ilogikal1

Even single stage paint is easily protected from UV rays, not least of all by keeping it out of the sun. Even if it were faded, a day with a machine polisher will make it a nice, shiny red again. I wouldn't pay £16 for it personally, mind you, let alone £16k.

Along with countless other assumptions; if they don't, or that projection is wrong, your arguments fall flat on their face. This is the problem with trying to work out or persuade anyone based on how much it'll save or cost them because nothing about the 3 has been confirmed, much less born out yet, so you're left with nothing more than guessing either way. I mean, if everyone starts driving EV's today the demand, and therefore cost, of both EV's and electricity will increase and that of petrol will decrease, urgo [insert invented and assumptive maths here] proving that it'll be cheaper to buy a 8 litre V12 by next Tuesday. Or something.

AF Tripple is a great filing AIO, but I'm not sure it's better than Cleanser Fluid (which is pretty good itself). AF Rejuvinate is just about my favourite cutting AIO though; very little else comes close to it, especially in terms of paint cleaning even if you go dedicated cleaner. By hand it doesn't have much cut, so it's safe to use on all paint types.

I disagree. There are considerably better glazes, considerably better cleaners, considerably better base products, considerably better AIO's, all for considerably better money, IMO. I'd even go as far as to say that SRP is a terrible paint cleaner. Granted it's full of fillers so makes a reasonable glaze though. One thing I do know for sure though; it's a s***e polish that it's named for! All IMHO of course, I know some people do like it and if it works for you, go for it.

Yes, Carlack is second only to (the now unavailable) Werkstat Prep. It's very good. Definitely only use Black Hole under a wax - Natty's is perfect for it because they're designed to work well together. To get the absolute best out of silver though, you're looking at making sure the paint is as clean as can possibly be and machine polishing, anything you top it with after that is largely down to preference really - aside from SiO2 coatings, it's not going to make a huge difference in reality, you just want to protect the paintwork by that point. SiO2 coatings are a completely different story though, they'll add gloss to any finish but can be a bit of a pain to apply properly compared to a wax or acrylic sealants.

I can confirm that there's a tiny, tiny difference between Natty's Blue and White that's virtually indiscernible even when they're side by side on the same panel in the same light. The only reason I'd treat silver different to something like black (for example) is that it can be difficult to get any depth to silver, so I'd tend to stick to sealants/coatings to get maximum gloss rather than looking for depth and/or wet look. From this; There's little-to-no point in using Black Hole before FK1000P, as FK is quite solventy it'll just strip the Black Hole anyway - Black Hole should be reserved for use under Carnauba waxes like Natty's only, really. FK will also bond better to bare paint than to a filler glaze too, so drop the Black Hole if using FK1000P. Nope. Just nope. SRP is fine if you don't know any better (or don't really care), but EGP is now so old hat that it's a lot of effort to use for literally none of the benefits it used to be able to offer. There are many, many (many, MANY!) better products for less money about these days. You've already named two for a start!

In the current weather it'll last a few days, maybe even weeks before it starts to go again. You'll need to throw a sealant at them for anything more long term.

Gyeon fanboys.

Apologies for going back a few pages on this one, but God actually instructed to carry a lot more than 2 of each animal, Genesis 7:2,3 states (in it's current format at least); So as well the 2 of each animal, there were an additional 7 of each "clean" animal and bird. Which wouldn't have fit on the Ark, even assuming the largest interpretation of the measurements provided. And even if they did, it wouldn't float.

Just to clear a few things up; TFR will strip wax no matter how long you leave it on if it's not heavily diluted, that's the point of it. Granted there are now a number of products sold as "TFR" that are just slightly more concentrated snow foam (or in one case, literally just "their" shampoo in a different bottle!) but much like super resin polish isn't a polish, these "TFR's" aren't TFR's. Closed cell sponges aren't "fine" if there's as much as a single grain of dirt on the surface, as that will cause damage. If the car is perfectly clean then they can be "fine" but even then I've seen a brand spanking new closed cell sponge marr perfectly clean soft paint. This however isn't any different to microfibre cloths though, anything that touches the paint can damage it if you're not careful enough. Finally, "should have", not "should of". [/pet hate]

Or Ferrari wouldn't let them punish him.

Great choice with at least one of those four.

Look at my Rocket Bu.... [delete]. Sorry, this not acceptable use [/ekona]

No one going to suggest the M240i then?

Well moving's a bit extreme, but if it works...

Vettel was still staunchly adamant that Lewis had bake-tested him... even after seeing the footage with the graphic demonstrating that he didn't and still after he's been shown telemetry proving he didn't. Granted by that point he had very little choice; he needed to defend himself because he knew he had ****ed up. This bit, for me, is the problem with just a retrospective DQ on it's own though. If Vettel deliberately aims his car at another person, he has no place on the track. I get the point about the fans being disappointed and it being entertainment for those fans, and sadly I can't help but feel that this will heavily influence the FIA's decision despite the fact that it shouldn't, but ultimately if he can't handle the pressure and starts acting out like that then he simply shouldn't be on the track. I can see it from both sides. Vettel deserves to be punished for what he did (and deserves a severe penalty), but a severe penalty will adversely affect "the show" which is already under a lot of criticism already these days. I don't think the FIA can win here.

The stewards have said shortly after the race that they didn't want to DQ him purely to avoid having any negative effect on the championship and that the FIA can review and interject should they deem it necessary. The stewards themselves have both made them look weak & toothless whilst also not-at-all subtly shifting the onus for any meaningful punishment squarely on the shoulders of the FIA. If the FIA now DON'T act, they, along with stewards, are saying that such behaviour is perfectly acceptable... at least if you're in the title hunt.

For the same reason you haggled with the manufacturer when you bought the car; you think the deal could be cheaper. Same theory, the insurance company may well value it differently to the manufacturer, the same way you did.

Er... yeah... "kids"...

Just when I start to think you're a voice of reason around here you go and say something stupid like all that....

Sealant or wax. No need/benefit/point to using both.

49C, isn't that the average temperature of the Central line in the height of winter?!? [/London problems]

Cancoat will take up to 7 days (I think, from memory) to fully cure, in that time if it gets wet it can suffer from waterspot etching (ie. requires polishing to remove, which will take the coating with it), Cure is thus a sacrificial layer to protect the underlying coating from waterspotting I that first week - certainly within the first 24-48 hours. If you're keeping the car out of the elements for that time, away from water and don't feed it after midnight then there's little need for Cure as well but if you're rolling the car out of the garage as soon as you're done it's a protective layer until the coating is fully cured. In short; not essential but worth the effort if you want to use your car in the first week.

Even the AutoGlym AC bomb works well... although typically not the cheapest offering. But; This^^^.

You can polish, but that'll remove the coating from the area as well. The immediate area is likely to need at least a quick polish though so there's little you can do to avoid that. Do you know which coating was applied and when?