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About V1H

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    Z Dedicated


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    South Yorkshire

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  1. For pics please look at my build thread. Mine is used in an AAM TT setup, though. I consider this mod rather cosmetic, I would not really expect any noticeable gains until one runs crazy air flow/boost. Install on Page 4: and then some more on pages 5 ff.
  2. Forgot to upload a couple photos with both Braums fitted:
  3. This is an install guide for my BRAUM seats, but will apply to other aftermarket seats, too. You will loose the factory seats motorized seat control and the seat heater function You will save 4 kg weight per seat As you know, I ordered: - pair of BRAUM Racing Elite-X seats, Red Komodo Edtion [#BRR1X-RDRT] that include dual lock sliders - pair of Planted Technology seat brackets [#SB096DR and #SB096PA] I also needed to get extra hardware (per seat): - four M8 bolts and nuts for the Planted seat bracket - one 7/16" UNF nuts for the factory seat belt buckle mounts - one 2R2 resistor to terminate the SRS harness (2.0–2.2 Ω is fine, wattage is uncritical). Passenger seat extras, only: - one 15R resistor (11–20 Ω is fine, wattage is irrelevant) - Nissan Fog Light switch, or any toggle switch of your choice Driver seat 1) The factory seat removal procedure is found in the workshop manual page SE-71. Basically: Remove headrest Slide seat forth/back to unbolt 2 floor bolts behind/in front of seat (M14 socket) Disconnect battery and wait 3 mins Lift seat and unplug OEM wire harness, i.e. 3 plugs: SRS (yellow), seatbelt sensor (small white), motor/heater (big white) Carefully take out the seat 2) You may now test fit the seat bracket, which should line up with the 4 factory bolt holes. Note, the Americans labelled our driver side seat bracket with 'Passenger'. But don't install it! The seat bracket needs to be bolted onto the Braum seats, after you first installed the sliders. 3) Turn over the Braum seat and bolt on a pair of sliders, then clamp in between a handle. The handle must face forward and release the lock mechanism by pulling up (when seated), not down! The sliders have no easy orientation, so look closely at my photo: 4) Use the four extra purchased M8 bolts (facing up) and nuts (facing the floor) to bolt the seat bracket onto the sliders as per photo: 5) Undo the seat belt buckle from the factory seat and bolt onto the seat bracket, reusing the factory 7/16" UNF bolt together with the extra purchased 7/16" UNF nut: 6) Route the seatbelt sensor harness under the seat, which I secured with the yellow factory clips. As for the yellow SRS plug, you could splice into the factory harness before the yellow female plug (photo from step A) and terminate it with a resistor. Or, like I opted to do, cut off the yellow male plug of the OEM seat and reuse it and terminate after that: The termination is done to satisfy the ECU that will look for the presence of a 'working airbag', which is presumably a heater element (the SRS charge igniter) with an electronic characteristic identical to a 2.1 Ω DC resistor in series with a small inductance of 2.6 µH. I appears, from what ppl did before, the ECU is successfully fooled by a simple 2R0 or 2R2 resistor. I ended up ordering a 2R ±1% 3W resistor and a 2.7 µH ±20% inductor - probably overkill. (Would only matter if the ECU test signal was AC rather than DC where impedance deviates from resistance as frequency goes up. Bloody scientist in me ) 7) Place Braum seat into car, reconnect 2 of the 3 harness plugs, bolt down the seat bracket onto the floor. Then reconnect battery if you're done here. If you get an SRS DTC (Airbag dash light) you can reset it with this procedure. Passenger seat The passenger side seat installation is identical, except you have to also deal with the factory passenger occupancy sensor. I’ve seen people transferring over the occupancy sensor by slicing up the factory and aftermarket seats, but with mixed success rates. The occupancy sensor is a bendy pressure sensor that changes resistance as weight sits on it. But that actuation is sensitive to the placement of the sensor and the cushion type/thickness above it (after all, it’s clearly tailored to the factory seat characteristics). I therefore decided to not carry over the occupancy sensor but use a fixed resistor and toggle switch to emulate the sensor actuation for empty/child and adult occupant. The factory seat's passenger occupancy sensor, it turns out, is less sophisticated than I anticipated. As shown in the photo, the sensor simply splices into the wire from the seat belt buckle: I measured the actuation of the passenger occupancy sensor. It acts less as a continuously variable resistor and more as a simple switch, which discriminates between two possible states, only: I) IF seat is empty or occupied by a light weight person (child) THEN resistance = high (150 MΩ – 1 GΩ) II) IF seat occupied by adult weight THEN resistance = low (~20 Ω – 11 Ω) The transition between I) and II) is abrupt. As I slowly loaded the seat with body weight, resistance just jumped at one point from 150 MΩ to a couple 100 Ω and then quickly approaching 20-odd Ω. The passenger occupancy sensor can be approximated by a binary resistance state, HIGH or LOW. I suspect the sensor acts as Pull-up/Pull-down resistor in a simple logic gate circuit to provide the ECU with a Hi/Lo voltage signal. While the sensor states might well be approximated by infinity (open circuit) and zero (short circuit), I decided to emulate the unoccupied state with o.c. and the occupied state with 15 Ω, via an ON-OFF toggle switch. I made a drawing to show the simplicity of all the affairs, no magic or complexity here. In fact, one could even completely ignore the lost Passenger Occupancy sensor, leaving its connector disconnected. The car would merely never nag you to fasten the seat belt when the passenger seat is occupied. Note, passenger SRS is unaffected, and always active in the 370Z. After all, the system cannot distinguish between an empty/child seat with the seat belt unbuckled (R = high) and an adult occupant with the seat belt buckled up (R = high): So, I carried over the seat belt buckle with its wire harness to the Braum seat. As before, I salvaged the yellow SRS connector from the factory seat and terminated with a 2.2 Ω resistor (actually I used a 2.0 Ω resistor in series with a 2.7 µH inductor, but don't bother). Finally I salvaged the white passenger occupancy sensor connector (cut off the sensor's plastic wires) and soldered on a white 2-wire lead, shown here: When I installed the seat with bracket I ran the white lead under the carpet into the center console, since I wan to use a Nissan Fog Light Switch (Ebay) by the cup holder as my toggle switch for an OEM look. The switch is still in transit. Once there, I'll have to solder on the 2 wires with the 15 Ω on one of them. I'll also attach a little custom sticker to cover the fog light symbol.
  4. Yes. Although the outer ones are straight 3” whereas the welded-on tubes for the inner ones are bent (h-shape) and a little narrower (i think 2”) You might see it in the attachment.
  5. Replaced my exhaust tips for Quad tips. Due to the red diffusor I can, however, only fit h-style (not Y-style) and 3" inlet with max 4" outlets, and a total length of 20-25 cm. Since I didn't want to start welding but something ready I ended up after a lengthy search with Akrapovič-style quads from AliExpress. I was hesitant using the Chinese Ebay place but the quality is decent (if not perfect). BEFORE - AFTER
  6. I'd also recommend the OEM W brace, sold through TORQEN. You definbitely don't want to have the cardboard weak aftermarket W brace sold at TARMAC SPORTZ (just trying to be honest here). Yes, I fitted 4 underbraces, they are all additions and no replacement for the W brace.
  7. BRAUM seats have also just arrived and waiting for me to install them!
  8. Went for a P1 service to H-Dev yesterday. Driver side turbo is leaking some oil through the compressor outlet into the intake pipe, around 10ml/100miles. Yet to be decided if further investigations, i.e. engine out job, is required. Nice photo from the under-body: Then, the mechanic pulls her back onto the forecourt. Undramatically, though, as he's a gentleman By the way, my brother standing in above clip (been visiting me for a couple days) was utterly shocked by the savage forward thrust when I accelerate hard from standstill with my tires properly warmed up and good tarmac able to hook from 1st gear w/o slip despite over 400 ft lb of torque. Yes, those 305mm MPS4S are insane! He was much looking forward to experiencing my Z and he had never experienced anything this violent by a long mile (he used to own a mapped AWD Audi S3). He also said my Z is unbelievably beautiful and truly special that he never realised just from the pictures and videos he had seen. I think it finally dawned him why I'm so obsessed about and constantly dumping ££k into my Z while he's just into mobile phone gaming
  9. Yesterday I replaced my Mishimoto Weighted Shift Knob (363 g) with a Raceseng Contour Shift Knob (500 g). Big thanks to @Adrian@TORQEN for supplying it from USA! While I liked the looks of the Mishimoto I didn't quite warm up to the feel of the shifting action with the stick-like shape, or maybe I grew less fond of it over time. So, I got the even heavier satin finished stainless steel knob with the optional Gate 3 Engraving and I much prefer the shift action feel it gives over the Mishimoto. The Raceseng also looks good with the OEM satin silver interior trims. Because the Raceseng knob is much stouter and even heavier the gears clunk into place with a precise metallic feel and even shorter travel. I totally love the new shifter feel!
  10. It was a custom fabrication by Horsham Developments. Was done while I had my TwinTurbo installed. I've heard Torqen is planning on making such harness covers.
  11. Here some first pics of the installed Xtreme BBK. I can't emphasise enough how happy I am with the look and quality
  12. I had a day off at today's fantastic sunshine and (partly) installed the recently delivered Torqen Xtreme BBK. The passenger side is done and it looks UNBELIEVABLE But judge for yourself... Disks Comparison: Calipers Comparison: Comparison w/o wheels: Comparison with wheels: Close-ups:
  13. It’s a long way for me but would love to attend, too! Please book sunny weather for the 8th 1) Payco - 2016 Nismo 370z - PA04YCO 2) Coldel - 2005 VX220 Turbo - VK05 XEU 3) Andy_Muxlow 2011 - 370Z - A20MUX 4) Seb - 2003 350z JDM - PR02 SEB 5) kbad - 2007 HR - J44SUS 6) Mopedmark- 2009 370Z Ultimate MT59UZR 7) Darren-B - 1971 240z - BVM 362K 8) Flashback - 2004 350Z - HJ54TBZ 9) NickC - 2003 350z - A3KXN 10) Shelly Masters OE07MYC 11} zippypooz - 2005 350Z - N44SSN 12) Lewis Schwier - 2004 350z - V6 LXD 13) AndyNap - 2005 350Z Roadster - A11 NAP 14) Rich & Hilary T - 2007 350Z - AF57RZA 15) Daveo132 - 2007 350Z - PE07DPZ 16) Pagan 2003 350z roadster K500 SYM 17) Vicktor_the_ Predictor - 2005 350Z - OE54 ASX 18) Paul K - 2005 350Z roadster - K50 PTK 19) AmyZed 2003 350z roadster - FA51AMY 20) ChrisF - 2005 350z - MT55WKK 21 ) Jenso - 2004 350z GT - J15NSO 22) nismoandy - 2006 350z -WP06FNX 23) V1H - 2013 370Z-TT GT Edt. N99 NEO
  14. Acquired a mirror-polished S/S cover for the radiator expansion tank from @RDON who has a limited stock of custom fabrication. Very happy with the quality and finish of the piece (all precision laser-cut). Many thanks buddy!
  15. Been a special weekend as I got my TORQEN Big Brake Kit - Xtreme [#TRQ-BBK370] delivered, Friday afternoon:



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