ilogikal1

Quick, stick him on a watchlist and deport him... Oh, sorry, we've moved on to arming the country instead now haven't we. As you were.

No worries at all, always happy to help. The only real thing to be weary of on DW is the fanboys. Certain people will always swear by a certain brand, no matter what the question actually is, be weary of over-hyped new products/manufacturers that are very much just the latest fad and you'll be fine. Broke and surrounded by detailing gear, but fine!

Wait... there's an alternative to this?!?!

It's a slippery (and expensive!) slope, that. Believe me.

Instead we could have some form of state funded group, a force if you like, whose sole job it is to enforce laws. Laws like not driving without insurance, for example, thus reducing the number of unlawful drivers on the road and with it, risk to insurance companies. I know, I'm a dreamer.

MPS4 for 18s, MPS4S for 19s. [/Dan]

Snow foam lance, pressure washer (C110 will do you just fine, maybe look into a 15 metre hose from Direct Hoses though, saves lugging to washer around the car!) BH Autofoam, a good was mitt with the 2 bucket method to wash followed by Auto Finesse Tripple and wax. Maybe look into a decent tar remover and fallout remover later on, but there's little need for much more for now.

In that case I'd replace the polish and White Diamond for a good AIO product - AF Tripple is very good, Rejuvinate has a bit more cut and less filler so choice would be dependant on how much correction you're after really. If your car is currently in need of a lot of correction, you're best off getting it polished by a professional and investing in safe wash techniques rather than polish. That and White Diamond should see you good for a while.

Yeah, sorry, now I've stepped down from my soapbox I can see that's what you were saying from the outset. I think I've demonstrated it's more than just a gimmick, but appreciate that the cost doesn't necessarily make the best option for everyone depending on your level of interest in detailing.

That's exactly what it's for, it's a pre-wash after all. The point is not to save time or money per se, but rather reduce/eliminate the damage you'll do by rubbing larger quantities of loose grit and debris across the paintwork. It's about the car being cleaner before the contact wash, not after. A good pre-wash is virtually essential unless you want to be polishing the paintwork every 2/3 months or you wash the car every time there's the slightest hint of traffic film and/or dust touching the car, much less settling on it. A "quick rinse" simply doesn't remove anywhere near the same amount of dirt as a proper pre-wash when used correctly - as demonstrated here; the sections that were merely rinsed are visibly dirtier all round.

Good choices of products there. I've been using a Nilfisk C110 for years and it's never let me down. The C130 with a proper foam lance will serve you well. Bilt Hamber is one of the best foams you can buy, so again good choice. White Diamond/Black Hole are both very good filler glazes when combined with a carnauba wax. One question, which BH wax are you using, specifically? Best polish will be determined by whether you're working by hand or machine, what you're attempting to achieve and budget, mainly. Assuming you'll be working by hand (as you haven't mentioned a machine polisher), I'd recommend Scholl S20 & S30+ for two stage polishing on tangerine and/or crimson Lake Country pads. That little lot should serve you as well as you'll do by hand.

Sorry, I'm intrigued by this... what exactly do you expect snow foam to do?

Admiral are entirely pointless for a modified car, they will only return to standard and will not replace any modifications at all. They will however charge you for the privilege of not doing so though, which is nice of them.

Or to make it more relatable; A leader will lead a presentation. A manager will tell you to lead a presentation and then sit a watch you do it.

"Hacking" is a little bit different to "modifying" though, isn't it. I still think you should go down the whole Tron route with the aesthetics though...

Sorry if I'm being a little naive here, but is there much in the way non-cosmetic modifications available for Teslas? Not talking about FI Air BBK Can also hack the s/w to boost performance. Fair enough, consider me educated. Not sure if I'm impressed that someone's bothered to develop such things or just worried though. After all I thought all Teslas did everything of ever from the factory. PS, disappointed about the lack of FI options.

Sorry if I'm being a little naive here, but is there much in the way non-cosmetic modifications available for Teslas? I think you should stick scissor doors on the front, massive wheels with tiny tyres on, slam it to the deck and neons everywhere. You can't make it look much worse after all.

Also, just noticed... Current preference is Car Chem Revolt. I'll be doing a comparison between a few shortly - I was hoping to do it this weekend, weather permitting, until I realised I don't have any Iron X. I may do it anyway though. .... it's taken more than 2 years (and 6 pages) to conduct this bloody fallout remover test and I'm still not done yet!

Oh, what, you wanted "after" pictures? Fine! Just remember that I've not polished this at all, there's marring, birds**t etching on the bonnet and even water-spots all over the place. I just wanted to get something on the unprotected paint... especially as the local birds have been using my car as target practice of late. B*****ds! A bit that I f***ed up by the 350Z badge. Should provide a nice reference point to visibly see how long CanCoat lasts though, so there's that. That concludes the shiny. And now for the beads. Actual, real beads this time an' all. And after a 200 mile trip in both wet and dry, so this is technically on a dirty car... That is all.

Gyeon Q2 CanCoat then. The new one. That's the new, new, new, new one (I think...). The one with the pump action spray heads rather than the aerosol version. This one; If you've read this thread and have a good memory you'll know that I tried the aerosol version. For the most part, I liked the results and the application wasn't too bad but it did suffer badly from clogging and wasted product. This version is the latest attempt to resolve that. As you can see it comes with two removable pump action spray heads, some instructions to keep them working, a bottle of CanCoat (really should be renamed now IMO) with a proper lid and even it's own cloth. Instructions are quite straight forward; There are two things in the box that I didn't use at all. Firstly, I didn't use the cloth. Largely because I used other cloths (800gsm edgeless jobbies if you must know) but also because I didn't use this cloth. I applied three coats - instructions are to leave at least 1 hour between coats, I left several more because life kept getting in the way. And by life I mean doughnuts. Because doughnuts. Have you hard about doughnuts? They're very distracting. Doughnuts! Anyway... The other thing I didn't use was the second spray head. I intentionally used the same spray head each time. Now remember the doughnuts? We're talking 23 and 16 hours between coats. As above, CanCoat cures fully in 24 hours, so if any clogging were to occur, I'd expect it to be evident by the second coat, let alone the third. I am glad to announce that by following the instructions, there was absolutely no clogging at all. All I had to do was run some warm water through the spray head (largely by sticking the pick-up tube in some hot water and pumping the spray head a few times until I was bored and/or satisfied that it was washed out properly. So that resolves one issue with the original CanCoat. The other issue being wasted product. With a pump action spray head, it's much, much easier to minimise this. The product is still atomised, so if you hold the cloth too close there's still some fallout that "bounces" off the cloth so to speak but conversely if you hold it too far away the spray pattern dictates that an amount will miss the cloth entirely. You have to be really special not to quickly get to grips with that though. The other potential flaw is how much product to load the cloth with - actually no different to any other product though, in fairness - but again with good lighting (and good lighting is essential!) it's fairly obviously when you're using too much product as you spread it over the desired area. I found 2-3 pumps was more than sufficient for the areas I was doing, but no more than 4-5 would be needed to treat an entire door panel or half a bonnet in one go. It's just as easy to use as the aerosol version, it spreads quite far and despite being a touch grabby when it reaches near 90 seconds before buffing, it's still remarkably easy to buff - you just have to ensure that you're getting a good streak-free finish before moving on but I found an initial quick once over with the buffing cloth followed by a more thorough and meticulous going over virtually guarantees a streak-free finish. I say virtually because I missed a bit on overlapping sections because I was rushing and because the lighting wasn't good enough frankly. As usual I'd recommend against using this outside where you can't control the environment and certainly not in direct sunlight as it will reduce working time significantly. Working time in the shade on a cool panel is a good few minutes, which is ideal for getting a great finish, so reducing this is just asking for trouble. In terms of finish, like any glass coating, CanCoat adds tremendous amounts of gloss and really helps to show off the flake in metallics. Once cured, it's also exceptionally slick to the touch and as I'd come to expect from Gyeon and from coatings, the beading is just something else. Oh and the self-cleaning is pretty damn epic too; after the 200 mile return leg there were further bug casualties. The evidence of which have been almost entirely removed by nothing more than a bit rainfall during and after the journey. No need for foam and/or citrus cleaner (which is just as well because I've run out of the latter). In summary; CanCoat is now the product it was always meant to be. It is the easiest "proper" coating available and I now wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone.

Aside from turning wheels (and driveways...) purple, I also did some stuff to the rest of the car. This was the first clean I've done since having some paint thrown at it and my time ended up being even more limited than the limited time I intended to spend on it. As a result, I didn't get to do half the stuff I wanted to but the main focus of this was primarily to lay down some protection on the paintwork, especially the fresh paint and to tidy up the interior that had gotten a bit dirty & dusty whilst in the body shop. It also gave me a chance to become somewhat more acquainted with the work carried out on the car. For those who care; the quarter panel and rear bumper section that they took their time on is almost perfect - the colour match is absolutely spot on and there's no visible indication of where their work ends and the original paint continues. There's just one small remark on the paintwork there, and that is that there is minor marring where it's not been perfectly polished - still considerably better than some brand spanking new cars I've seen mind you, and it's nothing more than I'd expect after a few washes anyway so minor was it. The front bumper however is slightly different. This was rushed somewhat due to a "miscommunication" and it shows in the result. Again, the colour match is spot on and the blending into the existing paint is also perfect (wings and bonnet were also done, and all three panels are the same as the rear section - i.e. minor marring but nothing more than that. Under the bonnet, there are localised areas of over-spray though). Just on the front bumper though, there's several small areas of minor orange peel to go with the marring. It's nothing I can't sort out myself, given the time, though and even with this it's still considerably better than it was before. If I'm honest, the defects are so insignificant that the vast majority of people wouldn't ever notice, it's just because I'm such a perfectionist and my hobby just happens to be detailing that I've picked up on it. It does mean I'll have to break out the machine polisher though, so I may actually have to make the decision between the Flex or the Rupes to upgrade to now. TL;DR - the paintwork I had done is very good but not quite perfect and I'm trying to justify a new machine polisher as a result. Anyway, for the spring clean, the process was; Snow foamed with the remaining Car Chem Snow Foam in the bottle. Wheels washed with shampoo & wheel woolies. Wheels decontaminated. Bug splatter removed with Car Chem Citrus Cleaner (front bumper only - because baked on bug carcasses on unprotected paint is not a good combination, everywhere else the snow foam was enough to remove). Snow foamed again with Gyeon Foam. Wash - 2 bucket method, Microfibre Madness Incredipad & Car Chem Shampoo (Detailing World Awards limited edition jobbie, for those interested). Clayed - CarPro Clay Cloth with the aforementioned Car Chem shampoo and Gyeon Foam as lube. Left to dry. Wipe down with Gyeon Prep. 3 coats of Gyeon CanCoat. Tyres dressed with Gyeon Tire (sic). Glass cleaned inside & out with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner, Maguires Glass Cleaner. Glass then treated to Gyeon View. Interior was wiped down with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner Nanolex Interior Cleaner and dash dressed with "SuperStu lucky dip â„¢" winner... er... something. I've forgotten now. Seats, gear knob & steering wheel cleaned with Dr Leather Wipes. Seats protected with Gyeon Leather Coat. Another TL;DR - I cleaned stuff. PICTURES!! Started off with this; Then snow foaming happened... I think this is the first round, so Car Chem Snow Foam. After nothing more than foam and a rinse, this was the state of the wheels; Then the Wheel Woolies and shampoo came out to play, leaving this; As you can see there's a bit of beading left but the water is still sheeting off very well, so I'm pretty happy that the GTechniq C5 applied a year ago is still going. This sheeting only got better with each stage of the clean (and was still exceptionally impressive after the fallout removers), as such I've not added any further protection to the wheels this time round. Then I stopped taking pictures for a while because... well I just didn't want to frankly. As I mentioned though, this time round I opted for Gyeon CanCoat for the LSP. This is primarily because wanted some good protection laid down, but also because I wanted a fair amount on gloss without the time (or inclination) to polish (because I was being lazy) and also because I wanted to try the newest delivery method for CanCoat. So with that in mind, here's a brief interlude for a review...

It doesn't but whatever keeps you happy! Modern leather does not need 'oils' to moisturize it. It's lacquer topcoated from the factory. The main cause of cracking is failure to keep it clean and sundamage Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk At least you saved me from saying it (again)

Hah, don't tempt me. Any clean is better than no clean, and there's a perfect little tough patch you can play with I'm not sure I want to play with your tough patch...

I volunteer as tribute. Deal, drop your car off for the day and I'll clean sections of a seat to varying degrees for you.

Do you have any leather cleaner comparisons in your test thread? I don't think so, no. At least I don't recall doing one. I do have a number of cleaners in my arsenal, if I ever come across a suitably filthy leather interior to demonstrate on I will do though. On the topic of conditioners, anything produced after the mid-ninties is top coated so conditioners actually do more harm than good; they never reach the leather they're designed to condition but rather sit on the top coat attracting/trapping dirt. Don't use conditioners on modern leather, please. Leather manufactured before the mid-ninties will benefit from conditioning from time to time though. As I understood it (and this is based on reading from 2001 when sorting my zed leather out so memory could be hazy) that the top coat only applied to cream based conditioners and that water/liquid based conditioners will penetrate the top coat and hydrate the leather? You could well be right, but off the top of my head I couldn't name a water-based conditioner. All the ones I can think of are cream-based and designed specifically for vintage leather... except AutoGlym which is designed to part you with your money.