ilogikal1

But there are many, many better products available than Waxoyl these days.

Just to warn you, beading pictures are about to happen... a lot. Those of you who like beading shots, you are in for a real treat. Those of you who don't, you are in the wrong thread.

Just to add, I know these are 19" so 15ml might be a bit of a stretch - it's probably doable but there won't be much room for error - but you won't need anywhere near 100ml still.

No, if you take the time and care to do it well you can coat all four 18" wheels with the 15ml - it's a very thin coat that's needed. It is expensive compared to FK, you get a massive tin of 1000P that'll last a lifetime (and it has a shark on the tin! ) but you'll be applying it at least 4 times a year whereas C5 (I'll play along with GTechniq's numbering system for now, but C1, C4 & C5 are actually the same product) is applied once and it'll happily last the year, most likely much more than that too, so there's more value for money there than it first seems. If you buy the 30ml bottle, that will be more than enough to do all four wheels, all the exterior plastic trim on a Z and any metalwork too. It's very much an effort vs. cost equation - C5 is apply & forget, 1000P is apply and top-up regularly. If you want to barrels protected as well as the face of the wheels, FK becomes a bit of a chore. Gyeon Rim is considerably more economical than C5, you get 30ml for an extra 50p or so, which is easily enough for four wheels with plenty left over to apply a second coat (more to ensure coverage than anything) and probably the exhaust tips too.

TBBK is the only one who's even got close to an empty tank yet.

I thought I'd taught you better than that... I have absolutely no idea about the CC I'm afraid, I can only suggest checking that everything is connected properly at the wheel controls. Hopefully someone even remotely competent will come along and actually help you.

Just a shame there's nothing on the BBC worth twelvety pence, let alone the rest of it.

Get a coating on them - GTechniq C1/4/5 or Gyeon Rim would be my choice. FK is great, you'll get a few months protection out of it but a coating will last a year+. As for cleaner, just normal car shampoo. Before applying the coating, use a fallout remover (Car Chem Revolt is my current preference, as per my thread in the detailing section) and clay them (clay bar would be better than a cloth on wheels, for the fiddlier areas) and then an IPA wipe down followed by the coating.

I trust you polished and sealed all of those new shiny bits whilst they were waiting to go on... New wheel look very good, I do like that. In what way is broked? Won't switch on at all or won't engage after switching on? (I'm going to assume you're using it correctly... ).

Granville AND Stu? I'm surprised I'm not banned already! Well done gents.

Neither. Or rather both. They'll suggest a bit of obtuse legislation and then spend months/years bickering amongst themselves about it, generating arguments for, arguments against and then trying to persuade the general public why they are right and the others are wrong at the taxpayers expense. Only to then spend more months figuring out a precise definition of a workplace... which will be wrong and then further expense will be spent on repeating the whole process on each of those 8706 loopholes one at a time. Meanwhile, no one will give a toss what the law says and they'll do whatever they want anyway. Typical politics really.

Sadly not. And now I'm going to be (even more) disappointed every time I see that Leon.

Mother! Fer! The only two silver linings to this cloud; 1) it's on the rear bumper. Which needs respraying anyway. 2) I'm not bad with DA... ...Fixed it. One small, deep scratch and a one less noticeable scratch that isn't too deep still remains, but it's difficult to see unless you're looking for them now at least.

Costs more to import than a family of... yeah I probably shouldn't finish that sentence. I'll stick with Revolt for now.

I forgotted to add in the previous post that Ferrous Dueller comes with an adjustable trigger spray head, so you can determine the spray pattern (to a degree) by turning the nozzle at the front of the spray head. It's a minor point but yeah, just mentioning it. Right then, I am acutely aware that a number of people are eagerly anticipating finding out whether Korrosol can match, or better, the long-term market leader in Iron X and, as you can see from the picture above, I now have plenty of both so with much further ado (possibly about nothing) I will not answer that question... yet. Instead I have another question that I want to answer. CarPro currently offer no fewer than 4 (FOUR!!) fallout removers in their range; Iron X, Iron X Paste, Iron X LS and Iron X Snow Soap. I don't care about Paste. At all. So I didn't buy any of that. Iron X Snow Soap has interested slightly, but only slightly so I've only acquired a sample of that. And I've not used it. Yet. So that leaves Iron X and Iron X LS. CarPro says; So let's find out if that's true then. (The question previously referenced was 'is LS actually as good as "Classic"?' btw). So first up, Iron X "Classic" - "cherry" scented in marketing only. It reeks. The scent is similar-but-stronger in Iron X than in other products like Auto Finesse Iron Out but make no mistake, it masks nothing! I previously suggested that another product is like a rotting corpse with Battenberg in it's pockets, well Iron X is more akin to a rotting corpse in a Battenberg factory. It's unpleasant, you don't want to sniff it, spill it in enclosed (or even well ventilated!) areas and you sure as hell don't want to get any on you or your clothes. It does come in a clear bottle. It's a slightly cloudy, clear thin-gel-like liquid. The trigger spray head that comes with it is simple on/off affair with no adjustment. Iron X LS then - Lemon scented indeed. Unlike it's predecessor, LS lacks that rotting flesh stench, it's much more similar to AM Iron. It's a very chemically, peroxide-like scent masked with lemon scent. It's much more pleasant to use, you could sniff this (although not advised!) without melting your sense of smell for 3 weeks and if you get this on your clothes you're not going to be arrested whilst the police search under your floorboards for the body that produced that smell. Same bottle, same liquid, same spray head as "Classic" (I'm going to stop with that now, it just reminds me of when Coca-Cola had to very publicly admit that they got it so very, very wrong). The wheels were prepared in the same way as the last pair, surprisingly - i.e. WaxAddict shampoo wash with Wheel Woolies, & then foamed. This left me with this; and this Yes, I need to get my wheels refurbished. Still. Move on already. Anyway, Iron X did this in ~5 minutes to one wheel; Iron X LS did this in ~5 minutes to a different wheel; Rinsing occurred. With a hose. Still to lazy to get the pressure washer out. A bit of drying followed. Then I got impatient and then... Iron X LS did this to the previously Iron X'd wheel after ~5 minutes; Meanwhile Iron X did this to the previously LS'd wheel after ~5 minutes; So... er... hmmm... I... yeah. More rinsing occurred. Then I returned to the wheel that started with LS followed by Iron X, and did this; The reaction was initially both almost instant and quite strong, but it seems to largely run off leaving just the above after a few minutes. I then went back to the wheel that started with Iron X followed by LS and did this; This seemed to also react almost instantly but didn't ease off like LS did after a few minutes. Both were rinsed. Again. Back to the other wheel then - that's three hits already. Two with LS, one with Iron X - and this occurred; Four hits and still picking up fallout. This was left for as long as I could bear (it started to dry out, ~10 minutes) and then... Hit 5 and it's still turning purple! Meanwhile, on that other wheel. The one what did gone done have Iron X, Iron X LS and Iron X thrown at it; You'll notice two things here. Firstly, I've opted for a loser from a previous round to test three hits of Iron X with. Secondly, those f*****g spots haven't been shifted by Iron X2 and/or Iron X LS! The reaction here was not only emphatic as shown but also virtually instant yet again. And then for comedy value (and, because I expected much better things from Iron X, I have a litre of this stuff), I then threw hit number 5 at wheel number 1; In summary then; Iron X LS is not the same as Iron X. Iron X reacts much more strongly and this does not fade at all. LS reacts strongly at first but this quickly fades. It does not appear to be that LS runs off any quicker as there is always product on the surface of the wheel in the above photos, this seems to be because the colour runs much more freely once it's reacted. Either that ot the reaction is temporary and the colour slowly changes back. Incidentally, LS was used on the paintwork after this. It reacted, it was rinsend and W6 followed it on the paintwork. Which also reacted. That too was rinsed and Nanolex was tested on a small area. Which also reacted. Again. Conclusions; much like the previous one, I'm making a judgement call and that call is that Iron X is "better" than LS and thus LS is elimated. Like the previous one, I have more LS to confirm this, and I will. And like the previous one, I don't expect Iron X to progress much further in this test on today's performance. Iron X and Iron X LS have both massively disappointed me today. Korrosol doesn't have much to live up to at this point.

I'd be interested to see what you can come up with. In my opinion you need to focus on how long it'll last when applied, ease and cost of application and that'll determine the interest in any final product, I think. Stu, I'm planning on trying Gyeon CanCoat on mine this time round. Hopefully by the time that dies off I'll have had my wheels done and cracked the C5 open for next time they need doing.

Update then. The wheels were washed with Waxaddict shampoo and Wheel Woolies then rinsed, followed by being snow foamed & rinsed with the rest of the car the previous day. The car was not moved between that wash and the following fallout remover test. That meant I was starting with this; and this I selected today's contestants from the previously posted picture, opting for Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller and GTechniq W6. GTechniq W6 is relatively new to the market compared to many, but is not the newest... even in my test. It comes in a fairly standard GTechniq bottle - namely a white & red coloured bottle that is completely opaque and thus you cannot actually see how much product remains. Easily remedied by picking the bottle up and feeling the weight though, but worth mentioning for those who care about such things. W6 also smells like a typical fallout remover. There's no pleasant scents or attempt to hide the smell, it's all out rotting corpse here. The trigger spray that comes with the bottle is also typical GTechniq fare - i.e. a simple "on/off" trigger with only one spray pattern. Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller is somewhat less new to the market but is often overlooked as a less established offering. It comes in a clear bottle and is green liquid. For a fallout remover it smells positively delightful. It has a sweet scent that I've not yet placed and it doesn't have that rotting corpse undertone that most others do - you can actually take a whiff of this without it melting your face!* *This comes with the warning that I had smelt a number of other fallout removers not before this one. It's probably not going to double for an air freshener but you're probably not going to be overly bothered if you get over-spray on yourself or your clothes using this one. You certainly wont get arrested whilst the police try to find the body that you're clearly hiding according to that smell on your clothes either though... well, not because of this anyway. Onto the usage then. Ferrous Dueller did this on the first wheel, after a ~5 minute dwell; Whilst W6 did this one another wheel, after ~5 minute dwell; Both wheels were then rinsed thoroughly using the hose (because getting the pressure washer out was a little bit too much like effort today). After about 20 minutes (ish) they were slightly less wet but still far from dry. Ferrous Dueller then took the other wheel. It did this immediately after applying (plus the 10-15 seconds it took to get the camera & pics... excuse the rushed-and-therefore-not-entirely-or-at-all-in-focus photo on the right); Most of the bottom left came from the brake rotor, but there's clearly an additional reaction elsewhere too. W6 was then applied to the first wheel, which looked like this immediately after applying (plus a similar 10-15 seconds for the same reason); Which also picked up additional fallout. Both were given about 5 minutes to dwell. Which looked like this; Ferrous Dueller Which... er... yeah. There's that. W6 looked like this; Which is considerably less of a reaction, most of which was coming from the (iron) weights and some of which could be excused from missing bits with DJ FD... but maybe not. A judgement call from me, on the basis that the 2nd hit of FD generated a much stronger reaction, determines that Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller is going through to the next round. I do have a bit more W6 (I used some on the paintwork too) so I will endeavour to confirm this decision at a later date, however I suspect that neither would make it much further based on this alone. I haven't yet written off W6 entirely, however as stated I did use this on the paintwork which was checked against a previous loser in the form of Nanolex... Nanolex reacted on all sections previously treated by W6 which suggests this was the right decision. It will be further investigated regardless though. Tune in for the next exciting episode. P.S. Curse my laptop for shutting down mid-update but thank you to whoever developed and installed the Auto Save on this forum - you, sir, have saved my wall from having a computer thrown at it!

...Expect updates.

My 2p (and I'd like change, please ) When someone recommends an indy over a dealer (on many owners forums, not just here) for competency reasons, the indy in question is usually a specialist rather than just any old non-affiliated outfit. By their nature they will know that model more than your average dealer who has to cater for a wide range of models currently on sale, let alone the historic models. I do see your point though, Dan, obviously Nissan are training people capable of working on a Z... But they also train many, many more who aren't. Why risk the chance of that one guy in x number of dealers vs. the place where (in Sly's case) all of the employees have that knowledge, exposure and experience of your particular car. With all due respect to our specialists on here, they may not be the first names that gets mentioned if you want your Ferrari F40 serviced, for example. Because I know you have one of them tucked away in your garage. The cost is usually a big reason too.

I just use the free (yes, free!) one that comes with the car... it has the side effect of making it all toasty warm in winter and nice and cool in the summer too.

It depends. If you're paying £50/litre then 140 miles is pretty bloody good. If you're paying 50p/litre, it's pretty bloody bad. Rather than quoting costs, how about using something useful like volume instead.

FK is equally brilliant on wheels as paint. EX-P will work but it won't last as long as FK, even layered.

So all we really learned here is that Easty doesn't want to pay full price for his brake lines and certain people will jump on any chance to stick the boot in, regardless of any facts? Well that's good to know then.

So we're agreed then; nobody likes anybody around here?

Lies!! On both points. To the OP; need? No. Your wheels will work perfectly well without spacers.