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Forgot to upload a couple photos with both Braums fitted:

I had a day off at today's fantastic sunshine and (partly) installed the recently delivered Torqen Xtreme BBK. The passenger side is done and it looks UNBELIEVABLE  But judge for yourself...

Hello, last couple weeks I have decluttered my dashboard gauges and swapped my triple gauge cluster for 52 mm all-LCD-style Prosport EVO gauges (there are green/white and red/blue versions) with the r

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On 23/07/2021 at 09:42, Silverthorn said:

Awesome choice with the wing, it's one of my favourites! :in_love:

I reckon it'll be the only one in Europe and probably only a handful in US/Japan.😬

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Just catching up this 

Best thing I ever did was get those extra silencers fitted the cars so much more enjoyable!! Good move 


Love the wing aswell mate looks stunning 

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Posted (edited)
On 22/07/2021 at 15:52, V1H said:

3) Upgrading my PCV system with a vacuum pump to improve performance and reduce blow-by of my current 'vent-to-atmosphere' style. It'll operate like this:


But the main driver for this upgrade is my hope in combating the Borg Warner Turbos' significant oil leak into the intake charge pipes. I believe the oil drain stalls or is insufficient with my current VTA-style crankcase pressure.

After lengthy research on PCV evacuation I decided I want an electric vane-style pump (which are almost always brake booster pumps unless you pay real racecar money) I need to make sure the pump is not running constantly. Therefore I sourced via Summit Racing the CVR 12V Electric Vacuum Pump [#VP655] and CVR Vacuum Reservoir [#VPR700], along with a bunch of AN-10 fittings, check valves and vacuum hoses. But I will get into more detail when I am there.


I installed said PCV vacuum pump upgrade and all is working as intended. I will have to cover 100 to 300 miles to see whether this helped reduce my Turbo oil consumption/leak. With very limited space availability on my Z I mounted the pump and reservoir behind the front bumper, next to the FMIC, and the 2 directional check valves by the bottom of the radiator fans. The hose plumbing uses over half a dozen AN-10 fittings (read, "very expensive" for what they are). My custom PVC setup cost me now a whopping £1188 in total.. ouch 🙄





After ~250 miles of driving to JapFest Silverstone and to work, I checked my turbo oil traps and both, passenger and driver side, are virtually empty! I would normally have accumulated about 20 ml and 80 ml in the passenger and driver side trap, respectively. This strongly suggests to me that my formerly VTA-PCV setup (vent-to-atmosphere) caused my excessive turbo oil leakage and with crank case vacuum now available at idle and load conditions, this issue seems fixed ☺️


Edited by V1H
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Posted (edited)

From a long time I've been wanting to get a car fire extinguisher, you never know, Youtube is full of burnt-down builds. So I bought from Amazon a Firexo 500ml Extinguisher (good for all fires A, B, C, D, E, F, that is, incl. LiFePO4 battery!) and a Kap Industries fire extinguisher bracket through Tegiwa Imports. I like the extinguisher is NOT SIMPLY RED and my mounting location in front of the passenger seat hides it almost entirely yet is in direct reach in an emergency.



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Posted (edited)
On 22/07/2021 at 15:52, V1H said:

1) Final Infotainment upgrade with a DAB+ Radio adapter, since the 370Z FM radio reception sucks balls 😅

This will be the Pure Highway 400 V2 EU/UK [#151603]


I now installed the DAB+ and found 67 stations right away. There is the occasional drop out when driving around town but radio reception is better than the factory FM radio.


I'm not yet decided on the mounting location of the wireless Display unit (battery operated). An alternative might be the door panel:


The DAB+ antenna is attached inside the windscreen, virtually invisible with my sun stripe hiding the receiver unit. The power cable is routed to the nearest cigarette lighter socket and uses the included 5V adapter. A magnetic grounding cable slides in between the roof liner to bare roof metal. A third cable is for optional audio Line-In to the factory radio.


The Highway 400 can be piggy backed by either hook-up to an unused FM frequency or via said Aux-in/Line-In. I opted for the latter (quality is said to be better). That is, feeding the audio signal via the Z's USB/iPod port in the centre console. In below image, the black audio jack is routed to here straight from the Antenna/Receiver on the windscreen. (The white audio jack is the Line-In cable from my Android Infotainment Unit, but it becomes obsolete now with the Highway 400. The short Audio jack-to-USB adapter came with my Android Infotainment Unit, which might otherwise have to be purchased, e.g. this but cheaper)


I can also play any music from my smart phone via the Highway 400, when in BT  Mode, and I used the Pure Go App initially to notify me about an Antenna Firmware update. I needed to use a Windows Laptop to upload this update, though.

Edited by V1H
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On 22/07/2021 at 15:52, V1H said:

2) 'inspired' by my 5yr old son who loves to drive in my Z but dislikes the noise when I accelereate, I am going to slightly tone down the noise with a pair of 3" straight-though silencers courtesy of Vibrant Performance Ultra Quiet S/S Resonator [#1142], which I got for a steal at Amazon US.



Here we go, the silencers are in and I just fired her up in my garage.

Instant reaction: I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THEM !! 🥰

I havent measured dB before or after but my exhaust feels approx 30-40% quieter. It's still a loud cold-start but not obnoxiously loud anymore (and neighbours should thank me). Neo will also be pleased I hope when he sits in it next time.


Fitment is excellent in the driveshaft tunnel, when done right. I removed my Motordyne midpipes, cut them up myself and positioned the silencers exactly before I took them to a TIG welder. Else there might have been clearance issues.


Original 3" midpipes



Midpipes with Vibrant Ultra Quiet Silencers (before TIG welding). This mod adds 3.37 kg weight.



Fitted back onto the car. Clearance all round.

Edited by V1H
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New battery monitor

Got rid of my BM2 BLE Battery Monitor (Bluetooth), which only reads voltage and is clearly made for Lead Acid battery monitoring. Replaced it with a Victron Energy SmartShunt 500A (Bluetooth) [#SHU050150050] with optional temperature sensor [#ASS000100000] to better monitor my LiFePO4 battery.


The smart phone app now informs me about not just voltage but also current draw (in and out) and power consumption. But most importantly, counting those amps in real-time allows the app to account for actual Amp hours drawn from the battery, and thus, true State-of-Charge (SoC) reading. Deducing SoC from mere voltage reading is very inaccurate with Li-based batteries since they have very flat discharge curves across most of the SoC range.


I did however set up the App not with the batterie's nominal 30Ah capacity, but 13.6 Ah from a true measurement I made earlier. I have a suspicion high under-bonnet temps kills my LiFePO4, which is why I added a temp sensor. I will monitor the temps next time I drive. I read somewhere that LiFePO4 shouldn't see above 45°C, ideally max 30°C. 🤔

Or is it the 70+ Amps the stock alternator charges it with that it can't handle long term?  



Here a screenshot of the app. My Z draws 70mA (precision multimeter) in garage rest and the SmartShunt very accurately reads 0.07A, too. This is quite a feat given the shunt is built to pass 500 A at just 50 mV voltage drop (0.1 mOhm). It also displays the remaining time until my battery is empty. I set alarms to recharge before then 😉



Here the actual capacity measurement of my (second) just half year-old PowerLite PS-30.


Edited by V1H
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A massive thanks to @Adrian@TORQEN for sourcing me my new ultra rare Esprit GT Wing 262F from Japan! ❤️

The wing and stands are full carbon (3.2 kg) and drag angle is 3-way adjustable.

Frankly it looks baller 🤪

I still have to deal with the issue of patching up the stock mounting holes and respraying the hatch, some time later.







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