ilogikal1

Always pander to lazy... it helps drive Ricey's business and then maybe he can start paying me for all that product testing I do for him.

Worked wonders on my ST170 seats. Loved the end result. Cheap Ford tat, what more can I say? Feel free to use it if you wish, but it's just an expensive way to harm your upholstery.

Kinda like febreezing dirty boxers but yeah! Kinda like that, except it actually works. And removes the smell, which was the question. Now if he wanted to clean the interior then your advice would almost be spot on, but people are lazy and I was just catering for them.

Also, never use leather conditioner on "modern" leather (as in anything post-1995), it's all top coated so conditioner just sits on top trapping dirt and grit causing more problems than it could ever solve even if it did reach the leather.

Or just use Valet Pro Odour Enzyme Eater. Spray on all fabrics, leave to dry. Repeat if necessary. Job jobbed.

Especially as it's been proven not to work. Ever.

It depends on the car and how the airflow is designed. The airflow is usually carefully considered and designed in the rather expensive R&D process, cutting holes in places will disrupt that. Whether it's a positive or a negative disruption depends on the design. It's not just a case of adding vents and it'll be better, in certain cases adding vents actually increases under bonnet temps as the air no longer flows where it was designed to as efficiently as it needs to. Don't just assume that because x variant of said model has vents therefore copy and paste is fine, it'll depend entirely on what other changes have been made to affect the air flow.

Do share... Sworn to secrecy................ Cool story. Feel free not to tell another...

I'd hasten to add that Adrian also ignored every word of advice put forward by Dan before buying his. Just something to consider when Dan does find this thread.

If you're lucky they might actually deliver it before Christmas... probably not this Christmas though. (They're really good at doing these offers y'know [/sarcasm])

Sounds like you've heard this one before, Stu

Does anyone actually know that it doesn't have a tracker? They are remarkably easy to circumvent after all.

It's not seen the inside of a garage in about 6 months!

Yes, they've currently got C5 on them.

Doesn't mean they're not a waste of money though.

Just to clarify a few things here; Suds mean nothing. A shampoo should primarily clean and ideally be well lubricated, neither of these things are effected by how many bubbles it produces. 2 buckets is a must. Grit guards are a waste of money and encourage poor wash technique. If you're using more than the two 2 inches of water, you're technique can be improved and grit doesn't float. Bathe+ isn't very sudsy. You'll get a bit whilst filling the bucket but they tend to have gone by time you start washing the car; it is one of the best shampoos available. If you want a shampoo that cleans well, Bathe+ is awesome. Bathe is equally as good without the added protection. Car Chem Shampoo is just as good. If you want a shampoo that lubricates well, Bathe+ is awesome. Bathe is equally as good without the added protection. Car Chem Shampoo is just as good. If you want something that produces a lot of bubbles, Mr Matey is pretty good at that... Car Chem Shampoo is alright too. Your choice.

Nothing but water used here.

There aren't any official resellers, UK or Stateside. Larry is the only official seller of his products and shipping is a set price.

Don't bother with a kit, you've already got the polish so just by wet & dry paper instead. If the swirls are deep enough, you'll need to wet sand them out. How deep they are will depend on what grade you start with but you want to work your way down to at least 3000 grit before going back to polishing again. Your starting grade will probably be trial and error until you get to the scratches, but you don't want to go any courser than you need to, to get them out. Buy a variety of grades from Halfrauds, start with the lowest grade and work up until the scratches start to look better. You'll probably need to go to a detailing place for 3000 grit though, I doubt Halfrauds will do anything that fine. Then you'll need to re-seal them otherwise they've suffer UV damage again in a very short time.

That's not difficult, Iron X is c**p!! See. And see.

Could it be waterspotting from the beading then? If that's the case a QD should fix. Or was it definitely caused by the product? I don't recall experiencing or hearing of product causing this issue (although I can picture it now, thanks) so I'm not really sure what to suggest other than giving it another shot and see if it happens again. If it does, Jay over at Bouncer's would definitely offer some good advice if you were to let him know you're having issues.

So I may have been thinking of Juicy Details Interior Cleaner. Which actually is bright pink, smells of strawberries and is completely irrelevant to this discussion entirely. As you were I really can't remember if I've even tried FAB now...

Have you got pictures of the "spots"? I'm finding it difficult to imagine what you're experiencing which makes it a bit difficult to offer opinions or advice. It's difficult to oversupply products like this unless you let the unrinsed product dry on the panel really so I doubt that's the cause. Regarding the overspray on the windscreen, try water first. I'd suggest physical contact may be required to shift as it will have dried but a normal wash followed by a thorough rinse should be enough to shift it, failing that then clay would certainly shift it. Not sure that glass cleaner would though, but I've never tried so I could be wrong. It's not designed to adhere to glass so it shouldn't prove to be too stubborn to get off... in theory! If all else fails, these types of products hate alkali products, so use a high concentrate of snow foam to wash the windscreen

Odd, it seems much more than that...

Not anymore, you git!