techinstaller

I have not used the products from this company ,but do use something very similar from a company called Trackit247 which is pay as you go based with sim cards.and has a similar web set up the products look very similar and the tracking and reporting is spot on. however the unit we use from them also has an output which can be enabled via sms message which can be wired to just about anything,you want to turn on or off. we use it with a relay to disrupt a starting circuit to prevent use of a vehicle on our rental fleet of taxi and private hire cars ,so if the rent is not paid we can just look and see where the car is,maybe we will want to recover it,or just check a drivers story about being 100 miles away and not back till tomorrow. If outstanding payments are becoming a problem the car is remotely turned off !! and wont start Amazing results in reducing outstanding rental payments. we also use it to disable vehicles that are parked up and not in use for longer periods as a security measure

Hi did you swap the heater ECU also (the white box behind the heater control panel ) for the later unit?

quite a few of us have done the full swap of door cards and console ,some small amount of wiring mods needed and more parts than you think will need swapping ,i wouldnt expect much change from a monkey (£500)or may be more in top condition for the lot with door cards tbh

get up earlier and get to work earlier then park in the M Directors space ,when he comes looking tell him its first up best dressed and your not moving it

VERY SORRY NOW THAT I BOUGHT UP THE MANKINI!!!!

NO MANKINI

i HAVE SEEN SIMILAR BEFORE ON OCCASION THE ORIGINAL PLASTIC WHITE PLUGS SEEM TO GO BRITTLE AND DISINTIGRATE / CRUMBLE ,I REPAIRED ONE BEFORE BY BUYING A S.O.T LEAD COMONLY USED TO FIT PARROT HANDSFREE KITS SO HAS ALL PLUGS FOR ORIGINAL STEREO ON ,AND SIMPLY USED A RELEASE TOOL FOR THE PINS AND USED THE NEW EMPTY SHELLS ON THE VEHICLE ORIGINAL WIRING SO COST A £15.00 TO GET THE NEW PLASTIC PLUGS BASICALY. I DID FIND A WIRING PINOUT SOMEWHERE ONLINE THAT IDENTIFIED EACH WIRES LOCATION TO MAKE IT EASY

lol by domestic i meant at home rather than for any business type use

enough said by others on the mixing of tyres and the quality you started the thread to ask for advice and have been given said advice ,so guess if it were me i would take it.. ?? all written with no grammer

personally for a good cheap domestic tablet you could consider Acer iconia one either 8inch or 10 inch ?about £100

Its not that hard to swap out the internal CD unit from the stereo chassis its sort of a complete unit that fits in from the top and has a few screws holding it and a wiring loom . The front panel clips off as a complete unit as well from memory with no wires or looms involved ,I have actually swapped the newer Bose stereo front panel from a later facelift unit onto the original DE non face lift Bose stereo to get around the code problem when i fitted a full later facelift console and center panel as the corners of the front panel are a different shape and contour and i prefered to keep the car standard looking. I say not difficult but skill set of the individual might be relervent as i strip vehicles interiors and electronics daily for installations etc

also the front panel completly removes from the rest of the unit and is not coded so if you have mint front panel and buttons ,thats another spare part for sale to replace worn ,tatty or faulty button stereo

or if they are good non skipping cd units ,you could have dismantled the units and removed the cd multi unit and sold them for people to swap the faulty CD unit on their own car that bit is not coded

yes they are are straight swap ,i have swaped mine for a pair of facelift door cards from a 350z convertible as they were easier to obtain and they will go straight in with the later grab handle and plastic switch panels ,although you can use your old switches in the later facelift panels which might save you money .Also with a couple of extra wires you can hook up the extra cup holder LED lights so they coam on with the ignition like the rest of the amber dash lights

most parts on ebay now listings 151999501990 272183921205 281977548254 281976195194 281976201150 most parts with same seller i would try and bid / offer him a deal on the lot be quick I have no connection with the seller just though i would do a quick search out of curiosity for you

Its not that expensive to change the center console really ,best way is to try and buy the whole lot of parts from the same source at the same time which is what i did tbh. i bought it all from GDUK JAP PARTS LTD they are jap breakers so might be worth a try. i just added it all up and was £297 inc postage remember you need whole center console lower section gear surround and the later heater switches/ dials 2x side panels top cubby section down to heater controls later heater control ECU and if you still have OEM head unit and want to keep it you will need the later facelift unit to remove the front panel and swap with yours not needed tho if you have after market head unit and a bit of wiring work to relocate the hazard light switch

just use a multimeter ,set to ohms and read the resistance of the airbag you wish to delete and use a resistor of that value across the car loom wires that went to the airbag

why not swap the entire face lift center console and gear surround complete with heater unit and controls, cubby etc ,updates the look and moves the hazard switch to a better location

I have done the same conversion fitting the facelift stereo / facia and center console side panels etc .All parts are different even the early stereo front is different too the later face lift and as mentioned mounts slightly different so it follows that the aftermarket facia adapters will be different.

Would An Audi RS6 not meet the OPs idea as enthused about ,show meets and performance ,as im currently a bit tempted .the 35k woul be face lifted 2010 with the v8 lambo engine throw some decats at it if its not allready loud enough and the upside is its a useable car all round plus can carry the family . just a thought as no one has thrown it in the mix

Actual removal is easy just remove the screw cover and phillips screw from within the door pulland then pull carefully but firmly upwards on the plastic door pull until it comes away ,you will see 2x 10mm bolts with phillips head in 1x at each end holding door card . there is also 1x shorter 10mm phillips head bolt hidden at top under a small plastic cover behind the lever you use to open the door ,with silver handle pulled back you will see small rubber grommet in a recess that stops the handle when released the grommet stays in the plastic but that little biece clips out look deep inside you will see the 10mm bolt . rest of card just clips of as held by usual trim clips you will then see a metal panel which has the motor and the regulator assembly attached to it but is of course on the other side still in the door the whole assembly is held on by 10mmm bolts all round edge which would need removeing ,but first remove the window glass by lowering the window until the window carrier bolts X3 can be seen through the access holes which are covered by plastic black vinyl circles ,i remove them and glue them back after as i have OCD. with window removed you can prise off the complete metal panel away from the door, unplug wiring looms and turn over , the motor can be removed by undoing three phillips screws . If you then remove the motor top cover from the motor armature you can inspect the brush's and clean up . THis little job as an hour if you handy with the tools ,but if you need to replace the brushes it will be a little more fiddly and more time consuming hope this helps, sorry it s a bit long and rambling but im doing in a hurry as i should be doing some real work lol If the window had a guide or holder issue it would be falling around in the frame .If as you say it is fixed firmly but will not go up or down you will find it is the common window motor problem ,motor bushes worn or stuck easy diy fix really ,i wont try to describe that repair as i think someone else has done a how to if you use the search

Another Z in Eastbourne lol there arnt many so you will see mine about although its mostly locked up in my workshop warm and dry

also definatly not sure but may have had 260k showing which is why i remember it ,but as i deal with so many cars i may be mistaken just check it carefully if you looking to buy

I have a feeling its a genuine car for sale ,Im not 100% sure but think it was recently sold at auction and bought by a company in Reading called sterling cars who basically buy a lot of trade ins vehicles at Blackbush BCA auction they buy anything good and bad an especially with high miles and then they resell on ebay under the seller ID "carswithnoreserve" it was auctioned twice selling for £3.5 k a few weeks ago. I remember the marks and the car year especially as its a DE with facelift interior etc ,i looked at it when i was in their yard picking up another car . I suspect this seller bought it and for some reason is moving it on maybe just a quick flip for a profit or something more sinister

looks like it might have been part of a reverse park sensor kit maybe ?