scobie140

I didn't bother with that extra bracket just now, my plan was to just go with the one bracket and see if the belt jumped a rib again. I didn't have belt slip before but it did jump a rib once near the end of the year and made a mess of the belt. I wouldn't imagine the other bracket making any difference to the noise/vibration transfer?

I've cut a bit of 1/4" rubber I'll stick between the supercharger bracket and the angle iron and see how it goes. I've found vibration bobbins for mounting machinery that I could possibly try but don't want anything that will flex too much and defeat the purpose of the bracket, trial and error I suppose. Just curious how the guys who have similar fitted have found it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Vehicle-Battery-Lead-Repair-Shim-Fix-Worn-Posts-Loose-Fitting-Terminals/322463019096?epid=906501683&hash=item4b144b3058:g:Rn0AAOSw-kdXyIg0 I've used these before, You might need to do a bit more digging to find JDM sized ones though

Fitted my bracket today. It's going to need a little fine tuning to get it to sit better but should do the job fine. I never took the car a drive as it's not quite ready for that yet but did notice that the resonance noise from the charger is amplified into the cabin now. I'm assuming its because its a solid connection to the chassis now and not through the rubber engine mounts. Have any of you guys who have fitted the one from torqen had this issue? Any ideas on a solution? I was thinking possibly some sort of fibre washer might help dampen the vibration?

Not 100% on the technical specs of the blue but the heat is probably too high on the manifold for it. But there will be something similar out there that will cope with the high temps.

I'm pretty sure that's the same one I fitted, found the clutch to feel much the same as OEM which was a bonus. No complaints so far

Scottish drift championship first round. But they ran a clean car show sort of thing aswel

A few pics from driftland today I'd have up loaded more but it's taking an age clicking every picture individually on my pbone

You might have more luck if you fancy going down the vortec route, can't say i've seen many stillen chargers for sale over the years

I'm running the discs front and back, the pads on the back and fedora 2500 pads on the front. I've only done a few thousand miles on them, they seem decent enough but i've not properly pushed on in them yet.

Pressed the bearings out today. There was a fair bit of grease had escaped from the seals. The bearings have been changed at some point as they are now Skf. Looks like the correct spec, only thing that could be different is the internal clearances from OEM as its a C3 bearing that was fitted ( 6205 2RSH C3 GJN ). I see no reason to change from this so will replace with the same. The tensioner pulley bearings felt a bit tired as well so stripped them out, thankfully they were held in by a cir clip unlike the drive belt pulleys. These were clearly the original cheapo oem bearings as they had no markings on them. These will be upgraded to Skf as well 6003 2RSH GJN. I'll leave these at standard clearance for now and see how they get on

A bit more progress today. Test fitted the above bracket, fits well but I'm going to make the round bar a bit longer so it sits straighter when in position. Hooked up the battery which I charged up last time and it didn't have enough juice to start it. My charger has been temperamental so might need to invest in a new one. Battery is only a few years old so should be fine but it has been stone dead a few times so will need to get it tested and replace if required. Until then I'll just jump start it with my mini battery pack while i need to move the car about the drive. So off with the old belt, a few pics of some of the damage from jumping a groove. don't think I would have got much longer out of it Replaced with a new Gates belt Now to remove the charger jack shaft, only 4 cap screws should only take 5min...... nope Lack of clearance to remove the pulleys in situ meant removing the strut bar again then disconnecting the intake pipework. The bearings feel not bad but it was a tad noisy when running and they're not exactly expensive so will change them anyway. I'll press them out over the weekend and order up some new ones once I have the sizes

looking good

euro car part have them for less than £100 with discount codes usually. Don't know how well the fitment will be though

All depends on how clumsy you are with your wheels. Between me and the Mrs we have only had one alloy kerbed in the last 5 years that I can remember and I've never had any tyre defects or blow outs in even longer on any of our cars. So for us i'd say no but some people love a bit of kerb rash and seem to be unlucky with blow outs. Have you kerbed your alloys consistently over the years? if so then go for it, you will have piece of mind for a few years. Cracking car btw

I almost bought one of their rads when boosting mine as it looked like it would give a lot more clearance but seen a few issues with them popping up on the form so just left it. Glad I did now

Man you never seem to have much luck with this car!

Thats an expensive thermostat!

You will need to order this separately

Clashed with the old firm game aswel that wouldn't have helped

It would probably work fine somewhere sunny but Scotland in the dead of winter sunlight is a bit rare Very very slight progress, Battery is now fully charged ready to be re fitted. Made this up to stop the flex on the supercharger bracket at full beans. It only happened once and it caused the belt to jump a groove so has shredded one side of the belt. I couldn't justify the astronomical price of the official ones £270 odd for a few bits of flat bar and a couple of rose joints. Its not as easy on the eye but only cost me £9 to make and should function fine. Ordered 2x M8 rose joints from the web and the rest is just made up from scrap 1/4" plate and angle bar, 6x new spacers for under the strut bar and machined a bit of round bar to take the rose joints. I've test fitted the brackets and they fit fine but I forgot to measure how long the bar needed to be so just guesstimated, Easy enough to make a longer bar If need be.

I've got the ultra racing one, no issues with it

skidz in falkirk are good

Nothing to worry about just the discs & pads rusting up with the wet weather