scobie140

I work in the Scottish one so I kinda cheated by having insider knowledge

Is the pressure sender a genuine nissan OEM one? if not you will probably find that this is the issue.

Surely you will use it more than 10 days throughout the year? if so then the sky policy is a much better deal than this

This isn't a thing. Its refinery to fore court via a tankers. And up north the one refinery supplies the lot.

Yep exactly right. The condition of the storage tanks at the garage receiving the fuel would be the biggest issue in fuel quality. When was the last time they were inspected and cleaned out? some garages have been there a long time and tanks will be really old and in a poor state and full of crap by now.

I'd vote no stickers, Paint the calipers to add colour to the wheel area?

Taking advantage of the strangely mild weather were having just now to get my oil changes done for the start of the year A nice quick easy job I thought. Until..... Its hard to make out in the picture but the shoulder is coming away from the nut. And it wasn't brute force and over tightening it before people get their digs in It started to shear before it even got tight Normally this would't have been an issue since the cars off the road but I needed it moved that night so no time to get a new drain hose made up. This meant the ball ache of removing the whole supercharger to remove the hose and stick a plug in only to do it all again next year to stick the new drain hose back on So my nice quick wee job turned into a few hours of cursing and swearing as bit by bit I remembered just how much bits you need to strip just to remove the body of the charger. Any way done now and re fitted. Always a bit paranoid about the belt tension as I know it needs to be tight to stop slippage at high revs but don't want it too tight to put extra load on the bearings so had a bit of trial and error with that and seems to be fine now. 2min job as I've cut a hole out under the tensioner nut so I can easily stick a ratchet in.

I've got a little portable one off amazon years ago, Starts the zed from stone dead no problem several times on the one charge. Well worth the £50 to save messing around with jump leads

This guide will be a massive help to others in the future

Welcome

Great write up and will be really helpful for anyone doing it in the future

Would love one of them

Nice

Thats just mental expecting people to pay that much to tax a car

Hopefully just a service. Possibly get the rusty arches fixed depending on quotes, not had many but the few I've had either wouldn't put a figure on it or just said "expensive, I'd just sell the car mate" Its only a bit of welding and paint ffs!

We use Norbar ones at work mostly, I believe they are owned by snap on. They take a good bit of abuse and punishment and only a few fail the yearly calibration test. Way overkill for the general hobby mechanic probably but a brand I've used a lot due to work. The one Ekona linked should be more than ample for home use.

I've got the same set up on my boosted zed, single mass light weight fly wheel took a bit to get used to but just feels natural now. Very easy and smooth to drive for an uprated clutch

My wee 206 went through a spell of blowing headlight bulbs every few weeks last winter, couldn't find any faults and all of a sudden it stopped and I've not had to change them since. I just put it down to being french

Go bold and vote an animal as a leader. I'd go octopus, i'm sure one predicted all the correct results for a world cup/ euros recently.

8

I'm sure when mines was like this I just used the halfords stuff but heated the plate with a heat gun to give it a slight curve.

Following I'm sure at somepoint it could be a job i'll need to under take, hopefully not but ye never know.

I got a new washer pump for £8ish from euro car parts when mines failed a while back.

The ultra racing W brace for the rear does just the same job as OEM and fits exactly the same but is a fair bit cheaper. Alot of members have swapped to this when their W brace is past it.