ilogikal1

You're not the only one. Quite a few up and down the pitlane have been left scratching their heads over this one. It's got to be down to a number of things, a 'perfect storm' if you will, rather than just one thing otherwise it would be simple for the teams to trace and identify.

Endlessly polishing the top layer away isn't really a solution. Apply a UV resistant coating like GTechniq C4 and you won't have to do anything to them at all for at least a year.

It's okay Stu, every single person in the world ever will be driving electric cars in 6 months time so the polar bears are safe. Come to think of it, the polar bears will all be driving Teslas too by then, so I hear. Well, the ones that live that long anyway.

The question remains that if such a magic trick exists that is so effective... Why turn it off at all? Dan's right though, everything driving related is conducted to pass a test not to obtain an end result, from this through to learning to drive.

Yep, what they did gone done say then; NIP was invalid.

Again, it doesn't matter when, or even IF, you receive the letter. It's when the letter was sent that counts.

yeah, I can see that being a vote winner . Pete FTFY.

Issued, not delivered. Issued within 14 days and never delivered is still perfectly enforceable.

A Tesla salesman told him. So it must be true.

I don't recall there being anything wired in the hidden floor, but if I remember rightly the SatNav disc unit jobber was located in that glove box (where spec'd, obviously). Bluetooth is indeed in the centre console though.

And now that the EU has decided that travelling IS working, I know which the employers will chose! Even with the unlimited millage (sic) warranty on a Tesla. Also, that still relies on the Supercharging points actually being available.

No, no, no, you're mistaken, this is exactly how the law works - everything is illegal until more than 3 people do it, then it instantly becomes perfectly acceptable... I'm sure that defence excuse will hold up against a slightly picky police officer too.

Correction; charging just isn't an issue FOR YOU. There are many people in the world, and even in this very country, that need to do more than 255 miles every 8-14 hours. Half hour charging times aren't too bad but even that's a step backwards, and just how many places offer this currently anyway? It's all well and good HOPING to be able to readily offer this service, but actually being able to achieve that is a very different thing altogether!

Just for clarity, these two might not be related....

Meh, if you can't afford to go on holiday...

Because that reason at the top of this page...?

That's not necessarily true, btw.

It's not always the cost that's the issue but the principal. One car registered on the 22nd March 2006 is charged the lower tax rate, an otherwise identical car registered on 24th is subject to the higher rate. Costs aside, it's that seemingly arbitrary date and teh arising principal of the matter that bothers some. Granted this is unavoidable when it's applied to registration date - there has to be a cut off somewhere, obviously - but that doesn't mean that registration date was the right variable to apply that particular rule to. That said... ...that resolves the issue, regardless.

Sorry, my life revolves around abbreviations these days. LSP = last stage product - wax, sealant or coating depending on preference, but essentially the top layer of protection. QD = quick detailer - a spray on product designed to lift minor dust, finger print marks and the like whilst adding a bit of gloss/shine and/or protection. Very few do more than one of these things well though. APC = all purpose cleaner - as the name suggests a very versatile cleaner, usually detergent based and diluted to suit the needs of the job at hand. I think that's all of them, but feel free to ask about any others.

Fair enough, I just wanted to make sure readers were aware - just to put it into perspective of how "not mild" it is, it's about as acidic as vinegar... which is also a very good water spot remover (that smells a lot). So really it is quite mild in the grand scheme of things, like you say Stu, but not entirely LSP safe at the same time. QD's don't (typically) live any longer than a asthmatic dragonfly with Progeria though. And those that do, aren't QD's. There are some topical cleaners, for various specific jobs like Tar-X which is supposedly LSP "safe" (and rubbish at tar removal for it!) and bug removers (see any citrus pre-wash), but not any water spot removers that I know of. By their design they need to acidic to break down the minerals so the chances are that anything not acid-based isn't going to work any better than plain old water anyway.

Oh, I also forgot to add; Regarding CarPro Spotless just a word of warning, it's not really that mild - it'll strip virtually every wax & most sealants (or at least weaken them). It's designed for use on coatings and is acid-based as a result (coatings can cope easily with acids but struggle with alkalis), but it's not so acidic that it'll melt your hand/paint/car (just the mineral deposits ). It is a very good product with obvious benefits and uses but just be aware that it can affect/strip your LSP.

I don't usually bother, tbh. Decon and/or polishing stages will remove far more than a shampoo anyway. Btw, Fairy Liquid as an LSP killer is a fallacy. It contains surfactants so affects the water behaviour which gives the appearance of killing an LSP but doesn't remove much (if any) of that LSP. Just FYI. No preference on either, tbh any hoover/steam cleaner that works and has a suitable attachment for the area you're cleaning will suffice. For light duties, APC or citrus pre-wash should be enough. For heavier duties, stronger APC or citrus pre-wash should still do it. For really heavy duties, carb cleaner. Not as many Gyeon products there as I thought there might be actually. As for Prep, I did consider including that or Eraser but IPA is IPA as far as I'm concerned. I know a number of people will swear blind that one product is considerably better than another (to the extent that I've actually seen arguments - yes, plural - made that suitably diluted IPA isn't good enough and you should use a product that is just pre-diluted-to-the-same-ratio IPA but that one works "much better"!), so on that front it depends how lazy you are; save money by buying neat and diluting it with filtered water yourself or save effort by buying it pre-diluted with/without an nice scent. So in that vein; Panel wipe down Neat IPA; Isopropyl alcohol - literally any, from anywhere, it's all the same stuff (but might come in different strengths, so dilute appropriately) - & DI/distilled water to dilute. Pretty red stuff that smells nice; Gyeon Q2 Prep Pretty blue stuff that smells nice; CarPro Eraser etc. Also I intentionally omitted QD's from my list (before someone notices) because I just don't see the point of them.

I'm not going to lie to you, Stu, but I forgot about this thread again before I got round to doing my list. So I'll do it now before I forget again. In some vague order; Pre-Wash Snow foam; Car Chem Snow Foam or Bilt Hamber Auto Foam. Pre-Wash; Auto Finesse Citrus Power or Car Chem Citrus Pre-Wash. Wash Wash pad; Microfibre Madness Incredipad. Shampoo; (with added protection) Gyeon Bathe+ or (pure shampoo) Car Chem Tailor Made. Decontamination Tar Remover; Auto Smart Tardis. Clay: CarPro Polyshave Decontamination Clay Towel. Fallout remover; TBC, currently Car Chem Revolt. Drying Drying aid; Daque 11litre DI Vessle with MB-115 resin (plus optional sunlight). Drying towel; Polished Bliss Luxury Drying Towel Wheels Wheel cleaner; Auto Finesse Imperial/Revolution Wheel sealant; GTechniq C1/4/5 or Gyeon Q2 Rim. Tyre dressing; Gyeon Q2 Tire (force cured). Wheel brush; Wheel Woolies Polish Compound: Scholl Concepts S20 Blue & Scholl Concepts S30+ Polishing pads; Lake Country Hydro-Tech Paint Cleaner; Jeffs Werkstat Prime (sadly no longer produced) or Car Chem Pre-Wax Cleaner. Glass Glass cleaner; GTechniq G6. Glass sealant; GTechniq G1 & G5. Glass polish; GTechniq G4. Trim Metal polish; Auto Finesse Mercury. Metal sealant; Gyeon Q2 Rim or Finish Kare 1000P. Exteriro plastic trim; Nanolex Trim Rejuvinator* or Hubikote HubiTrim. *(NTR version 1 > HubiTrim > NTR version 3 > NTR version 2 - v.1 is no longer produced, v.3 is the currently produced clear version, v.2 is the currently produced white version. Check with your retailer which version you're getting). Interior trim; Mad Cow Mango Sauce, HubiKote HubiDash or GTechniq C6. Rubber trim; Einzett Gummi Pfledge. Glaze Glaze; Auto Finesse Ultra Glaze or Poorboys Black Hole/White Diamond. All In One; Aut Finesse Tripple. LSP Wax (long durability); Car Chem Connoisseur, Poorboys Natty's Blue/Red or WaxAddict Quartz. Wax (show durability); Obsession Wax Phaenna. Sealant; AMMO Skin Defense Coat or Car Chem HydroCoat. Coating; Gyeon Prime. Other; Gyeon WetCoat. General APC; Auto Smart G101 or whatever is cheapest at the time. Leather cleaner; Dr Leather Cleaning Wipes. Leather deep clean; Dr Leather Liquid Cleaner. Leather sealant; Gyeon Q2 LeatherCoat Fabric cleaner; Nanolex Interior Cleaner or HubiFabric Fabric sealant; Gyeon Q2 FabricCoat Air Freshener; HubiKote HubiFresh or Polished Bliss PB Air Freshener Odour eliminator; CarPro SiO2 Microfibre detergent; Nanolex Microfibre Wash or Chemical Guys Microfibre Wash. Gloves; Black Mamba Nitrile Gloves. Cloths; WaxAdditct Dual Pile Microfibre cloths, Gyeon MicroSuede cloths, WaxAddict Glass cloths, Microfibre Madness Summit 800 Towel, Polished Bliss PB Super Buffing Towels & Polished Bliss PB Luxury Buffing Towel. Adequate product with the most stupid spelling on the tub; Meguiar's NXT Generation All Metal Polysh. There's a risk (read probability) that I've forgotten something somewhere (Stu, what have I forgotten?), but it's a start.

Apologies are in order. This... ...actually isn't true at all. Or well spelt. That (when properly spelt) related to a different product that I chose against using this time and I got confused. Dr Beasley's Glass Wax CAN be used on the windscreen. And it has been... but only on the Leon. Next time I'll try to get the beads a bit more uniform, because that's already bugging me as it is.