ilogikal1

I don't watch it. Or virtually anything else on the BBC for that matter. That's WHY I want my license fee back!

1 SuperStu (2x A3) + Desktop (1x) 2 glrnet (1) 3 Ebized (1 x A3) + (1 x Desktop) 4 Lexx x 1 of each 5 Mikeyazure 1 of each. 6 richard.hezlett 1 of each 7 Zmanalex 1 of each. 8 ioneabee Desktop (1x) 9 Keyser A3 x1 10 buster A3 X 1 11 Kev T A3 x1 12 Paul K (both) 13 ogman - one of each please 14 terry06 (1 x A3) 15 Rothers2901 (2 x A3) 16 Lyndzzz (A3) 17 Pritchard 18 Irn Bru 2 x A3 + 1 desktop 19 Eatonm90 A3 x1 20 Vlad A3 x 1 21 Chesterfield 1 of each 22 MBS (2x A3) + 1 Desktop 23 Brummiestormer x2 A3 24 Paddy78 - 1 of each please 25 Andy James A3x1 26 Veeg33 x1 (desktop) 27 SUPRAWOOKIE (1 x A3) + (1 x Desktop) 28 ianphampton ( 1 x A3 ) 29 Davedutch x1 desktop 30 Bobby D X1 A3 31 Chirag1988 A3 x1 32 Clark Motorsport ( 1 of each) 33 Stoker 11 (A3 x 1) 34 vik54 one of each 35 GreenLandy - one of each, probably 36 370ZRDevon (A3) 37 ilogikal1 x1 (desktop) 38 39 40

So let me get this right, the idea is that someone is locked in the boot of a Z? That'll be the boot that opens into the cockpit freely and obviously... where there are doors... on the other side of the boot release that's under the strut bar? Just so I'm clear on how utterly ridiculous this particular storyline is; out of all the cars in the history of the world, ever, they choose one where it is physically impossible to get locked in the boot of.... That's it, I want my license fee back!

OP; Pre-facelift bumper; Facelift bumper; Quite similar, but if yours is the same as the blue one then the lip will fit, if it's not then it wont.

For silver I'd be aiming mainly for gloss, aside from getting some flake pop if it's metallic silver there's little else you can do with it really. For the blue, I'd be aiming for depth and that dripping wet look. Both will be acheived by polishing the surface to perfection in the same way, it's the steps after that, that will add to the finish - happy to expand on that if you'd like me to, but I'll stick to answering the questions you've already asked for now. Paint cleaner, I'd recommend either Car Chem Paint Cleaner or Auto Finesse Rejuvinate - it's worth noting though that the latter contains both fillers and abbrassives; the abbrassives don't offer much cut at all so it's pretty safe to use on all paint but the filler can and will interfere with certains LSP's, not a problem if you're using wax, more of a problem if you're using sealants and a massive problem if you're using a coating. Nothing an IPA wipedown won't resolve but it's best used when going straight to wax or when doing the "full works" as opposed to anything in between. Car Chem Paint Cleaner leaves nothing behind. Both are good by hand but better by machine. You'll be amazed at how much filth either one will pull out of seemingly clean paint, and just how quickly either can ruin a perfectly good clean, new pad! With regards to what compounds (and pads), that will largely depend on the hardness and thickness of the paint. Thickness is something that you're going to need to judge for yourself, the easiest safest way is a Paint Depth guage (good ones are expensive but will be able to tell the thickness of the lacquer separately to the rest of paint and as that's what you're worried about, they are worth every penny). The easiest way is just to go in blind and hope for the best - you may well be fine with that approach, many are, but it may cost you a respray. Entirely your choice. I can offer an educated guess at the hardness though, I'll just need to know what cars are they both are, how old and are they both OEM paint still or have they been resprayed at all? The standard advice always applies though - always start with the least aggressive combination and work your way up until you're seeing the results you need, never, ever, EVER just jump in with the most aggressive!

You do realise WHEN that photo was taken....right? Before Disney took over and "retired" all slave Leia merchandise and references... Expect (yet another) rework of RoTJ to remove all traces of that ever happening in due course.

Metal polish (with a bit of cut - autosol or megs woukd be where i'd start) with wire wool (000 to start with, maybe 00 if there's deep starches) and work your way up the grades until you're just polishing with a microfiber cloth. You can speed up the process with a Dremel or, probably more practical on that size surface, a drill with metal polishing kit but you'll probably still need to start with wire wool to flatten out some of the scratches. You'll find what you'll need to do is flatten out the scratches with abrasives and the polish back up to a chrome finish by working through the grades - similar to wetsanding.

I presume they're metal rather than chromed plastic? And how bad (deep) are the scratches?

I do so love the old "I was breaking the law but those rascally law enforcement people should focus on criminals that aren't me" arguement. :lol:

I'll alternate between you two every other weekend then. Now I just need a fleet of removals vans to fetch all my detailing stuff from Oop Norf...

I could do with somewhere to wash the Z actually, I've got no where to actually do any detailing down here.

I'm an anti-social git... I've always been busy when the meets are organised. I'm beginning to think it was planned that way.

Yeah, I've seen a number of Z's around these parts in the few months I've been here so it'd be good to meet up with some fellow owners. I'll be just off Fencepiece Road when I move.

Only until the new year when I move all the way to... Hainault.

Forgive me for pointing out the obvious but if you trying to keep insurance costs down (by looking at UK cars) why are you then looking at modified examples? Have you checked what insurance would be like with: - decats - japspeed catback - LMGT4 alloy wheels - rear diffuser Despite the seller trying to pass these off as Nismo they are not, they are modifications that have been added to the car. And the induction kit. And those badges aren't standard either so technically they should be declared as well (the Nismo one on the boot will certainly class as a modification by certain underwriters as it's "up-badging"). Also, no one going to mention that those seats are roadster specific?

A rather soggy black 370Z GT this morning, spotted as I was returning to my equally soggy 350Z parked 10 yards away. Anyone on here?

Einszett Gummi Pflege. [/thread]

Wheel cleaner - soap and water. Brushes - Wheel Woolies. The three pack and one of the angled ones for getting behind the spokes. Fallout remover is a whole other topic - currently almost everything has beaten Iron X in my (ongoing) test, Car Chem Revolt is currently my choice.

The BMW looks ridiculous with that suspension set up and the irritatingly asymmetrical, random number plate positioning. The Z looks great though - especially shiny, like it should be!

"Utilising multiple social media platforms", not stalking...

Meh, just your usual, typically entertaining, relatable and very well written piece by Dan. Although I've come to expect nothing less from your previous write ups on here, Dan, I do genuinely enjoy your writing style and this was certainly no exception. If I were wearing a hat, I would doff it to you sir.

I find booze in the mornings still help with getting up for work...

No idea on rust treatment to be honest. BH should be okay in the cold but it'll take a bit longer to dry fully.

Yes, you'll ideally need to treat any rust first - surface rust can just be cleaned up with a wire brush though - otherwise it'll only ever get worse.

But it's on the internet, so it must be true. Even the bits that contradict each other...