Keith D

I can't take credit it's Microsoft's AI

I just plumbed the question into CoPilot (I'm playing around with it never used it before) Which Should You Choose? FXE22HR11 is a direct OE long-life iridium plug—reliable, designed for hybrid VQ series engines. IXEH22TT delivers advanced twin‑tip ignition technology, potentially boosting throttle response, torque, and fuel efficiency, while also maintaining high durability. Practical rule: FXE22HR11 sticks more strictly to OE specs; IXEH22TT offers an upgrade in combustion performance without changing fitment or heat range. Pretty cool eh?

Motul multi ATF is fine, it meets Nissan S spec Demon tweaks have it on offer Buy Motul Multi ATF Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid / Power Steering Fluid | Demon Tweeks

Fluid for life is a marketing thing. Oil degrades slowly over time from heat, contamination, and additive breakdown... that's just fact. There is no oil that Nissan could put in at the factory that wouldn't degrade. With fresh oil you'll have optimum wear protection, heat management and crisper shifting. Ultimately the box will last longer. Do you need to panic to change it now? No, do it at the next service or when time/money allows. Could you run an auto box without ever changing the oil? Yes, probably. A lot will come down to what is your intention for the car? Are you intending to keep it? Or just run it for a bit and sell it?

I changed my auto oil last year on 33k miles and I'll do it again at 60k and 90k whenever I get there. I also dropped the pan, fitted a new filter, and cleaned the magnets. It's an easy job, takes about an hour or so. Personally I've never held with the idea autos are filled for life, I've drained too many high milers down the years and seen the black sludge. JMO. A box of 10 litres of Motul S ATF cost me £142.89, the filter and sump gasket was £22.64. It took about 7 litres, I didn't flush it and not all of the oil drains out. You'll need a small hand pump like this SMOTIVEPRO 1 Liter Multi-Purpose Oil Pump, Hand Fluid Transfer Pump for Engine Oil, Transmission, Brake Fluid, and Gearbox Oil, Precision Fluid Dispensing in Tight Spaces : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Okay, so some interesting findings from my first test. Standard cats, reset STFTs, warm engine, at fast idle the trims are 105% and AFR 14.6. Then I put on the cobra 200 cel cats, and a radium oil catch kit I bought on black Friday. Reset STFTs again, warm engine, fast idle, the fuel trims are now 95% and AFR 14.6. I was expecting HFCs to reduce backpressure and let a bit more oxygen reach the upstream O₂ sensors at idle. That would bias the sensors lean, and the ECU would add fuel. But I got the exact opposite, the ECU is having to take fuel out.🤔

Has anyone ever experimented with welding second bricks into the y pipe? That would give a substrate surface are equivalent to stock cats, but all the advantages of higher flow

Disco biscuits, the real reason football hooligan culture disappeared in the 90s. Everyone was still too loved up from the night before and the only thing on anyone's mind Saturday lunchtime was finding water. And the FA thought it was their all seater stadiums that did it 🤣

Lovely car, a steal at £2500. I genuinely would have bought it myself for that as a second toy. I had mine mapped at Horsham. Being an NA there isn't tons of ultimate power to be had from a remap, but I found a noticeable increase in torque and the car comes alive through the mid range, way more eager to get up and go. And no you're not the oldest fart in here! I'm guessing that could be me (56). Been customising cars since 85 and have no intention of ever stopping and acting my age! Ah raves... the days of meeting at scratchwood services to convoy to a field or an empty warehouse...

Yes this old chestnut. I got my hands on a set of Cobra HFCs today and thought it would be interesting to compare them to a set of OE cats and and a set of HFCs I couldn't get through an MOT despite a remap and getting them cooking. Firstly I'm not trying to pick an argument with anyone nor run down any manufacturer - please don't take offence it's not intended. The 200 cel cat brick is ~4" dia and the substrate is ~4" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 75"sq/inch, the total surface will be 3605"sq. The 300 cel cat brick is ~4" dia and the substrate ~2.3" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 110"sq/inch, the total surface area will be 3170"sq. About 13% less area. I've never pulled an OE cat apart, and unfortunately mine are back on under the car. If anyone happens to have a set kicking about perhaps you can let me know the dimensions, but if I recall the front down pipe bit has a 400 cl ~4" and ~2" long substrate, and the rear part has another bit of oblong substrate maybe ~4" wide x 2" tall and ~2" long. Assuming a substrate surface area of 150"sq/inch, this makes the total surface area approx 5600"sq. I'm going to see if its feasible to get a local friendly garage to do back to back emissions tests (I'll swap the cats). Seems to me there should be a linear graph of substrate area v performance that can be used to help choose an optimum substrate type and size. I found I can can buy bricks online and I have a local custom exhaust fab who can cut and weld my HFCs with new bricks. I'll keep people posted.

Spent the day mocking up the airlift boot build. Pretty pleased with the outcome. The whole lot will need to come out again for finishing / trimming in acoustic cloth. Kept the Bose for now, that will be another project.

Welcome. G37x isn't plain.

The market for a £30k pristine unmolested low mileage 350z is going to be very small.

It's not the infamous, but easily fixed, rear axle click? If so drop a rear wheel and have a look at the rear drive shaft nut in the centre of the hub. There is a thin pressed steel cap which goes over the nut and has castellations for the split pin. It's this thin pressing that is rotating slightly (clicking) because the thin steel castellations will be distorted. Fit a proper machined castellated nut instead, buy the kit from Torqen or Tarmac Sportz. 20 minute job to fit.

It's on the list... this toy really needs to go "tish" 😂