ilogikal1

I have a bit of experience with numerous glass sealants which I could quite happily run through the pros and cons of each but to keep it brief; If you want ease of use on such a small area, the Car Chem's glass sealant would be my recommendation. It'll need topping up once every couple of months probably (depending on how dirty the lens usually gets), but it's a very good, well priced product and the bottle will last you a good while even if you use it on your windows too. An actual coating like GTechniq G1 would be harder wearing and actually last longer but in essence, you'll need to give the lens a good clean (as in more than just a wipe over with soapy wash mitt once a week!) fairly regularly to keep any coating effective otherwise it'll just "clog up" and stop working at all - also not worth the cost of the bottle unless you're doing your windows too.

Not literally. Just saying.

You're not the only one. Quite a few up and down the pitlane have been left scratching their heads over this one. It's got to be down to a number of things, a 'perfect storm' if you will, rather than just one thing otherwise it would be simple for the teams to trace and identify.

Endlessly polishing the top layer away isn't really a solution. Apply a UV resistant coating like GTechniq C4 and you won't have to do anything to them at all for at least a year.

It's okay Stu, every single person in the world ever will be driving electric cars in 6 months time so the polar bears are safe. Come to think of it, the polar bears will all be driving Teslas too by then, so I hear. Well, the ones that live that long anyway.

The question remains that if such a magic trick exists that is so effective... Why turn it off at all? Dan's right though, everything driving related is conducted to pass a test not to obtain an end result, from this through to learning to drive.

Yep, what they did gone done say then; NIP was invalid.

Again, it doesn't matter when, or even IF, you receive the letter. It's when the letter was sent that counts.

yeah, I can see that being a vote winner . Pete FTFY.

Issued, not delivered. Issued within 14 days and never delivered is still perfectly enforceable.

A Tesla salesman told him. So it must be true.

I don't recall there being anything wired in the hidden floor, but if I remember rightly the SatNav disc unit jobber was located in that glove box (where spec'd, obviously). Bluetooth is indeed in the centre console though.

And now that the EU has decided that travelling IS working, I know which the employers will chose! Even with the unlimited millage (sic) warranty on a Tesla. Also, that still relies on the Supercharging points actually being available.

No, no, no, you're mistaken, this is exactly how the law works - everything is illegal until more than 3 people do it, then it instantly becomes perfectly acceptable... I'm sure that defence excuse will hold up against a slightly picky police officer too.

Correction; charging just isn't an issue FOR YOU. There are many people in the world, and even in this very country, that need to do more than 255 miles every 8-14 hours. Half hour charging times aren't too bad but even that's a step backwards, and just how many places offer this currently anyway? It's all well and good HOPING to be able to readily offer this service, but actually being able to achieve that is a very different thing altogether!

Just for clarity, these two might not be related....

Meh, if you can't afford to go on holiday...

Because that reason at the top of this page...?

That's not necessarily true, btw.

It's not always the cost that's the issue but the principal. One car registered on the 22nd March 2006 is charged the lower tax rate, an otherwise identical car registered on 24th is subject to the higher rate. Costs aside, it's that seemingly arbitrary date and teh arising principal of the matter that bothers some. Granted this is unavoidable when it's applied to registration date - there has to be a cut off somewhere, obviously - but that doesn't mean that registration date was the right variable to apply that particular rule to. That said... ...that resolves the issue, regardless.

Sorry, my life revolves around abbreviations these days. LSP = last stage product - wax, sealant or coating depending on preference, but essentially the top layer of protection. QD = quick detailer - a spray on product designed to lift minor dust, finger print marks and the like whilst adding a bit of gloss/shine and/or protection. Very few do more than one of these things well though. APC = all purpose cleaner - as the name suggests a very versatile cleaner, usually detergent based and diluted to suit the needs of the job at hand. I think that's all of them, but feel free to ask about any others.

Fair enough, I just wanted to make sure readers were aware - just to put it into perspective of how "not mild" it is, it's about as acidic as vinegar... which is also a very good water spot remover (that smells a lot). So really it is quite mild in the grand scheme of things, like you say Stu, but not entirely LSP safe at the same time. QD's don't (typically) live any longer than a asthmatic dragonfly with Progeria though. And those that do, aren't QD's. There are some topical cleaners, for various specific jobs like Tar-X which is supposedly LSP "safe" (and rubbish at tar removal for it!) and bug removers (see any citrus pre-wash), but not any water spot removers that I know of. By their design they need to acidic to break down the minerals so the chances are that anything not acid-based isn't going to work any better than plain old water anyway.

Oh, I also forgot to add; Regarding CarPro Spotless just a word of warning, it's not really that mild - it'll strip virtually every wax & most sealants (or at least weaken them). It's designed for use on coatings and is acid-based as a result (coatings can cope easily with acids but struggle with alkalis), but it's not so acidic that it'll melt your hand/paint/car (just the mineral deposits ). It is a very good product with obvious benefits and uses but just be aware that it can affect/strip your LSP.

I don't usually bother, tbh. Decon and/or polishing stages will remove far more than a shampoo anyway. Btw, Fairy Liquid as an LSP killer is a fallacy. It contains surfactants so affects the water behaviour which gives the appearance of killing an LSP but doesn't remove much (if any) of that LSP. Just FYI. No preference on either, tbh any hoover/steam cleaner that works and has a suitable attachment for the area you're cleaning will suffice. For light duties, APC or citrus pre-wash should be enough. For heavier duties, stronger APC or citrus pre-wash should still do it. For really heavy duties, carb cleaner. Not as many Gyeon products there as I thought there might be actually. As for Prep, I did consider including that or Eraser but IPA is IPA as far as I'm concerned. I know a number of people will swear blind that one product is considerably better than another (to the extent that I've actually seen arguments - yes, plural - made that suitably diluted IPA isn't good enough and you should use a product that is just pre-diluted-to-the-same-ratio IPA but that one works "much better"!), so on that front it depends how lazy you are; save money by buying neat and diluting it with filtered water yourself or save effort by buying it pre-diluted with/without an nice scent. So in that vein; Panel wipe down Neat IPA; Isopropyl alcohol - literally any, from anywhere, it's all the same stuff (but might come in different strengths, so dilute appropriately) - & DI/distilled water to dilute. Pretty red stuff that smells nice; Gyeon Q2 Prep Pretty blue stuff that smells nice; CarPro Eraser etc. Also I intentionally omitted QD's from my list (before someone notices) because I just don't see the point of them.