Keith D

According to the internet, 2012 - 2014 US cars still had the steering lock fitted, so it could be this issue, symptoms match I would genuinely test for that first Then I'd check the steering lock fuse and relay in the power distribution module (the box by the battery) Then I'd check the wiring diagram and pull some trim off and trace where that plug should be

Has it ever started and run since you've had it?

Sounds a bit like the infamous steering lock issue, YouTube it

The bung locations I believe are for different years and engines DE/Rev Up/HR. It will be a universal aftermarket cat. The OE cat has 2 substrates (the honeycombe filter bit) a HFC will have only one. The 'pre cat' sensor is for air fuel ratio, the 'post cat' monitors the cat efficiency. You'll likely want to get the post cat sensors disabled so they don't throw a fault, so it doesn't really matter which bung you use. Fit the sensors back to suit a tidy harness run.

Don't know about the nismo but the GT undertray is one piece, and I cant say it looks anything like that. But yes clearly something missing on that photo are there are 4 clips for screws.

I don't use underseal as it can dry and crack. I jet wash and then use Bilt Hamber Dynax.

DTI gauge will show it, you can get them for £20

The fact new discs and pads fixed it for a while, then it came back, suggests piston / slide pins might be the root cause. One pad isn't retracting, creating heat, warping the disc. I've never heard of pagid but copilot suggests they are not the best quality. Buy cheap buy twice is the old saying. When it comes to brakes and tyres I always buy the best I can afford, they're the things keeping you alive! Do you have a DTI gauge to check disc runout again? If that's okay then I'd lift the front, get a crowbar, and check every joint and every rubber on the front suspension for play.

5 or 6 yes's so far

Totally get why people make the comparison, but ECUs really don’t age the way consumer electronics do. Years ago I worked in automotive electronics, and the architecture of an ECU has almost nothing in common with a laptop or phone. They run fixed‑purpose firmware, not an operating system. They communicate over CAN/K‑Line, not Wi‑Fi or USB. And unlike a home computer, an ECU is designed to survive a level of abuse that would kill any consumer device instantly — they’re literally “shaken and baked” through extreme vibration, heat‑soak, cold‑soak, humidity, electrical noise, and EMI testing. If a PC went through even 10% of that, it would die on the spot. So a 22‑year‑old ECU isn’t “old tech” in the way people imagine. If the car is running well, the sensors are healthy, and you’re not pushing beyond what the factory logic can handle, the stock ECU is still perfectly capable. A standalone like Haltech or Link only becomes a benefit when you need extra control — big cams, forced induction, custom fuel strategies, race features, etc. For a weekend/track Z that’s staying NA or mildly modified, the OEM ECU is solid and more than up to the job.

I recently fitted Conti sport contact 7s all round on the 370z, I have been blown away with the huge lateral grip, in the dry whatever the speed whatever the corner there is just a mountain of grip. Not really an all weather tyre though. For a year round daily I'd probably look at a Michellin cross climate or a Conti all season.

Ticket booking = Haynes Motor Museum August 2nd Breakfast Club Its £5 I'll drop a post on ZocietyUK and ZedsSW Facebooks, and we can agree a meet up for drive in, there are a few local services on the A3030 a short blast from the museum And lets have no more talk about fisting please, this is a family website 😁

You can buy universal 2" and 3" velocity stacks on ebay, I'm sure you can figure out how to make them fit an airbox.

Small but friendly turnout, great to meet a few new faces

You never watched All Creatures Great and Small then on UK Gold? Fisting cows was a weekly occurrence 🤣