scobie140

Tried to fit new ball joints to day and failed miserably My g clamp exploded while trying to press the old ones out. So gave up on that for for today and back to the drawing board. I'll get another clamp and try again but worse case scenario I'll have to take the full assembly off and use a press but if rather not due to the logistics involved in that just now.

Haha easy done!

Its one of the options on the wee digital display thing where your clock is. unless you mean doing away with your analogue one and replacing that with a digital one?

There is a popular mod on the M3's where they open up their back box like this and re-pipe it so its a straight through, sounds much better

Not what I expected to see

Those wheels look mint

1. Wizard: 350z Vortech v3 3:13 pulley, DE bone stock motor, 13psi, UpRev, 450bhp / 400lb/ft @hubs, over 10k boosted miles - BLOWN - NOW NEEDING REBUILD 2. Sam McGoo: 350z Vortech V2 3:33 pulley,'54 DE stock engine, 9.14psi, UpRev 402 HP/336lb/ft @hubs 25k boosted on a 27k engine 3. 4Re Leather: 350z GTM S/CSmall pulley, '09 HR Stock Engine, 10.35psi, 464.5bhp/383.3lb/ft @hubs, 2k boosted on a 17k engine 4. Oskaben: SOLD: 350z Vortech v2 Supercharger, 5k boosted on 36k engine 5. Darren-B: SOLD: 350z Vortech V3 standard pulley, '54 DE stock engine, ??psi, UpRev, 429 HP/???lb/ft @hubs 7k boosted on a 68k engine. SOLD: 370z GTM 1.5 SC 445 RWHP /??? Lb/ft 6k boosted when I sold it on a 8k engine 6. Kev T: 370z GTM Stage 1 SC, VQ37HR stock, 7.5psi, UpRev, 432bhp/ 367ft/lb @hubs torque with standard pulley 7. PlanetSurfer2: 350z GTM TT, stock 'HR motor, 6psi, Uprev Tune, 415bhp and 376lb/ft @hubs, over 4k boosted miles so far 8. Keyser: SOLD: 350z Vortech v2, 3:12 pulley, fully forged 'DE engine, Haltech Platinum Pro ECU, 458bhp / 367lb/ft w/out Nos, 503bhp / 429lb/ft w/ Nos @hubs. 4k boosted miles. NEW: 370z GTM 1.5 SC 445 RWHP /??? Lb/ft 9. andy james: 9. andy james: 350z GTM S/C, small pulley, Fully forged and balanced HR motor, UpRev, 463 bhp/376lb/ft @hubs. 7k total boosted on engine 10. djtimo: 350z APS TT Garrett Kit, fully forged 'DE block, UpRev, 11 psi, 469bhp / 448 lb/ft @hubs: 11. jables: 350z SFR TT, DE stock engine, 7.2psi, UpRev, 404bhp / 380lb/ft @hubs, over 20k boosted on a 37k engine 12. OllyB: 350z GTM S/C, standard pulley, Abbey Motorsport forged engine, bc rods + Ross pistons, 9 psi, Uprev, 471bhp / 371 lb/ft @hubs 13. D12BHP: 350z Vortech V2 Si Trim 3.13 Pulley, fully forged engine.... @ 15psi... 14. GT4 Zed: SOLD: 350z Vortech V2 T trim 2.87 pulley and fluidampr 6.125 crank pulley. 15.9psi 424whp/ 370lbft 15. octet: SOLD: 350z Vortech V2 430rwhp and 360lb/ft torque. NEW: 370z 7AT GReddy Twin Turbo - 553BHP | 465lb/ft on stock engine and 1000bhp built auto gearbox, 8psi, boosted at 22k 16. evilscorp: 350z Vortech V3 Sci, 3.33 pulley, stock engine, boosted 20 miles, 0.1 in anger 428.2hp 370ftlb (flywheel) 358.6 real whp 0.6bar 17. A9H-RX: 350z APS TT KIT Fully Forged Cosworth Internals 'DE Block, 10psi, 502BHP / 455lb/ft @ fly, 20k+ boosted 18. TheChubbyNinja - 350z Vortech V3 SCi, VQ35DE stock, 10psi, UpRev tune, 408.9@ the hub / 336ft/lb torque with 3.12 pulley 19. GMballistic: SOLD - 350Z GT Coupe, Vortech V3 Sci, VQ35DE stock, 3.12" pulley, UpRev tune, 436Bhp@ fly / 368 ft/lbs 20. Clarkie - 350z GT Coupe - Vortech V2, 3.12" Pulley - Uprev Tune - 413.5 @ the hub / 345 ft/lb torque 21. dajw - Stillen Supercharger (Vortech V3) 9lb pulley, test pipes on stock exhaust: 488bhp, 360 lb/ft 22. TT350 - Power Enterprise twin turbo, stock boost, TDI North decats, Scorpion Y pipe back, Motordyne plenum spacer 431.5bhp/360ib/ft tq. 23: Zmanalex - 350Z Roadster DE Forge Built: Twin Turbo: To many parts to mention: 666.8bhp at hubs: 563.9 lb/ft. 1.3 bar 24. Vlad - 350Z DE, stock block, Vortech V3 with 3.12" pulley. Supporting mods. 422.6bhp@hubs and 335.6lb/ft. 25. P15UL T - 350z DE, stock block, vortech V2 with 3.12 pulley, supporting mods. 434.7bhp@hubs and 343.3lb/ft 26. Keyser - 370z GTM Stage 1.5 SC, VQ37HR stock, 7.0psi, UpRev, 440bhp@hubs and ???ft/lb torque (I'll dig the dyno out) 27. Taybo - 350z Revup - Stillen S/C 'tuner', VQ35DE stock, Uprev, 8psi, 370bhp and 350 lb/ft 28. Scobie140 - 350z DE Stock block, Vortech V3 3.12" pulley 405bhp @hubs 340lb/ft

Looks a good repair. I've fitted the JWT clutch & lightened single mass fly wheel when I boosted my zed and I've got to say the clutch feels exactly like the OEM did. The lightened fly wheel did take a bit of getting used to though

Use a proper penetrating fluid. WD40 is a jack of all trades not really a penetrating fluid. Plus gas or easol are much better. Could also try heating the caliper although this will knacker your paint most likely. Try and give it a bit of shock by getting a good hit on it with a hammer, difficult as you don't want to damage the nipple. Worse case scenario it will shear and need drilled and tapped or make a total balls of it and need a new calliper

Always just after you wash the car! I've not washed my wee run around for months and it's had zero bird attacks but the zeds had loads, I think they aim for shiny things

Ahh sounds simple enough. I'm decent with a spanner but I don't have a clue when it comes to the electrical side so very cautious as it's usually expensive if mistakes are made I'll have a look next time I'm working on the car as this could be a mod on the to do list for the winter as I've always wanted a change form the silver innards of the standard lights.

Damn they are for facelift. Shame as they look a lot better than standard lights

Really good write up. I'd love to get a shot at something like that to learn more and improve my techniques.

Nice! what lights are those?

No problem, drop me a pm if you change your mind

Yeh the only way you'll get it out without damaging it is to machine away one of the faces holding it in unfortunately. Mine were plastic so if yours is metal you might be in luck and have a different set up from me. 89009 was the ribbed pulley https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/dac-89009/overview/ $40 for shipping and taxes is what I paid for two Worked out about £50 odd all in I think. Mines is a DE

How thick and what size I/D are you needing? I might be able to help

You can't press the bearing out on those pulleys due to it being moulded around the bearing, part of the no slack design. It's possible that they have a different brand of pulley. Circlips aren't needed with these pulleys but normally the bearings are held in with circlips so you can change just the bearing. Out of boredom since I had ordered new pulleys I pressed one bearing out and it cracked the pulley which I expected. I was going to turn one side of the pulley down on the laith and press it out then fit a new bearing with bearing lock but decided it was too much hassle when I had already ordered new pulleys. That's the ones I got, one is the ribbed and one is the smooth. The numbers on the actual pulleys have nothing to do with the product numbers

Pulleys arrived a few days ago so had time to fit these today Getting a little belt screech ever so slightly, Quite alot of tension in the belt so will monitor it and see how it goes as I don't want to over tension it and knacker any bearings. I did use a spare used belt to bed the installation in & have a new one in the garage so will replace it when its off the road for the winter and see if that helps as it does have some signs of cracking & wear. Booked in to get the suspension all lined up on wednesday so thought i'd have a go at freeing off the camber and toe bolts. On second thoughts i'll just order new ones I did give them a wire brush and a soak with easol but i'm 99% sure they will shear when attempting to slacken. Now time to bed the new discs & pads in Also booked in to get the calipers re-sprayed on Tuesday.

These look great. No matter how many times I read about putting their lights in the oven and it working i'd still be bricking it to do it myself Can't wait to see them finished

I'll keep the flip key mod for a winter project Just a cheap ebay key do the trick?

Best bet would be to try and hear as many different ones in person as possible and see what you prefer. You tube is handy but struggles to capture the true sound, it can give you a rough idea though. Last few cars I've just went for a custom exhaust.

Shouldn't cause damage to the drive but you could put the axle stands on metal plates or solid wooden boards to spread the weight if your wanting to be extra cautious. I park mine up on the drive for the winter for about 4months every year and to be honest do very little. Good deep clean and a wax to help seal it. I try to start it every few weeks if I remember and leave it running for 15-20min to let everything come up to temp and boil off any moisture in the oil. Usually give it a shuffle about the drive to stop the brakes locking up aswel. Your battery will die unless you put it on trickle charger most likely, these are cheap enough to pick up. I'd recommend changing the oil & filter before putting it back on the road if its been off a while and giving everything a good check over. There is much better ways to do it and people with OCD have massive lists on what should & shouldn't be done. I'm sure there will be a few on here who would put my routine to shame

Yep that's the official jacking point for the rear I think. Its the bit I've used every time I've had the back end off the ground over the years.

This will look really good when done. Very modern looking