ilogikal1

Move. Your postcode often has a bigger effect than most people realise.

Yes, that's all well and good using actual real world experience and all, but have you got a YouTube video to prove any of it?!

@ZMANALEX can probably help with this - it's not an uncommon issue.

Using the Americans as a measure of quality is a low bar.

They're standard (looking) seats that have been retrimmed, along with the door cards, centre cubby and gear stick gaitor, to match the replaced roof. Gear knob's been changed and the standard Rays have been painted too.

Hve you tried @ZMANALEX?

You can clean as normal, same products, methods, etc. You're not going to do any damage agitating or washing as you normally would. It's just polishing that you need to adjust - and most people don't polish wheels anyway - even then it's just a case of not using abbrassive compounds. You can still "polish" with non-abbrassive paint cleansers, for example. You should avoid anything with fillers too, but nothing's got enough fillers in to make a satin finish truly glossy. If it were me - wash and decontaminate (i.e. fallout & tar removers as needed) as usual. You can use specailist matte shampoo (which may slightly prolong the coating's lifespan) and/or quick detailer if you want to. I'm not a huge fan of quick detailers in general and a normal shampoo won't really adversely affect anything so it depends on whether you want separate products just for the wheels or not. Coat: Nanolex SI3D Matte comes a set with panel wipe and is a case of applying the product and just keep spreading it. Or, IPA wipedown (or Gyeon Prep, or Nanolex Ex can be bought separately) and then Gyeon Q2 Matte Evo, which is the more traditioanl wipe on, buff off job but comes with Cure which can be used as a quick detailer after application of Matte. For maintenance, regular washing every couple of weeks should be sufficient to keep on top of things. Occasionally through some iron remover and tar remover at it when needed and then top up the coating once a year or so. As mentioned above, your choice of shampoo will make such little difference (so long as it's pH neutral - most good ones are) that Gyeon don't make a matte specific shampoo - they would recommend standard Bathe (not Bathe Plus) which is a good shampoo if you need something, but use up what you've got first.

Avoid polishing with abbrasives, otherwise nothing special required. Waxes / C5 won't affect the finish noticeably, at least not unless it's side-by-side with an unprotected section (which I'd advise against for more reasons than just looks) and even then it's not going to suddenly turn the finish glossy. If you are particularly worried about retaining the satin finish, I'd recommend either Gyeon Q2 Matte or Nanolex Si3D Matte - either would work well on wheels and are designed for a matte or satin finish.

Ugly though.

There was precious little of it, but when the racing did happen it was pretty good. Kimi and Oscar (after he fell off) with some especially good overtakes in places they shouldn't be able to.

And this is despite Elon doing everything he can to put people off.

All much of a muchness on comparible specs. Price (and/or looks if you want a particular colour) is pretty much the only differentiator. IMO there's no real reason to pay a premium for one over any other if the specs (i.e. size and material) are identical.

A quick Google shows there are no end of options near me. In fact, even the RAC now offer EV servicing, along with a plethora of other places it seems, as a mobile option so they would even come to me. I appreciate you won't be able to take it to just any garage, but choices don't seem to be particularly limited. Costs do seem to vary a bit though so seems worthwhile to shop around. Dealer's can't (legally) withhold software updates, and it makes absolutely no sense for manufacturers to allow it either.

Or just don't take it to a dealer.... Dealer charges dealer prices. Shocker.

Impossible to tell. IF you're lucky you might guess right, if you're not you might not. Even then it's reliant on you selling at the right time which may or may not be when you're ready to sell. They are two very different cars to drive. Have a go in both and see what works best for you. That's depend very much on the individual cars. Do your research on both - don't just assume generalisations will apply to either (common issues are common, not guaranteed) but do consider the risk if you're not able to confirm.