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About ilogikal1

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  1. ilogikal1

    Are my window tints legal?

    But, again, stick windows with no tint are close to the limit already. These are absolutely over the limit and illegal. OP, the dealer misinformed you, simple as that.
  2. ilogikal1


    Polished by hand or machine? Did you washed yourself when it came back? What shampoo were you using, as it could be that? Sounds like there's an oily film on the surface, so I'd suggest claying an affected area and washing again to see if that sorts it. A deep cleanse would probably help (clay, tar & glue and then a good paint cleaner or another bash with the 3m you've got to finish it off) depending on how much time/effort you're willing to spend on it.
  3. ilogikal1


    Got any pictures? Tar and glue remover or fallout remover should kill off any waxes. Clay (cloth or bar) and/or polish will certainly get rid of anything lingering on the surface though. [awaits the inevitable Fairy Liquid non-sense]
  4. ilogikal1

    Are my window tints legal?

    Stock windows are pretty near the limit anyway, so yes they are most certainly illegal. Also if you got a policeman to test them, they'd make you remove them there and then.
  5. ilogikal1

    Non Fault Claim

    Insurance underwriter; "Hmmm, there's a direct correlation between the number of claims from people who crash into their garages and the number of people keeping their cars in a garages... yep, that's a high risk right there, load the premium!! "...oh and the car is stored in a separate building out of view of anyone? Thieves can take their time to break into the car then. Yep, load it up again!! "...hang on a second, if the car is in the garage, the thieves know which house the keys are in. Yep, high risk, we'll stick that loading on top too!!" All genuine excuses reasons insurance companies have given for garages increasing premiums.
  6. ilogikal1

    I’m loving this car!!

    Can we have a pedant section for all of Dan's posts, please....
  7. ilogikal1

    FK1000P vs Gyeon WetCoat

    No, should be okay to go straight over FK. The only benefit is to ensure coverage really, if you're sure you got it everywhere first time I wouldn't bother with multiple coats personally.
  8. ilogikal1

    FK1000P vs Gyeon WetCoat

    Wetcoat works best when it's sprayed on (from the bottle as it's at the optimum dilution then) and then washed off with the pressure washer - it's the impact form the rinsing that activates it, by the way. I've found there to be no discernable difference if it's sprayed onto a wet or dry car though. I wouldn't go the extent of drying a panel before applying Wetcoat, nor would I go to the trouble of rinsing it first either.
  9. ilogikal1

    FK1000P vs Gyeon WetCoat

    If you’ve got FK and you’re happy to apply that, go for that. It’ll last the month without too much trouble. That said, WetCoat is so quick and easy to apply, gives a lovely glossy finish and will last a good few weeks on its own. It’ll also bond over the FK so personally I’d do both and guarantee seeing the month out easily.
  10. ilogikal1

    300BHP upgrade

    ...but it’s okay, because on here we get regularly reminded that no one’s ever interested in VED costs when buying a car like this. Ever!
  11. ilogikal1

    Cleaning Advice

    Almost this. Get someone decent to do a full and proper job on it, stump up for a ceramic coating. Wash it yourself for 2-5 years. Repeat as desired. The latest top-of-the-range Gyeon coatings should last towards 60 months and, when applied by certified detailers, come with an up-to-5 year warranty (some... 'questionable' terms & conditions apply, naturally). I wouldn't polish more than once a year anyway (let alone paying for someone else to do that) and if you're not into your detailing there's little point in claying regularly either, not least of all because that'll just mean having to polish more often. Unless you have a lot of money to throw away, there's also a lot of better options than to get someone to slap on some wax once a month too.
  12. ilogikal1

    Cleaning Advice

    Pressure washer is fine, not essential but than not (when used properly as Stu says). Jet wash at your local petrol station, with the brush attached, is not!
  13. ilogikal1

    World Cup

    I know, those pesky Englanders go around making out like they invented the game or something....
  14. ilogikal1

    Cleaning Advice

    Wash: 2 buckets - go anywhere but detailing shops for these. Even Halfords will do on this occasion. Microfibre washmitt/pad (depending on preference). Gyeon Bathe+. If you live in an area with hard water and waterspotting is enough to bother you then then cheapest option is a drying towel (Polished Bliss per the below), otherwise a water filter (Daqua)if less effort is more important than budget. Glass cleaner - GTechniq G6 or Car Chem Glass Cleaner from @G1en@waxandshine Wheels - Get your valeter to protect them properly and just use shampoo and water to clean. Cloths - just get this http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-towel-bundle-cat1.html which covers everything you'll need on the car and more between professional valets. Inside of the exhaust is a losing battle if you actually drive the car more than polish it, so I wouldn't bother personally, but if you must then get the Britemax Metal twins. Clean and protect in one go (well, two goes). Make your life easier and get a polishing ball to use on a drill (and any cheap drill if you don't have one all already). If there's a bit of built up already you might find you need a metal polish with more cut and/or fine (0000 grade) wire wool to tidy it up first, then it's just a case of keeping on top of it. That should be all you need in terms of products really, although you may want to look into a pre-wash (like this) for a safer wash. Anything else is going to be overkill if you're paying someone to do it properly for you as well. Beyond that it's all technique for a safe wash. As already mentioned, don't wash in direct sunlight or on hot panels. The more dirt you can remove without touching the car the better. When you are doing a contact wash, keep the mitt/pad clean - rinse it out in a separate bucket regularly, keep your wash and rinse buckets separate - and when drying pat rather than drag the cloth over the surface. Bathe+ isn't a particularly sudsy shampoo but it's incredibly well lubricated with is actually important (unlike the amount of bubbles produced!) so don't be put off and stick to the dilution rates it suggests. Number one thing to remember; everything is easier to clean if it's properly protected at all times!
  15. ilogikal1

    Motorcycle change discussion

    That’ll teach me to try to be funny before coffee!