ilogikal1

Yes, you'll ideally need to treat any rust first - surface rust can just be cleaned up with a wire brush though - otherwise it'll only ever get worse.

But it's on the internet, so it must be true. Even the bits that contradict each other...

He answered your question. Both times. You seemed to miss his answer first time, so I drew attention to that. Then answered your question. After you asked the same one. Again.

Nope, it's two separate disappointing levels of hotage.

Is Ebized's answer not good enough for you then? Yes, the seat should heat up.

The more I see this thread, the more I'm tempted to make a Tesla related comment. I think I've done well to last this long, to be honest.

Fujinon 26x optical zoom lens. I use a Fujifilm X-S1 which has a fixed, manual zoom lens. I rarely use the AF though, as it's not great for macro stuff - like yours it'll often hunt forever before giving up. I tend to use the manual focus as much as possible for these shots... or lean forward a bit and press the focus button again.

Good man! On all counts.

Need more beads, Stu.

What this thread needs is more beads... That'll do. For now.

Anything over concrete would be an improvement, but I understand you're best off sealing the concrete first regardless. Although I have to admit I only "know" what I've been told. You're right, they look (much) better than the name suggests. Not good news about the bubbles though.

Nice reflections shots Stu. That last shot really shows off the shine too Also, when looking for a garage (with or without a house) look for one with (or budget for) a sealed floor. Your car will be just as dusty left in a one with unsealed concrete as it would be left outside during a sandstorm. Trust me, V.O.E! Remind me though, what colour did you get your wheels done?

Moar! I will drip ( ) feed even more through later.

That's not even close to entrapment. Just saying.

As it's part of the Admiral group, make sure you read the small print about the cover on those mods.

these days our company turns over millions each year... I once saw a blue car. True story.

No. But you only have to hit the button once and it'll go back to whatever it showed before.

I stand corrected. In my defence, my knowledge of painting comes almost solely from people who used to do it back in the 70's & 80's. I should have assumed modern paints would be much more user friendly!

My two pence; It all depends on how you're painting it really though. If you're baking to finish, you'll need to allow less time to gas out. If you're not, you'll need to leave it longer. Some paint can take up to a month to fully gas out - although I have to admit my knowledge of painting doesn't stretch as far as being able to tell you how what paint needs what gassing time I'm afraid. I would be a little weary about using a panel wipe or IPA on fresh paint, tbh, but after a week it should be fine. If the surface isn't suitably cured and the IPA isn't suitably diluted, it can smear the top coat. A bit of common sense will go a long way to prevent that though. To be quite honest though, I would assume that if the paint is cured enough to polish then IPA shouldn't be an issue either. However I would be sorely tempted to allow a reasonable amount of time (depending on how you're painting...) before polishing, refining and protecting the new paint anyway - I'd be looking to allow at least week before doing anything to it. What I can tell is that less than a week absolutely will be too soon to apply a full on coating. The paint needs to be fully gassed out and cured before you apply a solvent heavy coating that will then harden to an airtight layer trapping in the solvents from painting. Sealants of waxes, I would suggest less than a week would be too soon unless you're baking - if you're baking you'll be fine with either within a week of finishing. As for what to use; For 3-4 months protection, almost any decent synthetic sealant or wax will see you through. If you don't want to break the bank, Poorboys Natty's is very good for the money, but FK1000P is better. Wheels, assuming you're not painting them too (otherwise the above applies), then the cost vs. effort brings it squarely down to FK1000P vs. Gyeon Rim/GTechniq C5 (or C4, or C1....)/ A. N. Other coating of choice. If you're buying FK for the paintwork, slap it on* the wheels too - it should see 3 months on the wheels and 4 or more on the paint. *Figuratively, not literally. FK doesn't play well when over applied. In terms of application, coatings are trickier but some long as you're methodical and careful they're not too taxing to apply. Prep is not just important, it's absolutely essential - make sure the paint is spotlessly clean and free from all oils, etc. (IPA wipe down as Ricey mentioned) and dry before applying - each coating is slightly different so if you go down this route, let us know what you're thinking of and we'll advise accordingly between us all. FK is easy and fool proof, all you need to remember is to keep the layers thinner than a particularly thin thing during the National Thin Things competition in Thinsville, Thinshire - apply a panel at a time or to the whole car (it's very forgiving) then buff off, allow a minimum of an hour, better still 24 hours, apply a 2nd coat to ensure coverage. Job, jobbed. Do not get any on black plastic or rubber trims, otherwise it'll stain, or on glass because that's just silly. For the wheels - if they're being painted too, treat as above, otherwise... Wash, decontaminate with fallout remover (and de-tar if necessary), re-wash and then as above. IPA wipe down beforehand will only extend the durability, but it's not as important as it is with a coating. Or, to put it another way, I agree with what Ricey did gone done say only he did gone done say it much more concisely. What I haven't mentioned yet is that I also agree with Stu (even if he doesn't rate me... ), personally I'd paint it, let it cure fully and properly (depending on how it's being painted) before even polishing and refining the paint and then I'd be looking at sticking a coating on it straight away. Whether you DIY it or take it to a pro is up to you of course, but as a novice, I'd recommend the pro over DIY as coatings can be tricky to apply properly/well and even trickier to correct if it goes a bit wrong.

Can't remember the specs of the old one but I replaced my original battery less than a month ago with one that was the same size, give or take a mm; Capacity 77 Ah CCA 760 A Length 278 mm Width 175 mm Height inc. terms 190 mm

FTFY.

Autobrite Direct, isn't it? It's just a fallout remover rather than a wheel cleaner and it's not one of the better ones IMO. It certainly isn't good enough to be just an apply & rinse type product. Also AD are very much NOT a reputable company so don't buy anything direct from them. Personally I'd recommend sealing the wheels properly and using nothing more than soapy water to clean them.

Someone removed the "P" when describing the driver.

That's not rat look. That's intentionally been made to look like a rusty mess (even more than when it left the factory ), which is very different from neglecting the bodywork in preference of the mechanicals and it happening naturally, which is rat look. As Ekona said, that's just a f*cking mess.

Okay, so I've managed to narrow the beading pictures down to 153. No, really. Luckily for you lot, the forum won't let me post them all at once. Expect more.