ilogikal1

He answered your question. Both times. You seemed to miss his answer first time, so I drew attention to that. Then answered your question. After you asked the same one. Again.

Nope, it's two separate disappointing levels of hotage.

Is Ebized's answer not good enough for you then? Yes, the seat should heat up.

The more I see this thread, the more I'm tempted to make a Tesla related comment. I think I've done well to last this long, to be honest.

Fujinon 26x optical zoom lens. I use a Fujifilm X-S1 which has a fixed, manual zoom lens. I rarely use the AF though, as it's not great for macro stuff - like yours it'll often hunt forever before giving up. I tend to use the manual focus as much as possible for these shots... or lean forward a bit and press the focus button again.

Good man! On all counts.

Need more beads, Stu.

What this thread needs is more beads... That'll do. For now.

Anything over concrete would be an improvement, but I understand you're best off sealing the concrete first regardless. Although I have to admit I only "know" what I've been told. You're right, they look (much) better than the name suggests. Not good news about the bubbles though.

Nice reflections shots Stu. That last shot really shows off the shine too Also, when looking for a garage (with or without a house) look for one with (or budget for) a sealed floor. Your car will be just as dusty left in a one with unsealed concrete as it would be left outside during a sandstorm. Trust me, V.O.E! Remind me though, what colour did you get your wheels done?

Moar! I will drip ( ) feed even more through later.

That's not even close to entrapment. Just saying.

As it's part of the Admiral group, make sure you read the small print about the cover on those mods.

these days our company turns over millions each year... I once saw a blue car. True story.

No. But you only have to hit the button once and it'll go back to whatever it showed before.

I stand corrected. In my defence, my knowledge of painting comes almost solely from people who used to do it back in the 70's & 80's. I should have assumed modern paints would be much more user friendly!

My two pence; It all depends on how you're painting it really though. If you're baking to finish, you'll need to allow less time to gas out. If you're not, you'll need to leave it longer. Some paint can take up to a month to fully gas out - although I have to admit my knowledge of painting doesn't stretch as far as being able to tell you how what paint needs what gassing time I'm afraid. I would be a little weary about using a panel wipe or IPA on fresh paint, tbh, but after a week it should be fine. If the surface isn't suitably cured and the IPA isn't suitably diluted, it can smear the top coat. A bit of common sense will go a long way to prevent that though. To be quite honest though, I would assume that if the paint is cured enough to polish then IPA shouldn't be an issue either. However I would be sorely tempted to allow a reasonable amount of time (depending on how you're painting...) before polishing, refining and protecting the new paint anyway - I'd be looking to allow at least week before doing anything to it. What I can tell is that less than a week absolutely will be too soon to apply a full on coating. The paint needs to be fully gassed out and cured before you apply a solvent heavy coating that will then harden to an airtight layer trapping in the solvents from painting. Sealants of waxes, I would suggest less than a week would be too soon unless you're baking - if you're baking you'll be fine with either within a week of finishing. As for what to use; For 3-4 months protection, almost any decent synthetic sealant or wax will see you through. If you don't want to break the bank, Poorboys Natty's is very good for the money, but FK1000P is better. Wheels, assuming you're not painting them too (otherwise the above applies), then the cost vs. effort brings it squarely down to FK1000P vs. Gyeon Rim/GTechniq C5 (or C4, or C1....)/ A. N. Other coating of choice. If you're buying FK for the paintwork, slap it on* the wheels too - it should see 3 months on the wheels and 4 or more on the paint. *Figuratively, not literally. FK doesn't play well when over applied. In terms of application, coatings are trickier but some long as you're methodical and careful they're not too taxing to apply. Prep is not just important, it's absolutely essential - make sure the paint is spotlessly clean and free from all oils, etc. (IPA wipe down as Ricey mentioned) and dry before applying - each coating is slightly different so if you go down this route, let us know what you're thinking of and we'll advise accordingly between us all. FK is easy and fool proof, all you need to remember is to keep the layers thinner than a particularly thin thing during the National Thin Things competition in Thinsville, Thinshire - apply a panel at a time or to the whole car (it's very forgiving) then buff off, allow a minimum of an hour, better still 24 hours, apply a 2nd coat to ensure coverage. Job, jobbed. Do not get any on black plastic or rubber trims, otherwise it'll stain, or on glass because that's just silly. For the wheels - if they're being painted too, treat as above, otherwise... Wash, decontaminate with fallout remover (and de-tar if necessary), re-wash and then as above. IPA wipe down beforehand will only extend the durability, but it's not as important as it is with a coating. Or, to put it another way, I agree with what Ricey did gone done say only he did gone done say it much more concisely. What I haven't mentioned yet is that I also agree with Stu (even if he doesn't rate me... ), personally I'd paint it, let it cure fully and properly (depending on how it's being painted) before even polishing and refining the paint and then I'd be looking at sticking a coating on it straight away. Whether you DIY it or take it to a pro is up to you of course, but as a novice, I'd recommend the pro over DIY as coatings can be tricky to apply properly/well and even trickier to correct if it goes a bit wrong.

Can't remember the specs of the old one but I replaced my original battery less than a month ago with one that was the same size, give or take a mm; Capacity 77 Ah CCA 760 A Length 278 mm Width 175 mm Height inc. terms 190 mm

FTFY.

Autobrite Direct, isn't it? It's just a fallout remover rather than a wheel cleaner and it's not one of the better ones IMO. It certainly isn't good enough to be just an apply & rinse type product. Also AD are very much NOT a reputable company so don't buy anything direct from them. Personally I'd recommend sealing the wheels properly and using nothing more than soapy water to clean them.

Someone removed the "P" when describing the driver.

That's not rat look. That's intentionally been made to look like a rusty mess (even more than when it left the factory ), which is very different from neglecting the bodywork in preference of the mechanicals and it happening naturally, which is rat look. As Ekona said, that's just a f*cking mess.

Okay, so I've managed to narrow the beading pictures down to 153. No, really. Luckily for you lot, the forum won't let me post them all at once. Expect more.

Right then, this was my winter prep. "detail" (which was actually more like 'a bit of a clean' than a detail this time really) so in terms of LSP I was looking for something easy to use that'll last until the sun is seen again some time in June... yes, I'm being optimistic. Having little-to-no opportunity to even wash the car whilst I'm down south for the foreseeable future I wanted something that I could apply and forget about, no maintainance and ideally something that offered some self cleaning abilities and most-but-not-really importantly offers some good beading. Because I do like beading. Ultimately I chose; This should give me ~6 months protection without any maintenance. It's the v3 CanCoat - for anyone who is not aware, the first and second versions suffered from the nozzle getting blocked before the can was finished, Gyeon reacted to these reports for v1 quickly and replaced all purchased cans free of charge only to discover that, whilst fewer, a not insignificant number of complaints that v2 did the same thing. Gyeon went away and created v3 (and again replaced all previously sold cans for free) which was claimed to have solved this issue without the need for taking any precautionary measures to prevent it (initially the response was to remove and wash the nozzle out after use, before any product dried in there, until they could fix it properly with v2. Which didn't really work -v2 that is, not cleaning the nozzle). The idea of CanCoat is simple, it's an SiO2 coating in aerosol form. Directions for usage are; prep the paint. Once properly prepared, spray CanCoat onto a microfibre cloth & wipe over the panel, or alternatively spray directly on to the panel and then wipe over for full coverage. Then, within 2 minutes (before it begins to harden), buff all streaks out of the treated panel with a dry cloth. Once the car is completely treated, allow a minimum of 1 hour before layering (if desired) and repeat the application process. Allow 24 hours for the coating to fully harden before getting wet and 7 days before using any detergents (washing it basically). An optional, sacrificial layer of Gyeon Cure can be used to help prevent water-spotting whilst CanCoat cures fully. So I set about preparing the paintwork, however both slight time constraints and major laziness meant that I had no intention of going all out - hence the lack of detailing in my detail... - with the following process; Citrus pre-wash. Wash. Left for a bit to dry, in which time it got dark and I got drunk socialised with friends. The following day I; De-tarred. Decontaminated. Twice (see the last fallout remover test post). Snow foamed. Moved into the garage. Scratches were then polished out of the rear bumper only. Paint & glass (minus the windscreen) was deep-cleaned by hand; That pad had been washed out during the paint cleansing too. Twice. That pad will never be the same again. The poor thing. Meanwhile the paintwork was given a Gyeon Prep wipe down before applying CanCoat. So a few things to note. Firstly I didn't clay on this occasion because I had no intention of polishing at all until I discovered the damage to the bumper and I didn't want to even risk inflicting any marring before sealing it with a hard wearing coating. Secondly, I had genuinely forgotten just how much I like Rejuvinate. Yes, it contains fillers as well as abrasives and chemical cleaners (hence using Prep before CanCoat) but just look at how much grime it's pulled out of the paint! Thirdly, CanCoat review. I'll start by saying that this should not be used out doors. Aside from the usual reasons why detailing (beyond the wash) outside isn't ideal, this is an aerosol; the slightest breeze is going to ruin your day one way or another. Indoor use only where you can control the environment much better is my first recommendation. My second recommendation is this; what you're dealing with here is a glass coating complete with all the required solvents that allow application, in aerosol form. That means atomised particles of SiO2. You will want to use some form of respirator for this one, if not for the solvents then for the glass coating you'll otherwise be settling in your lungs. It won't (necessary - caveat that I can't guarantee that it wont) kill you, but that can't be healthy. With that in mind, I went full on Walter White... all right, not quite full on as I didn't don a yellow romper suit, but I do have a shaved head, questionable facial hair and gloves & full on respirator were donned for this job; My third recommendation is forget the idea of spraying directly onto the panel, unless you're masking off every inch of everything you don't want to coat. Yes, it's quicker on larger panels but it's a bit of ballache trying to direct the aerosol where you want it to go and only where you want it go so you'll either be constantly wiping and buffing every surface every time you spray any CanCoat or you'll end up with a crap finish. Think of it akin to spray painting - over spray is b*tch!! V.O.E. So you've decided to apply by spraying onto the cloth first; spray it in a direction that is away from the car. Prime your cloth with extra product every time you use a fresh one - you don't need a lot for an area, but you'll want more on a dry cloth than one that you've done a few panels on. Buy more cloths. You'll need them. You know those eleventy billion cloths you've got? They're not enough. I ended up using 8. Per layer. I did three layers. That's a lot of cloths. Also, forget the idea of using one cloth to apply, refold & buff. It'll become useless for buffing long before it becomes useless to for applying so save yourself a dozen more cloths and do it separately. You should be looking at using 1 or 2 to apply and 6 to buff per layer on a Z. Furthermore, make sure both cloths are suitably folded and within reach before spraying any coating, you're aiming to finish buffing the area you're coating within ~90 seconds (IMO) of spraying the first cloth. With that in mind, work in small areas - I'd recommend no more than 1/3 of a bonnet at a time, ideally even working in 6ths. The boot lid can be done in 2 or 3 sections. The doors, rear wings, bumpers and roof should be done in 2 sections each. The front wings & A pillar trim can each be done in one. Now you remember up there I explained that v3 is designed to require no special treatment to prevent the nozzle from blocking? Well, I dispute that. Mine blocked up completely by the time I got to the fourth panel on the third and final layer - roughly just 4-41/2 hours after I started to use it. The solution is, supposedly, quite straight forward, however it should be noted that I haven't attempted this is yet (but I'll come back to that). I contacted Polished Bliss when I'd finished who, in their usual excellent service, got back to me extremely promptly with; That video basically just says turn the can upside down and press the nozzle (hard - it is quite a tough ol' aerosol to use anyway by the way) against the floor/surface until it clears. As said I've not tried this yet myself because in my determination to get the third coat done I pressed on before even contacting PB. I attempted to use another nozzle (from a can of WD40 in case you were wondering) but that didn't seem to want to go on and I had no other aerosols that I could remove the nozzle from. I attempted to clear the original nozzle with a pin but that didn't work... probably because I couldn't find a suitably sized pin to get right in there, but hey ho. I then resorted to basically catching the coating that leaked out around the nozzle (rather than through it) with the cloth. Which worked well enough, but it caused a lot of wastage, so I wouldn't recommend that frankly. Anyway, I now have considerably less left that I should have but I did get three coats on, as such the can has just been stored, blocked nozzle and all. I will see if I can get it working again when I choose to use it for something else, until then it can remain blocked. All that said (it doesn't seem to be so easy to use now having written all of that...), providing you use a bit of common sense with how and where you spray it along with being aware that the nozzle can/will still get blocked (which is no different to painting using rattle cans really - turn the can over and clear the nozzle after use and you should be fine), CanCoat is actually quite easy to use for a coating. Providing you remember all those things. I did apply a fair amount by spraying directly onto the panel, this led to the rear window in particular suffering from over spray which has taken a glass polish (an actual, proper polish, not that Auto Glym s**te that they sell as "glass polish" by the way) to almost remove about half of that over spray. From a surface that it's not designed to bond to. It would take machine polishing to remove it from paintwork, especially once it's fully cured after 24 hours. That would ruin the finish on the paintwork if you missed any at all - - this isn't a self-levelling product, so you end up with specks of coating, like a colourless dust everywhere - and it would really ruin your day if you got any on the windscreen at all! Seriously, don't spray it directly on the surface (unless the panel you're treating is stripped off the car ). So with a c**p weather providing terrible lighting it looks a bit like this when done; The lighting doesn't do it any favours, the gloss isn't as far off Gyeon Prime (which is still on the side skirts here) or Dodo Juice Infinity (on the non-polished rear bumper... which is mostly not in this picture!) as it appears - for those of you who can remember and/or be bothered to go back to the pictures of those - but it's not quite as good as those two "proper" coatings either. That may be due to over spray that I've missed though. I have also noticed at least one smear that I missed which is now fully cured until the coating fails. Which might prove to be a fair indication of when the coating has fallen off (if the car is clean enough to see it!) though, so silver clouds... or something like that. I have covered just about everything in CanCoat, some intentional, some not so much - paint, badges, headlights, door handles, wing mirror trim, door window seals, over spray on the rear window. The good news is that it doesn't mark rubber or plastic trim at all. The bad news is that it's not necessarily designed for anything other than paintwork so it'll be interesting to see how long it lasts on various surfaces. Had I not had the issue with the nozzle, I think I would have used little over half the can for three layers. I suspect with more practice I could get the usage down to (just) under half a can, but certainly not enough to get three cars out of a single can. That places costs at about £13.50 per car (plus two dozen cloths!), which for a coating is certainly reasonable. If 3 coats last 6 months, £27 for a year's protection isn't too pricey at all really, but that remains to be seen. I'm really not sure if I would buy CanCoat again though. It is easy to use, especially for a coating, but it's not as easy as it's made out to be. As you can see from my experience above there can be a lot to remember - although it has to be said most of that is common sense... hence I needed someone to tell me first . I'd quite like to have more of a play with it before writing it off entirely but at the same time I can't help but feel that all things considered a full on, all out coating is worth the small amount of extra effort for the greater results. Or, to conclude, it's a good product (and despite how negative this post feels to me as I'm writing it, it is a good product) but I may have just found the first Gyeon product that would overlook in future...

Waxoyl is very old technology these days and hasn't changed much since it's inception. There are better products in terms of application, protection, durability, finish, etc, etc. It dries out relatively quickly at which point it flakes off in sheets, it's not airtight in any way, it's a basically just lathering on a black gunk until it falls off which actually becomes a water trap and is counter productive. The Bilt Hamber Dynax range or Dinitrol is just better in every single way. Bilt Hamber is ideal for home use as it's just so easy to apply providing you can get under the car adequately.