mr v6

Go & lose yourself on Detailing World & spend some time on there. What works for other novices may not work with you. Don't get sucked into all the brand snobbery too, you don't need to spend a silly amount of money on products if you're just getting to know the difference between a detailing spray & ceramic coating ect.. Good luck.

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Sounds exactly like mine, the initial prime is to pressurise the system, then it'll run once started. Isn't the Z a return-less system? I wouldn't worry about it Jason.

Hold both buttons down for a few seconds, then unlock the car with the remote key, if you've done it right both doors will unlock. If you want to revert back to only the drivers door unlocking, just repeat the procedure.

Sounds like the fuel pump inside the tank to me. Mine makes a similar noise, you can hear it when parked at the side of the house with the window down.

This also works for my 05, but I left it so the passenger door stays locked.

Gotta love a ghetto install, well done.

^ ^ Exactly this. I had a hydraulic issue 3 days after getting my Z, luckily the garage replaced the slave for a new one & fitted the HEL braided line I sent them (they also paid for the line). I was never happy with how the pedal felt after they eventually bled it. I ended up bleeding it with my dad pressing the pedal. A YT video shows some valve under the n/s/f wheel arch line that's an issue when bleeding, apparently. My pedal feels real good now. Only today was I sat in 30oC temps on the M6 with lots of stop / starting (upto 15mph) & crawling along & had total confidence the hydraulics were properly bled. I even bought a Stoptech slave from one of the traders on here to upgrade it to at some point along with some Motul RBF660. My Z also has a Clark Motorsport stage 1 clutch with SMF conversion too. Something to consider.

If they're getting hot then they're not moving freely in the caliper, movement should be very little, but not tight. My guess is you have the above issue with that rear caliper, so you'll need to take the edges of the pad off to get them to fit.

By the time I pulled the phone out & was trying to focus, the phone was more interested on focusing on the dash, hence the blur in the background. I'm pretty local to the area & haven't seen it around before.

Spotted parked up on Davyhulme Road this morning. Had Speedhunter graphics on it, looks to have been wrapped, big wing on the rear & the usual stuff. Excuse the poor pic, phone didn't want to focus, yes I was the passenger. The work appeared to have been done pretty well, didn't look like it was cobbled together. Not my cuppa tea though.

@Ekona: I've not noticed it, but I was looking in my wing mirrors at the time to check what was around me. @Jack94: Fronts are both on 4mm & are RE040.

Just to update this. Both tyres were exactly the same brand / model as the 2 removed, both fitted within a week of each other, so roughly 100 miles apart. I sometimes get a weird twitch sensation from the back when going round long, not too tight, sweeping bends. It's kind of like power to the back wheels is being cut slightly. Are the tyres still bedding in, if they need to be??

It's probably this: Only last weekend I did the front discs & pads on the 406 Coupe V6 which have the same Brembo 4 pots up front. The sliders are stainless steel, the calipers aluminium. A reaction occurs between both surfaces which cause the slider plates to lift a little, thus reducing the gap in which the pads fit. Ideally you're best off removing & splitting the caliper, remove the slider plates (which will be a little bent) & cleaning the surface underneath. You can buy sets of sliders for under £20 on ebay along with the new screws. I too had to grind the sides of the pads down to accommodate the reduced gap.

Accompany it with the bumper tuck, you won't be disappointed.. I've not seen what the rear of that exhaust looks like, but you should do it.