ZMANALEX

Reposition back to OEM factory setting and go from there:

All parts are in stock, however, I am a bit unsure what parts you really want/require and what route you prefer to go. Drop me a PM and we can discuss further. All fuel parts/pipes/fittings are in stock and good to go same/next day.

Yeah very straight forward, however, it is imperative that you follow the in-depth installation guide found on the RJM Performance website.

Feedback will follow after my next track session with the 350.

I can provide brand new if that is what you prefer. I have just done a quick check and they are showing in stock at the minute. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further.

Only got a good L/H in stock mate and a slightly twisted R/H which will straighten. Shop meaning workshop, but loads spare parts in stock including half a dozen diffs, so guess that you are well covered.

to the forum from another old fart and also owner of a 2005 Azure Roadster.

I should have these in stock. Let me check in the shop tomorrow for you.

Plenty in stock: Pm received and replied to.

I have a twin plate ATS Carbonetic for a DE which is in great shape. Just drop me a PM if of interest to you.

Your car will have VDC.

Yes, give it a good roasting on way for retest and get the temps up as high as poss. Works most of the time.

back Stan:

PM received and replied to:

What Jay has said. ^^^^ Plug in your code reader to the OBD 2 port and pull the fault codes. Then post the codes up here for a diagnosis.

I honestly just don't have the time mate. If I had started one in 2005 it just would have been a case of updating as I went along but too late for that now, I am afraid. However just to keep you in the loop. I am fitting a Z1 Fuel anti-starvation kit and RJM clutch pedal assy. tomorrow.

I have these in stock, just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Check out your service book as it will contain all the information that you are asking for.

Used to is the operative word. Do you wanna buy it?

In stock and good to go same/next day.

The stat is very easy to remove and check, however as stated before I am leaning towards an air lock within the coolant system. Did you bleed the system properly as per the Nissan workshop manual to get rid of all the air? This issue has been covered many times in the past on here and I posted a bleed guide up previously. Other common issues are fan motor failure and choked rad. However 99.9% of the time it is an air lock.

In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Fill up with coolant and bleed system to get all the air out and then pressure test system to trace the leak. If you are lucky then you may be able to pressure test without the time-consuming bleeding procedure, however, you will have to bleed properly once you have rectified the fault

If you want a proper job then a new hood is required I am afraid, however, if you are not fussed about appearance then it could be patched over, but it will not be pretty. Best to get a new Mohair IMHO.

New pads should always be fitted when replacing the rotors. Have a read here: https://www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=18TEXN7yKumq0PEPw5qQ4AY&q=disc+brake+rotor+thickness+variation&oq=Disc+thickness+variation&gs_l=psy-ab.1.2.0l2j0i22i30.2233.9609..17107...0.0..0.492.10373.3-6j18......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0i10j0i22i10i30.91zrTL55d3Y