ilogikal1

He would have to own a Ferrari himself for that though

Good results there, well done that man.

Also there's absolutely no reason to jump straight to the most aggressive option straight away. First rule of detailing, always start with the least abrasive option and only step up if you need to.

You should be able to tidy that up a bit at the very least. You will need a tangerine one of these with a bit of this and a fair amount of this, removed with one of these. After that, you'll need a crimson one of these with a bit of this and more of of this, removed with another one of these. Then when you're both happy that you've achieved all you can achieve and you're absolutely knackered, you can get your AutoGlym Polish (which isn't actually a polish, hence it didn't do much) out and fill what you can't polish out and then wax/seal on top. Better still, get one of these with the DAS-6, put on your big boy pants and learn a new skill. Or alternatively get yourself one of these. I'd hazard a guess from the pictures that you might struggle to get it perfect without paint but you can certainly make it less noticeable if not near perfect just by polishing it out.

Ah, I don't know about those silly topless cars without proper roofs I'm afraid I'd be surprised if the roadster didn't have them, butitwoildnt be the first time Nissan has surprised me!

I was confused by the one off payment that's annual though.

Maybe it's just been a long day or something, but... Eh?!?

Assuming you've got a 350Z, then yes. IIRC it's connected to the rear screen de-mister jobbie button (it's been too long since I even sat in my Z, I should know this!). I presume the '70 is the same but I don't actually know.

Sadly not tried any Vics waxes, despite wanting to. I hear nothing but good things about them though.

That's because it's such an entertaining subject. Of course my generous charm and wit help too.

Wow. This guy has taken it wayyy beyond any thing I have ever done! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll give that an in depth read Apologies for the long post - I tend to ramble on, on this topic. In terms of Chemical Guys products in general; never, ever, EVER believe their marketing! Always look for independent reviews because Chemical Guys UK import the products from the manufacturer (Chemical Guys USA), sadly Chemical Guys USA don't know what they make and Chemical Guys UK don't know what they sell! Have a look at the marketing for Black Light for example, between the two it promises to do everything of everer whereas in reality it's just a glaze. That's not to say they're bad products, they typically do what they do quite well. They just don't quite do what CGUK/CGUSA promise they do... As Mr Dan has pointed out, products "designed" for specific colours is just marketing to a degree - any last stage product (LSP) will work on any colour. Granted some look marginally (and I do mean marginally!) better on certain finishes than others, but to be honest most people wouldn't notice any difference when they're sat side-by-side on the same panel [/voice of experience]. Bin the chamois, get a microfibre drying towel and learn the fine art of the pat dry - never drag anything over the paintwork unless you have to, especially on the uber-soft Nissan paint! - or better still get yourself a DI resin filter; final rinse with filtered water & leave to dry naturally. No drying needed, no water marks left behind. I personally don't rate AG Shampoo either, but that might just be me. Also remember that AG UDS contains a wealth of fillers - there's nothing wrong with that from a finish point of view, but it won't hide all the marring which will affect the finish you get, and it will adversely affect the durability of the LSP to some degree. Sadly with black, you're always going to suffer from it looking dirtier, quicker as that's just the nature of black - black looks awesome when it's freshly polished but looks terrible 5 minutes later. There's not much you can do about water marks from the rain really as any rain that dries on the car is going to leave something behind as a rule. More generally though, as Mr Dan has eluded to, the finish you get will be determined by the preparation you do prior to the wax/LSP. The better the prep, the better the finish. With black it's all about making the paint as defect-free and flat as possible which invariably means polishing, polishing and more polishing. Look into abrasive compounds depending on your level of experience and what risks you're willing to take... or look into paying a professional to do that bit for you if you'd rather. After that's been done once, you should be all right with AG USD, for a while at least, but ideally you want to perfect your safe wash technique - namely making it as touchless as possible, applying the 2 bucket method and using the right type of products.

^^^ That. It might help a bit but in reality it probably won't make much of a difference with dew really (Rain-X certainly won't, but that's a separate issue...). To be honest though, with the heated mirrors on the Z a glass coating isn't really needed anyway because they clear quite quickly.

The guys in the 350Z have been arrested under suspicion of dangerous driving. That's police talk for "we don't know what happened yet so perhaps we should do some of that investigation stuff we've heard about on the tellybox". There's no assumption at this point, there's just not enough evidence (hence asking for more!) to make any conclusions. There's no charges yet, let alone a trial!

The referees in football are terrible these days, agreed. Nearly as bad and bemusing as the "bonus points" crap in the rugby. Nearly.

There are plenty of threads on here alone where someone is either moaning or bragging (for want of a better word) that their Z was mistaken for any number of cars, from Audi TT's through Porsche's to Lambourghini's and just about everything between. No matter what you own, someone, somewhere will think it's something else.

Surely it would be cheaper and easier to sell your manual and buy an auto?

Oh dear. That is all.

^^^ This. Also Grimshaw is a bellend of the highest degree, although I disagree with the people who want him kicked off X Factor... I would much rather X Factor is kicked off the TV schedule and replaced by something good instead.

As round, steery things go, Stu, that is a very nice round, steery thing! I'm almost tempted to get mine done... by which I mean I might need to add it to the list things that I won't get round to doing. Keeping the nap in the same direction isn't so much of a problem as keeping the nap on the wheel. Unless you wear gloves all the time, it'll soon shed itself off of any surface you regularly touch. As you just look like a tool driving to the shops in your racing gloves.

Poor choice of words....

Or in rugby either.

I can vouch for both. GTechniq is better.

Massive fan of RainX. It's so awesome that my car doesn't get any water on it at all when it rains, just a nice 350Z shaped dry patch around it... ...or, y'know, none of those things.

I have a bit of experience with numerous glass sealants which I could quite happily run through the pros and cons of each but to keep it brief; If you want ease of use on such a small area, the Car Chem's glass sealant would be my recommendation. It'll need topping up once every couple of months probably (depending on how dirty the lens usually gets), but it's a very good, well priced product and the bottle will last you a good while even if you use it on your windows too. An actual coating like GTechniq G1 would be harder wearing and actually last longer but in essence, you'll need to give the lens a good clean (as in more than just a wipe over with soapy wash mitt once a week!) fairly regularly to keep any coating effective otherwise it'll just "clog up" and stop working at all - also not worth the cost of the bottle unless you're doing your windows too.

Not literally. Just saying.