ilogikal1

Because; a) it cost a f**king fortune, and 2) because Glacier Wax rebranded to Frost Car Care. It is a great shampoo though, it's just... unreasonably priced. It used to be even more unreasonably priced befor rebranding, I recall it being £70/litre and only available in the fancy glass bottle, although they seem to have addressed the expensive glass bottle only option now.

True story.

Bin the leather conditioner mate, it's doing more harm than good on your seats.

Readily available and adequate, but their products are neither the cheapest not the most effective in my experience. They're aimed at the mass market car washing rather than the detailing niche though, so they tend to produce products that get shine easily rather properly - I.e. Fillers and silicones everywhere.

Anything designed for use on the interior won't last on the exterior and anything designed for use on the exterior will be too shiny for the interior. Interior; Madcow Mango Sauce is pretty much the best interior dressing I've used, and it even does light cleaning duties too. That said Hubikote HubiDash comes a very close second. Exterior; Auto Finesse Revive is pretty good. Hubikote HubiTrim is better. With exterior plastics, it's pretty vital to make sure they are clean before applying any dressing - a suitably diluted All Purpose Cleaner and a multitude of cloths is needed for that!

This. And that;

I'd always recommend a DA both for the novice and for the soft Nissan paint - more so for the latter than the former. A DA with suitable technique, compounds and pads is more that sufficient for soft paint whereas a rotary is just overkill. That said there's no real harm in going for a rotary provided you know how to use and know the risks. If you're opting for the rotary then you really, really should go for a paint depth gauge too - I've never heard of anyone burning through with a DA but there's already been one on here with a rotary, so make your choice.... I appreciate its out of budget now but I'll always suggest this; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-soft-paint-polishing-kit-cat1.html for the Z. Buy some Poorboys Black Hole Glaze for now and that'll see you through until you have the extra pennies to spend on that kit. Regarding the overspray - first tackle it with a clay bar, start out with a medium grade and work up to something more aggressive if needed, which should remove it, then polish to tidy up.

To summarise; just another reason not to use the Admiral Group...

I was wondering this on my commute today actually. Theoretically only you and the police know you attended the course, so if it were to come to light during an insurers investigation would that mean that you could sue the police force for sharing this information with a third party that has no right to that information? If there were even the slightest possibility of that, the police would guard that information to protect themselves, as such; how would anyone know? Unless you admitted it somewhere, say a public forum or to a bunch of mates in the pub, for example....

Just a word of caution if you have attended one, you might want to check your documents as it is 100% mentioned specifically in the contract you have with them, thus could invalidate you insurance... ...provided they ever found out. Same goes for the OP, obviously.

Roses are red, Violets are blue, I don't wanna put, my willy in you? Roses are red, Here's something new, Violets are violet, Not f**king blue!

But not a forged stronger option for reasonable money. Oh yeah, there's few better options

There's always a lighter option.

And just when I was beginning to think you often actually talked sense too...

No easy way, aside from doing the hard work once and then keeping on top of it. A strong APC (available from any supermarket of ever) mix or Citrus Pre-Wash (not so readily available) should shift a fair bit of dirt but burnt on stuff needs abbrassive contact to get off usually.

This sort of thing is actually an iron remover, so it'll do very little to the crap on the exhaust. What you need for the exhaust is metal polish, wire wool, a s**tload of elbow grease and, if you want to do the inside as well as the outside of the tips, the patience of a saint.

Yes. Anything that's not highly acidic or highly alkali won't damage your wheels. Wonder Wheels is highly acidic, hence the damage. Get yourself some Car Chem Revolt - yes, it's an online product unless you're near them, but it's cheap and effective. Failing the Bilt Hamber is readily accessible from a number of places - either of their wheel products, they're both as good as each other. Or, clean them properly once, seal them properly, and for the rest of the year clean with shampoo and water.

BMW PCD is different to the Z's too isn't it?

I'd like to assume they would if the grade of fuel wasn't available at all in the country the car is being sold. Whether that's the case or not I have no idea, but I'd be more inclined to believe that was the case than the premise that absolutely no one in Ireland pushes their car regularly enough to cause damage on the lower grade fuel that is available. That's not to say I'm not wrong of course.

I'm actually intrigued; why do those who do, find it so hard to believe the possibility of the ECU holding a different base map? As I understand it, it's really not that difficult to flash an ECU with a generic map that even dealers could that at the point of sale. It's largely how you get "updates" from dealer (non mechanical) recalls, no?

Read this thread through for a start. Highlights from others, for a Z; For an (almost) all-in-one off the shelf kit That said; For other cars (read; paint hardness) other compounds may be more suitable.

If only someone had covered this topic a billionty times every week since the car was first launched.... Sigh.

Standard Rain X product then....

Also received mine today, top job all round Stu

You say that like it's a bad thing....