Keith D

Looking rather sorry for itself. If it hasn't run for 2 years I'd want to check oil, remove the plugs, scope the bores if you have the kit, turn it over on the crank by hand, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank and build oil pressure, then fire it up before I gave a penny, but if it starts and runs 18k seems reasonable. Nice project to rescue, a detail will work wonders.

DBA T3 4000. Brilliant on road and track. JMHO.

I get the comparison with Japanese cars in the 80s, but it doesn’t really fit the situation today. Back then the issue was perception, not engineering. The Japanese stuff was already mechanically brilliant — light, simple, over‑engineered and reliable. People mocked them because they were new and cheap, not because they were badly built. With modern Chinese EVs the question isn’t “can they pass a crash test?” — clearly they can. The real unknown is long‑term durability, battery ageing, software support, corrosion protection, and how they hold up after 10–15 years of British weather and potholes. That’s the bit we simply don’t have data for yet. Phones and laptops being made in China doesn’t tell you anything about how a 2‑tonne EV copes with structural fatigue or inverter failures a decade down the line. Sales numbers don’t prove engineering quality either. MG and BYD are selling because they’re cheap, subsidised and loaded with gadgets. Fair play to them — competition is good. But comparing that to something like a Zed, which we know can do 150k+ miles without turning into a laptop on wheels, is apples and oranges. One is a long‑term mechanical machine, the other is a short‑cycle consumer product with a battery pack. On the weight thing — yes, everything has gained weight, but a 2‑tonne AMG GT is heavy because it’s carrying a twin‑turbo V8, a transaxle, a DCT and a full cooling system. A 2‑tonne EV is heavy because the battery alone weighs half a tonne. Not the same engineering challenge, not the same compromises. And sure, some niche EV brands have solved charging or weight for their segment, but that doesn’t magically make every heavy EV a “sports car”. Charging for a fiver is great, but running costs don’t equal build quality. They don’t tell you anything about how the suspension arms, bushings, seals, battery, or electronics will look in 2035. And just to put it in perspective — a 25‑year‑old Skyline GT‑R now commands a six digit price tag, deservedly, and still looks as good today as it did back then. I’ll happily wager no Chinese EV will ever be that car, or hold that kind of legacy.

At 2 tonnes the Cyberster is a joke. There are 2 brand new in the local MG near me, they've been there for best part of a year and no one is buying. Before it started selling Chinese crap it was a quality used lot and it was packed every time I drove past, and always had transporters bringing new stock. I barely see anyone in there now. For Cyberster money you can have a R8, GTR, or Boxster, TVR, TR6 on the drive and keep the change.

EVs are quick in a straight line but I've never driven one that could go around a corner like a sports car, and every petrolhead knows it. As for Chinese brands, I've never seen one that wasn't cheap and nasty junk.

That grotty tinwork in your photo that's rusting in layers is just a shield that goes from nearside to offside, just cut it off and throw it away. Its sole purpose appears to be to make MOT testers fail cars.

Sounds incredible 👍

Don't use it, synchromesh needs friction to function. You only need to use OE spec gearbox fluid.

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Looks tidy

Depends on bodywork, state of trim etc, but I would imagine you could advertise it now as a project car for £1.5k, or fix it and sell for £4.5-£6k. Six of one half a dozen of the other.

I would change bushes/complete arms both sides, even if one looks fine it's the same age, milage, heat/cold cycles, road salt cycles, same everything. JMHO.

When the synchro presses against the gear it needs friction to speed it up or slow it down to match the speed of the gear. The sleeve and teeth can't lock if the speed isn't close enough. Personally I only ever put in OE / OE spec oil into a gearbox, but I've heard of people using 10W-40 engine oil on old gearboxes.

I use a CTEK battery conditioner when the car's parked in the garage. Optima red top AGM battery, been fine so far.

370z is an evolution of the 350z rather than a different car. JMHO 350z is old school, mechanical, raw,...370z is a bit more refined, bit more power, track little wider wheelbase little shorter, so probably a bit sharper, although 99% of road driving you'd struggle to tell a difference. I've seen some stunning builds of both. I'd be happy with either. I'd say focus on a solid, well maintained, rust free, well loved example. I buy a lot from Torqen never had any problems, decent guys; Tarmac Sportz also has a good reputation. I also buy parts online from the US, Japan etc. There is a huge zed sceen in the US. I run an Infinity exhaust, fits well, great tone, not obnoxious.