techinstaller

thanks mate then it looks like i would need to replace the next section which is the two metal pipes from the slam panel down to the cooler starting at the top where they are held to the front panel with a 10mm bolt and a rubber insulater in the a metal bracket ,it must be those two pipes as the rest back is brand new off the shelf and they do appear to be constantly wet athat joint hence me adding the extra clips which has slowed it but not stopped it ,i had thought the old rubber ones i replaced had deteriated internally but it must be the metal ones ,i will have to stripp again and recheck ,how much for the pipes mate if you have them cheers

Anyone had real problems with stopping or curing leaking pipework on the power steering ? i have a real problem trying to stop fluid loss on the pipes from the cooler going through the front panel and up inner wing to resevior i have stripped the front twice in a weak with bumper off and now replaced the complete assembly from the fluid tank with all the rubber and metal pipes (oem nissan parts) up as far as the 2 metal pipes passing through the front slam panal which are bolted in from behind bumper with an insulter,both the pipe ends looked perfect that i have connected to but the leak seems to be at that point now i also have doubled up the oem clips with an extra jubilee clip on each pipe. just done 25 miles and still have fluid showing on inner panels and bottom tray i gladly would replace all the rest of pipes down to cooler if i was sure it would cure it,but also a problem obtaining the parts from nissan dealer with long lead times really not wanting to strip again without a cure

i would take the bluetooth unit for the £70 inc post mate,can paypal funds if ok

the squib would be the coiled cable connection unit used on most modern cars between the steering wheel and the column which coils and uncoils as you turn left and right basically and which carries the air bag /stereo /cruise etc connections across from a stationary bit of the car to a constantly moving part ie the steering wheel ,obvoiusly a normall bunch of wires would not work as they would need to increase and deacrease in length as you turned the wheeland would in any case soon fracture,that is sort of the simplest description in basic terms,they do however fail at some point hope that helps

At best you may find problem as a loose connection but could be the squib on its way out mate

could be worth looking at the non return valve in the washer water pipe at the rear as these fail quite common and the water then either does not come out at all or only dribles out ,best using after market replacement as if like the front one (locate under wiper scuttle in brake fluid cover area nissan wanted £22 for the valve as it only comes complete with pipes lol. i think the rear valve is acutually in the tailgate but sure a more knowledgable Z er will come along soon and let you know exact location

we could save fuel just by driving like miss daisy but who would want to ? ijust happy to pay for the big grin i get when i hit the loud pedal...in fact im grinning know just thinking about hitting the loud pedal

if by bass cutting out you mean the bose sub behind your seat is cutting in and out or poping like a blown speaker you might find that the small sub amp bolted next to the sub is faulty ,remove speaker cover remove sub and disconnect ,loosen the 2x bolts you can see nearer the seat belt side and lift off the little amp and withdraw it out the sub speaker hole ,it can then be unplugged flip it over and remove the 4 small screws to remove the black plastic case the silver covers can then be prised open and off like a book (just note for refit how they are) then look on the circuit board for a small grey box (which is a relay) near the back next you could try flipping it over and reflowing the 5 solder joints which affix it to the board but i have found that does not allways have the desired effect but however if you then find a very strong piece of adehsive backed foam and cut to the size of the top of the relay the firmer the better and stick it on top ,it needs to be raised higher than the level of the silver covers so that when you replace them it effectivly pushes down hard on the relay if you then screw it all back together it will be permanantly under firm pressure ,refit the lot and 9 times out of 10 it will cure the problem sub will work without issue ......let me know