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About V1H

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    South Yorkshire

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  1. Would've loved to attend this meet but am already commited to TORQEN HQ meet on that day
  2. I'm now a happy owner of TORQEN's brand new and exclusive XB LED headlights [TRQ-HDL-Z34-RHD] ! While there are aftermarket headlight options for the 350Z, I am thanking @Adrian@TORQEN for bringing the very first aftermarket 370Z headlights to the UK Especially, this set features state of the art 'Triple Kuria-optic Bi-LED projectors', sequential turn signals and DRLs. The light output is mind-blowing! It's definitely brighter than my Philips D2S HID Bulb (or the stock HID bulbs for that matter). (Promo video here)
  3. PREMIUM CONNECT INFOTAINMENT Upgrade - STAGE 3 I am attempting to upgrade my stock touchscreen, Because it is a resistive one, its touch sensitivity is low (dragging gestures on the new Android system is difficult) and the screen brilliance and contrast is substantially reduced, I am converting resistive to capacitive touch screen (typical for phones and iPads). Note, any touch screen is merely a transparent coordinate tracking screen on top of the actual colour display. I stumbled across this IndiWork 7" capacitive touch screen (sourced through car-solutions) with matching dimensions to the 370Z OEM screen. I will also need their capacitive-to-resistive touch screen converter [#CT6-4 V1.1] (also sourced through car-solutions) so that the 370Z infotainment system keeps thinking it's a resistive type. Display brilliance and touch sensitivity should be much improved. I uninstalled my display, opened it up and very carefully lifted off the topmost glass panel (the actual touch screen). I needed a carpenter knife to break the double-sided sticky tape seal in between. Simple prying would shatter the glass. You can see just how light-robbing the resistive touchscreens are; cpacitive ones are perfectly clear. Also, the resistive screen has a blurring effect to it when you look through it - awful! All I need to do is take off the flexible 4-wire FPC cable and connect its screen end to the converter's 4-pin output, making sure the 4 wires for Left, Bottom, Right, Top won't get mixed up. [meanwhile, parts have arrived] I wanted a compact solution without external cables running off the Display unit, so I fitted the res-to-cap-converter board to the aluminium case like so (there is not enough space inside of it): The converter's power supply (ACC & GND) I directly sourced from the display unit. The Big grey 24-pin connector 'M75' has ACC at pin#23 (red cable in next photo). GND is at pin#12, but since all aluminium case is grounded too I bolted the ground cable directly to the case (back cable in next photo). As mentioned, I cut off the FPC (flexible printed circuit) cable of the original resistive touchscreen, exposed the gold contacts with a sharp knife and soldered 4 (arbitrarily coloured) wires onto it but kept track of their order: my BLU-ORN encodes for Left signal my YEL-YEL encodes for Bottom signal my WHT-WHT encodes for Right signal my GRN-GRN encodes for Top signal Those 4 wires then run to the controller (right middle connector in above photo) for signal conversion. I had to do a bit trial-and-error testing in the car so see which pins on the controller are for the L/B/R/T signals (see above photo, inset). The new capacitive touchscreen also comes with an FCP cable, which runs via a 6-pin connector on a tiny PCB to the controller's left hand side plug. Then, carefully closing up the unit, job done. In comparison to the OEM touchscreen, the new one looks so crisp and vibrant as if one swapped an LCD for an OLED! And the touch sensitivity is amazing! The gentlest of touches instead of hard taps is now required to operate the screen. Dragging and scrolling menus is a breeze now. I love it!
  4. Hi @m4nn13 I’d be interested, too, if that 30% discount still applies. I might be 2 yrs late though Best wishes
  5. PREMIUM CONNECT INFOTAINMENT Upgrade - STAGE 2 I have now upgraded my stock infotainment system with an Android unit. I purchased it through @StormtrooperZon the forum. Left: OEM versus Right: Android (with AGAMA app) What's in the box: The Lsailt Android Multimedia Video Interface [#LLT-YF-VER5.9.5] runs Android 7.1.1 (pre-installed with a number of typical apps) on an with2 GB RAM and 32 GB ROM. It integrates with the OEM infotainment system (incl BOSE® sound) and uses the stock Touchscreen. The unit supports Mirrorlink/carplay/dongles/phones, microSD, USB, GPS, Bluetooth, WiFi etc. You can switch between the OEM and Android infotainment system any time by pressing the BACK button for 2 sec. The Android system includes the multimedia unit and a bunch of cables of which I currently only used the following four: 1) Screen splicing LVDS cable 2) GPS antenna unit 3) main power harness (splices into the stock radio unit's 20-pin and 32-pin cables; and has a 3.5 mm stereo jack connector for SOUND OUT and is important later, among stuff I didn't use e.g. Sound In, rear Camera 12V O/P, mini-speaker) 4) 3.5 mm jack-to-USB converter The remaining mini-speaker, USB cables, DTV/V OUT and AV/CAM IN harnesses I didn't currently use. Installation: This was a bit of a learning curve but @StormtrooperZ was very kindly supporting me with hints and tips First, removed the dashboard trims and remove the touch screen and pull forward the radio/CD head-unit. That's all easily done with a handful of screws. Place the Android box on top of the head-unit (Velcro pad included) as it's slim enough to just about fit snug into that tight space. Connect the main power harness (3), which will remain stuffed behind the head-unit when reinstalled, and route the 3.5 mm jack cable down and out, past the gear lever toward the armrest. The screen cable (1) routes upward and plugs into the stock (grey 4-pin) screen cable (the bigger white stock screen cable stays untouched). Connect the GPS antenna cable (2) and stow the GPS unit away. I shoved it higher up behind the screen and beneath the triple gauge cluster. Reinstall the radio head-unit with the Android box on top, the touchscreen and the dashboard trims. In order for the Android system to play sound though the car's stock speakers (BOSE system) you basically route the Android's SOUND OUT cable to the USB-AUX I/P ( IPOD) inside your armrest. That's what the 3.5 mm jack-to-USB adaptor (1) is needed for. It's not as tidy as the other harnesses. So I ran the 3.5 mm audio cable beneath the gear lever trim into the armrest compartment from beneath through a hole big enough such that the USB adaptor plug would fit through: (I added a short white extension lead that I had lying around) View from underneath: Operation: When the car is switched on it is important to change the radio's input mode to iPod with the DISC-AUX button. Then, as mentioned, you toggle between OEM and Android infotainment system by pressing the BACK button for 2 sec. The default home screen of the looks like this: After connecting to my home WiFi (car sat in my garage; else you could created a WiFi hotspot on your phone and connect this way) I downloaded the 'AGAMA Car Launcher' by Altercars from the Google Play App Store and set this to my default home screen and unlocked the full version ($1.99). The new look is what's shown at the top of this post The AGAMA web page also has user instructions on how to associate the (initially empty) App shortcuts on the home screen with your favourite Android apps. I'm still learning Android, my first ever Android device, but I recognised a few common apps like Google Maps for the Navi, TuneIn for the Radio, etc. The customisable five presets of the AGAMA home screen are Radio, Navi, Music, Phone and Internet, each having their subfolder with up to 5 configurable apps. You can now browse the internet and YouTube, watch videos in the car and whatever you want to do. Later I want to install the TORQUE OBDII app and look like a GTR dashboard
  6. Looks like you blew a fuse #71. See this post: Hope this helps PS: Afaik, my 370Z has no tail light sidelight LEDs
  7. Can u specify which bulb of the driver side tail light isn't working anymore? Is it the turn signal or reverse light? I'd expect each tail light to have their own fuse, so that when one side fails the car can still drive with the other side working rather than all being pitch black. there might be more fuse to be checked. There are fuse boxes by the gas pedal, too. Pretty sure it's merely a matter of finding that blown fuse and all should go back to normal
  8. Hi @davidv10, looking at your two adapters I notice their contact wires aren't bend in an identical fashion; might one of them simply not give electrical contact when plugged into one of your T10/168 sockets (front parking light, or rear license light? Swap over the adapters on a working light and see if the other suddenly doesn't work anymore. Can't think of any other good reason, given that the fuse is fine.
  9. PREMIUM CONNECT INFOTAINMENT Upgrade - STAGE 1 OEM navigation maps update By clicking Info on the Infotainment system and entering the menu Navigation Version, one can read out one's ... errr ... Navigation Version. My MY2013 showed from factory: which I updated today to: by installing a set of five DVDs of the Connect Premium (X9.0) EUROPE V7, which I ordered from the Nissan Navigation Store [#T1000-27465]. They'll also provide you with an activation code that's unique to your VIN and Unit ID (displayed when you click Info, then menu entry Map Update). The install took about 4 hours. The new maps are by HERE Maps and are supposed to add about 1.5M km of road, 275k one-way-streets and 449k turn restrictions.
  10. As I had to cover two small holes from my previous two gauges on top of the meter cluster I bought the Motorsport Auto Carbon crown meter cover [#50-1915] from the Z-Store. It's a simple slip-on carbon cover with very good fitment. Naturally, I love the looks but hope I won't get too addicted to carbon stuff - it costs too much There appear to be two options out there, some covering the central Rev Dial with carbon too, like the EVO-R cover, but I wanted it uncovered since I skinned my Rev Dial in red. This is the only reason I went with the Z-Store and had to deal with import duties.
  11. Hi @StormtrooperZ i’d be interested in a unit too. Cheers
  12. Thanks Nick, no worries!
  13. Hello, last couple weeks I have decluttered my dashboard gauges and swapped my triple gauge cluster for 52 mm all-LCD-style Prosport EVO gauges (there are green/white and red/blue versions) with the red ones blending into the Z interior theme very nicely. My plan was to swap the gauges as follows: I sourced my EVO gauges from R-Spec Performance Products (UK). The Vac/Boost gauge is the mmHG/PSI version (#216EVOBO-PSI) and comes with a 2.5 bar MAP sensor, which I hooked up to my intake plenum. The Oil Temp gauge is the Celsius version (#EVOOT-C) and comes with a 1/8-NPT temp sensor that screwed right into one of the spare threads on my AAM oil pan spacer. I took liberty and checked its R(T) response and it's different to the stock oil temp sensor. The AFR gauge I bought is the narrowband version (#216EVOAFR), which I chose purely for cost (£56 versus £193 for the wideband version) but adapted it to function as wideband gauge. I reused my existing AEM UEGO controller with its BOSCH LSU 4.9 sensor (very precise). It has an analogue 5V output, which I feed to the EVO AFR gauge after some electronic conditioning: a simple electronic circuit converts the 0-5 V (WB range) into 1-0 V (NB range) in a linear fashion. Because the signal conditioning is quite specific to my case I'll skip technical details. It cost me some extra hacking and customising but saved me some pounds... I managed to extract the single-piece PCB of the stock triple gauge cluster through their three little dash trim openings. To my amazement they were still working afterwards (only the plastic enclosure had to be destroyed). But I had no use for them anyway. I only reused the 'top hat' covers for an OEM look. The EVO gauges fitted very well after minimal trimming: With the new EVO gauges in, the old AEM AFR and vac/boost gauges sitting on top of the meter crown cover became obsolete. The clock is shown on the sat/nat screen anyway, and the battery voltage I can display on my GReddy TOUCH OBD2 gauge on the right hand side. So, no information is lost, just de-cluttered. (I ditched the GPS speedo above the Rev dial a while ago) Close-up of the new EVO gauges EDIT: Since the central dash trim was off I touched up the start button with some Dupli-Color Metal Specks Retro Red (#MS300). I've been toying to buy the red NISMO start button trim for a long while but won't do it now anymore (sorry @Adrian@TORQEN)
  14. Hi all, here some pictures of my Torqen Big Brake Kit - XTREME (fitted on 20") 2-piece rotors, 405 mm (F) and 380 mm (R) Calipers: 8-pot (F) and 6-pot (R), red anodised #AN2 Torqen sport brake pads S/S braided brake lines Approximate size comparisons: Installation under way: Before - After comparison: Close-ups: And wheels in motion:
  15. Installed some orange 'mood lights'... These are electroluminescent (EL) LED lights (incl. 12V DC inverter, which actually runs them at a couple hundred Volt AC, but milliamps) [Ebay]. They were very easy to install. I got inspired by this youtube install video. For the driver side door cart I simply spliced into the light blue (12V IGN) and black (Gnd) cables of the window controls harness. For my center console mood light, I spliced into the green (12V IGN) and black (Gnd) cables of the seat heater harness (under the cup holder unit). This way, the mood lights light up when ignition is ON. PS: The passenger door I haven't done yet; there is no 12V IGN available and it'll require feeding some power from the cabin to the door.





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