ZMANALEX

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You will be lucky if you get 2 - 4 weeks on standby I am afraid.

I should have this in stock. However collection only from PH1 4HS I am afraid. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

I should have this in stock. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

I should have this in stock. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Bolted to the car and I have them in stock. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

£220.00 Dan and hardware kit is £20.00 if required. All in stock and good to go same/next day.

New OEM "W" bracings are in stock and good to go same/next day if you decide to replace.

Back to Black may work, if not carefully remove, flat and spray.

Much will depend on the offset of your new wheels.

This may help: P1091 Nissan Description VVEL (Variable Valve Event & Lift) is a system that controls valve event and valve lift continuously. Rotational movement of the drive shaft equipped with eccentric cam is transmitted to output cam via the rocker arm and two kinds of links to depress the intake valve. The Engine Control Module (ECM) decides the target valve lift according to the driving condition and sends the command signal to the VVEL control module. The VVEL control module controls the rotation of the control shaft using the VVEL actuator motor and changes the movement of the output cam by shifting the link supporting point. As a result, valve lift changes continuously to improve engine output and response. Power supply for the VVEL actuator motor is provided to the VVEL control module via VVEL actuator motor relay. VVEL actuator motor relay is ON/OFF controlled by the VVEL control module. In addition, when the VVEL actuator motor relay cannot be controlled by the VVEL control module for some reason, it ON/OFF controlled by ECM.

The hardened hardware (rods and nuts) are not up to the job I am afraid. Z1 are obviously aware of this and that is why they mention it and offer replacements. If you are lucky you MAY get 1 use out of the removal rod/nuts. Also, remember that the instructions for the Whiteline ear bushings are incorrect and should be fitted the opposite way from there instructions.

Removing and refitting the diff is fairly straight forward and not to time consuming. The main issue is the removal of the OEM sub frame diff bushing as most of the bush removal tools are not up to the job. It is a messy job but I now cut or burn out the old bushing. It is a DIY but a ramp is really required.

They simply just do not keep the engine coolant cool enough, especially on track. OEM rads. do a far better job than Mishimoto.

I would avoid both, to be honest. Not a fan of there stuff, bar there fan motor shroud unit which works reasonably well, but not as good as stock.

Good luck with your suspension check, however, the fault does not lie there I am afraid.

At the end of the day mate, the buck stops with you as you instructed the PZero to be fitted to your car. Most tyre fitters are exactly that, tyre fitters and they don't know their arse from there elbow. PZero are not shite, they are simply not suited to your car when mixed with others, simples. is this so difficult to understand mate?

Koyo is your friend. You have a choice depending on your model of 350 and what your intended use is for the car. Avoid Mishimoto and similar.

Preowned fully working OEM power window motors with the reset button are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Good luck with that: Save your energy and move on. How do expect to get recompense for your own mistake?

They are not crush washers and are reusable providing they are not damaged.

See my post above: ^^^^^^^