ilogikal1

Quite possibly, but FK is quite solventy so layering isn't really beneficial in itself - except to ensure coverage. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't necessarily top FK with anything myself, whether that be Natty's or a second coat of FK, but there's no harm in doing so if the desire took you.

You can top FK with Natty's if you like, so long as FK goes down first it won't cause you any problems. There's not a great deal of point, Natty's will add to the look but it won't be noticeable really. It'll also add to the durability, but we're talking two or three weeks ish. To be fair, that's the same regardless of paste, liquid or spray sealant. In terms of your planned routine; Snowfoam first then wash. Personally I wouldn't really bother with the 2nd wash after claying either, especially if you're polishing. If the cars not clean by then, you're doing something wrong! Also consider a wipe down after polishing - IPA/Eraser/Prep/panel wipe, whichever you fancy really - and before the sealant. The only other steps you'll want to think about adding at this point is de-tar and decontamination (fallout remover) stages before the clay. Also, Junkman sucks.

Cheers Dan, much appreciated.

Well that's a leading question... For now, let's just say that I'm already well aware of their existence and I'm just investigating any potential alternatives.

Other than RT-Performance*, any recommendations for bodywork paint and wheel refurb (peferably at the same time/place... I has plans ) in/near the Woodford/Hainault general area? *awaits a barrage of suggestions for "RT-P"...

Upload it to Photobucket.

MS Paint.

Flour... flours.

Better coverage will depend on your technique - both with and without a machine. Even coverage is potentially more a realistic benefit. Less waste I'm not convinced about myself, you'll always want to prime the pad before touching the paint and the sealant is more likely to dry out more quickly if being worked at the higher speed offered by a machine. Save time, though, absolutely not IMO. It takes more time (and a lot more effort) to apply well by holding a 2kg machine up to a horizontal panel ensuring you apply even pressure over the full surface than it does to do the same with an applicator that weighs considerably less! Not to mention the additional set up time. With a machine, you'll also want larger pads for the flatter panels and smaller spot pads for just about every other panel to get good coverage. There's a fair amount of changing pads to cover a Z which isn't necessary when working by hand. There's no real "you absolutely should not" reason to apply sealants by machine (using an appropriate pad of course!), there's just no real benefit to it and once you've tried it once you'll realise it's just not worth the effort. As for JetSeal, some people swear by it.... I'm not one of those people. It's alright, but it's not great, IMO. Headlights shouldn't be an issue for it (it probably won't last as long as it does on paint though) but I'm not convinced by it's claims of use on glass - whatever you do, do NOT use it on the windscreen regardless! I'm sure you weren't going to, but just to be clear. If you're planning a trip to Americaland any time soon, pick up some awesome AMMO Skin Defense (despite the wanky American spelling, it's a very good product!). However shipping to the UK is bit... eye watering. I'm not a huge fan of other liquid sealants though, so for cost, ease of use and durability reasons I'd always recommend FK 1000P, a paste sealant, or a spray sealant at a push... but you really can't apply those by machine. Oh and Poorboys EX-P > JetSeal. But then a lot > EX-P too.

Absolutely no point in applying an LSP with a machine, sealants don't need be worked like a polish. Stick to applying by hand instead. As for which one; what's your budget and confidence level?

So it has two different coloured leather under those fabric seats and half a dozen exterior colour options too then, right? The very first one? Or the very first US one? That's quite an important distinction, surely? Or maybe just the very first one produced on that Tuesday...

Merry birthday old man.

Can we have buttons for every other possible response too? Just to save us ever having to actually type anything out again.

Bilt Hamber Dynax range pisses all over Waxoyl in every way these days. I'd recommend that personally.

I've already replied to this in PM, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this wondering the same/similar question I'll summarise; White Diamond & Black Hole are essentially identical - both work equally well on light or dark cars, despite the marketing. That said, Black Hole smells awesome, so I'd buy that. Black Light is one of those products that Chemical Guys just can't decide what it is/does, so promise the moon on a stick... and deliver a stick. It's a pretty good stick, but it's missing a moon - or in less analogous (that's a word...) words; it's a decent enough glaze, just don't believe anything else CG (UK or US) tell you about it. My preference would still be Black Hole. That said though, if you're using a Collinite wax, I simply wouldn't bother with a glaze - Colli is solvent heavy so will (partially at least) strip any glaze underneath it. So; for looks - Black Hole/White Diamond topped with an oily wax (Poorboys Natty's is perfect, the Blue one for no reason other than the smell again really, and very cheap). For durability - straight Colli, no glaze at all. Also, Dan - Black Hole is great by hand, but try it by machine just once; it's a whole new level!

I didn't; it's a car and I'm not a 12 year old girl.

This. And this. And pretty much everything I've said on those other threads too.

Not tried it myself but I know a number of people whose opinions I respect on these things (including Laura, who owns the BMW on that link ) are mightily impressed by it. Rich has done well to get WaxAddict into Halfords though, it's quite impressive how much that brand has grown already. It's all about Fireball these days though (or so the cool kids tell me - their products look incredibly familiar if you ask me...).

If you're anywhere near Kintore, or even if you're not frankly, go to the best - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/detailing-services.html. Be prepared to wait though, they're a bit in demand.

Meh, standard. Good going, that. I was expecting to see a "topped up with so and so, daily for the last 3 years" or something but that is bloody good going!

Toothpaste will work, but as that's not exactly what it's designed for there are better things to do this with. The Megs kit mentioned does contain just about everything you'll need in one box - it might be a bit expensive if you've already got some of the components lying around the house already though. As KUGT4 said though, whatever you use to tidy them up, you'll need to re-seal them again afterwards. There's a billionty threads on this topic with a wealth of options and advice.

FTFY.

If you can get them off, that is

Castrol are so proud of this brand new, revolutionary technology that there's absolutely no mention of it on their own website...

Also consider what you deem to be "mod friendly". In my opinion Admiral aren't... Sure, they'll list the mods on your policy if you ask them too, they'll charge you an inflated premium for having them, they'll even tell you that they'll cover them. What they won't tell you directly (although it is in their small print) is that, in the event of a claim, they will only ever pay out a maximum of £500. For all of those mods. Combined.