For what it is worth, the OEM fan shroud for the DE and HR is far superior to any aftermarket shroud out there including Mishimoto.
Also, the stock OEM radiator is a better choice than the Mishimoto rad.
Just a quick update.
Engine/Gearbox reinstalled and running well and all looking good:
Then found an oil leak from the L/H Turbo so engine out again and Turbo sent back to the refurb. shop.
Turbo arrived back this morning so got cracking early doors and had it running by 8pm and now dry as a bone.
Providing that all the parts that you have replaced/machined are good then all it will require is a proper bleed.
You simply have air in the hydraulic system.
You can also adjust the pedal, however that is not the root cause.
Providing that all the parts that you have replaced/machined are good then all it will require is a proper bleed.
You simply have air in the hydraulic system.
You can also adjust the pedal, however that is not the root cause.
This guy is either winding us all up or he is genuinely clueless and wanting to learn.
He has only been on the forum for 3 months and most the posts that he has started are in a similar vein.
Check out @SeraTaru
However, I do agree that if you can not get a handle on the simple things like tyre pressures then you should leave maintenance stuff to someone who does.
Change the slave and fluid and fit a braided line and bleed all the air out the hydraulic system without letting the master reservoir run dry.
Parts cost less than £80.00 and takes about 30 mins.
Best with 3 peeps for the bleed, 1 on the pedal 1 on the slave and 1 on the reservoir.
Adjusting the pedal may help however you are only glossing over the cracks.
Sorry mate, but I do not I am afraid.
However, I may have a pedal assembly coming off a 350 that I am dismantling end of next week, so I will pay particular attention to this.