is that job alone will cost you circa 900 quid